Polishes with fillers?

EMAES

New member
Which polishes do not contain any fillers? I ask this because back when I used to work at a dealership, we had this detailer outside the company that would take care of polishing.

I remember this particular car he worked on because it had a lot of haze, he did a 1 stage polish and the paint looked perfect, he even showed us the results under pretty good sunlight. No swirls, no nothing. The car came back a week after for a hand wash and after the wash it was the same haze. I think he was using car-brite products. I know, these are commercial products but doing research here, found some 3M polishes that had fillers.



Which polishes can u guys recomend that dont give false results?





:xyxthumbs
 
Ive noticed that some of you guys do an alcohol wipe down? is this to remove any fillers/waxes? Is it just regular alcohol or is it an special product they sell to clean the surface?
 
EMAES said:
Ive noticed that some of you guys do an alcohol wipe down? is this to remove any fillers/waxes? Is it just regular alcohol or is it an special product they sell to clean the surface?

50/50 rubbing alcohol mix and water. works fine...
 
The new 3M Ultrafina is supposed to be filler-free I bought 1Z High Gloss that I instead and I see no evidence of filling. Some other 3M stuff is filler-free, their old PI-III stuff (which I still use) didn't have fillers.
 
EMAES said:
Which polishes do not contain any fillers? I ask this because back when I used to work at a dealership, we had this detailer outside the company that would take care of polishing.

I remember this particular car he worked on because it had a lot of haze, he did a 1 stage polish and the paint looked perfect, he even showed us the results under pretty good sunlight. No swirls, no nothing. The car came back a week after for a hand wash and after the wash it was the same haze. I think he was using car-brite products. I know, these are commercial products but doing research here, found some 3M polishes that had fillers.



Which polishes can u guys recomend that dont give false results?





:xyxthumbs





Menzerna, Prima Cut, Swirl and Finish, Driven to Perfection Finish Restorer, Sonus SFX 1 to 2

High Temp Extreme Power cut

Don't understimate Prima's power, it can outdo Menzerna IP and SIP on some paints for scratch removal
 
Menzerna pure polishes are all filler free.



The only one Menzerna has in the line that will fill is the glaze.



And don't get caught-up in some internet theory that Menzerna uses fillers or can "swell paint". This was some very poor way of discrediting Menzerna for what it is, one of the finest polishes produced. Yes, there are boutique polishes and other top level polishes and those are fine as well, it's just you have to research what's in them, that's all.



Menzerna does however have a bit more oil in it used for lubrication and for the abrasives to properly be suspended in. For sealants, I find it becomes more the norm to do a IPA wipedown or other way to remove the oils left behind to make sure I have the best finish prior to any sealant.



If I'm waxing, it doesn't matter, go straight to wax.



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Menzerna pure polishes are all filler free.



Whether or not Menzerna has "fillers" a by product of using it is that it can (and will fill) Wiping with alcohol will not always remove the oils that act to fill.



I was lucky enough to have Pats300ZX down in Orlando last week. We polished a section of a Porsche will SIP and 106ff. It was perfect, even after wiping it off. I mean it looked perfect.



I grabbed some prep-sol (under the halegons in front of Pat) and wiped up and down. Sure enough if RIDS that where going left to right appeared infront of both of us.
 
Sorry, but Menzerna does not fill... Never has never will. If you have THAT much oil where you assume "filling", you did not fully break down the polish and finished it too wet. What you have is the byproduct of the polishing, not a "filler" oil.



This is the biggest misconception on Menzerna. Too many people use it with a PC when it's really for rotary. The friction/heat generated by a rotary properly breaks down Menzerna. A PC cannot fully break it down correctly, although it works in removing marring, swirls etc, it's the oils used in the suspension and partly the lubrication oil by-product you'll see or experience when use with a PC. The action of the rotary was also taken into consideration when these polishes were made. The action of a PC does not fully take advantage of Menzerna.



Yes you can and will see results with Menzerna via PC, but to really utilize the way it works is to use a rotary and the proper pads. Menzerna made most of these for specific pads and speeds. Not following the way they were designed for can impact the way they perform.



Just as 3M has both Hand and Machine Polishes, and are more clear as to application and use, Menzerna is in a very grey area in the USA. However, their wood polishes are used quite often and are highly regarded as the best. Most piano mfg's use Menzerna as well as guitar mfgs. They also make one polish for high gloss polyester coatings seen on Italian furniture. Same for precious metals/jewelry, they make solid bars and other materials for this as well.



Since most of the Menzerna that is used out in "the field" was really designed for in house manufacturing under OEM controls. Menzerna does make bodyshop level polishes and "detailing" polishes, but no one really uses these formulas. What most of us use is for Fresh Paint.



The Repair or Detail line includes Speedcut, Burnishing Cream and Lumaglo Cream. IP and FP have a cross-over formula for Repair/Detail line as well.



So do not confuse leftover/byproduct oil as "filler" type oil when using Menzerna. It just does not fill when use correctly.



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski said:
Sorry, but Menzerna does not fill... Never has never will. If you have THAT much oil where you assume "filling", you did not fully break down the polish and finished it too wet. What you have is the byproduct of the polishing, not a "filler" oil.



This is the biggest misconception on Menzerna. Too many people use it with a PC when it's really for rotary. The friction/heat generated by a rotary properly breaks down Menzerna. A PC cannot fully break it down correctly, although it works in removing marring, swirls etc, it's the oils used in the suspension and partly the lubrication oil by-product you'll see or experience when use with a PC. The action of the rotary was also taken into consideration when these polishes were made. The action of a PC does not fully take advantage of Menzerna.



Yes you can and will see results with Menzerna via PC, but to really utilize the way it works is to use a rotary and the proper pads. Menzerna made most of these for specific pads and speeds. Not following the way they were designed for can impact the way they perform.



Just as 3M has both Hand and Machine Polishes, and are more clear as to application and use, Menzerna is in a very grey area in the USA. However, their wood polishes are used quite often and are highly regarded as the best. Most piano mfg's use Menzerna as well as guitar mfgs. They also make one polish for high gloss polyester coatings seen on Italian furniture. Same for precious metals/jewelry, they make solid bars and other materials for this as well.



Since most of the Menzerna that is used out in "the field" was really designed for in house manufacturing under OEM controls. Menzerna does make bodyshop level polishes and "detailing" polishes, but no one really uses these formulas. What most of us use is for Fresh Paint.



The Repair or Detail line includes Speedcut, Burnishing Cream and Lumaglo Cream. IP and FP have a cross-over formula for Repair/Detail line as well.



So do not confuse leftover/byproduct oil as "filler" type oil when using Menzerna. It just does not fill when use correctly.



Regards,

Deanski





Sorry but I disagree and will go so far as to say you are incorrect. I worked 106ff and SIP correctly. You can ask Pats300ZX. Both products where worked until "flash" and beyond.



When wiped with alcohol...perfect



When wiped with prep-sol, there was a return of light swirling and some RIDS...



Also, heat is not needed (and infact unwanted)....



I will agree that Menzerna does not have "fillers" (like kailon clay) but the lubricants can be very stubborn to remove. It can lead people to believe the paint is perfect when it is infact not (as we have seen by some video's of people using poor techniques and still getting amazing results).



I have found that even wiping with alochol (unless un-dilluted, strong 91 percent) can have a difficult time removing the lubricants in the polish. I would even disagree that it is all about user error as well. I have seen the product "fill" or mask under several different conditions.



Although I use 106 and SIP often, I have found that you need to finish 106ff with a finish pad (on a rotary) and using a solvent like Prep-Sol is the only way to really inspect your work throughly.



Like you said they are production polishes, and designed for a "cold" (controlled) enviroment. I would not be suprised to learn the climate of Florida has something do with the problem, but I know Ryan (rydawg) as has similar problems in the North East as well?
 
My background with Menzerna goes back a very long time, before Menzerna even had an entity in the USA. I was introduced to this line of products (non-Ceramiclear obviously) by an old time finish expert that works on Ferrari for a dealer in Greenwich, CT long ago. He had someone import these polishes for him when he had the chance to use these. He was also once involved in fine metals prior so knows the Menzerna polishes well.



You're still missing the point. These are spot polishes for fresh paint that has been shot with Ceramiclear.



What I will do at this point is have a contact that I have a Menzerna Germany provide a bit more insight as to first why these polishes were developed, which finishes they work with and proper technique.



Application and amounts have a driving force on how these polishes perform.



Since these are used in a production line environment, and used on fresh paint which differs from cured paint, results are quite different.



What you are seeing are the oils left behind for lubrication and suspension. Although they seem to "fill" they do not and nor is it's intent to "fill" when the polish has been reduced. It just lays on top of any finish, perfect or not.



As for heat/friction, it is a needed effect to properly make the abrasives and oil break down for a clean finish. Lack of heat and friction (friction generates heat), is where most of the problem stems from this oil left behind when using Menzerna.



Be aware that you are still using 106FF improperly. You did NOT use it on Ceramiclear finish which was the intention of this polish and why it has so much oil to provide lubrication for longer working time while the abrasives cut down the sanding marks on a Ceramiclear finish.



Just as 3M Ultrafina finishes wet, you have some oils left which with that product, you do not break down dry, but wet and wipe off. This too is used for "hard clearcoats".



You're better off with FP or any of the non-Ceramiclear for now. Just don't use the re-branded Menzerna.



If you want another way to use Menzerna, you should try some of the polishes used for wood polyester finishes. These are for soft clears done on wood, and leave a nice finish. PO91E works very well.



Deanski
 
You can also try this:



Shoot some Glasurit HS Clear 923-45 over a test fender or the PPG equivelent for Ceramiclear then polish it with 106FF and see what happens. It will be different.



Deanski
 
Also, let me bring this past statement back into the forground as it needs to be read and understood:





"I alway appreciate the interest in Menzerna professional products and the discussion regarding use and results. Interesting how an inanimate polish can develop a personality and become like a soap opera actor. Do we really believe that it "hides" or "deceives" when used? I'm sure that someone will correct me and tell me that I'm taking it out of context, but let's not make too much of this or any other polish.



Once again, for the record, Menzerna does not contain fillers. Oil cannot hide defects, but can actually enhance defects. Try washing down your next car with a mineral oil bath and deliver it to your customer and see if they are satisfied with the results of your paint correction! The oil is for lubrication and to reduce the heat generated from polishing.



The products that are being discussed were developed for commercial and industrial applications such as in an automobile assembly plant. The people that are actually using the Menzerna products are hourly factory worker and prefer products that are simple and easy to use that provide fast, assembly-line speed results. The learning curve for these working is quite short even though they generally have experience working with polish. They have NO patience trying to make a product work if it is not performing within 2 minutes. If Menzerna were as finicky as some suggest, you can be sure that the workers would guarantee it to fail on the production line and it would be replaced. Of course, if it were not used correctly, meaning wrong pad, wrong machine, wrong speed, insufficient time, incorrect pressure, etc then it would not provide the expected excellent results. Same goes in the detailing environment.



So to review once again (and I'm sure many times in the future!), no fillers, no deception, no kidding.



Hope this helps."



Jeff Silver

Menzerna USA




Deanski
 
Deanski said:
My background with Menzerna goes back a very long time, before Menzerna even had an entity in the USA. I was introduced to this line of products (non-Ceramiclear obviously) by an old time finish expert that works on Ferrari for a dealer in Greenwich, CT long ago. He had someone import these polishes for him when he had the chance to use these. He was also once involved in fine metals prior so knows the Menzerna polishes well.



You're still missing the point. These are spot polishes for fresh paint that has been shot with Ceramiclear.



What I will do at this point is have a contact that I have a Menzerna Germany provide a bit more insight as to first why these polishes were developed, which finishes they work with and proper technique.



Application and amounts have a driving force on how these polishes perform.



Since these are used in a production line environment, and used on fresh paint which differs from cured paint, results are quite different.



What you are seeing are the oils left behind for lubrication and suspension. Although they seem to "fill" they do not and nor is it's intent to "fill" when the polish has been reduced. It just lays on top of any finish, perfect or not.



As for heat/friction, it is a needed effect to properly make the abrasives and oil break down for a clean finish. Lack of heat and friction (friction generates heat), is where most of the problem stems from this oil left behind when using Menzerna.



Be aware that you are still using 106FF improperly. You did NOT use it on Ceramiclear finish which was the intention of this polish and why it has so much oil to provide lubrication for longer working time while the abrasives cut down the sanding marks on a Ceramiclear finish.



Just as 3M Ultrafina finishes wet, you have some oils left which with that product, you do not break down dry, but wet and wipe off. This too is used for "hard clearcoats".



You're better off with FP or any of the non-Ceramiclear for now. Just don't use the re-branded Menzerna.



If you want another way to use Menzerna, you should try some of the polishes used for wood polyester finishes. These are for soft clears done on wood, and leave a nice finish. PO91E works very well.



Deanski



So we agree. I have been telling people the same story for ever, so I agree with your background on the polishes...



But here is where we differ.



If something "fills" it fills, period. Again, I conceed that this is not the intention of the polish, but rather a side effect of taking a polish out of a controlled enviroment and placing it in a dynamic enviroment with a uncountable number of variables.



Whether or not it fills by design or not isn't important. What is important (as you stated) is that anytime this polish is not being used in a specific enviroment on PPG CC paint, you are using the polish against its intention and are running the risk of having defects show back up. Unfortunately, since, to my knoweldge, nobody here works for Benz, we are all using the polish incorrectly.



I have agreed, also, that it is the carrier or lubricants in the polish that act "mask" or fill the defects. 106ff can be amazingly reslient or stubborn when it comes to removing all of the carrier oils. This is why I recommend using Prep-Sol (as opposed to alochol) to remove the carrier from the paint and to fully inspect your work.



Also, I have used it on many Cermiclear finishes, and it has (for the most part) performed flawlessly.



I have heard from people in Europe that it is common knowledge that 106ff uses a parffin based wax as a lubricant? Maybe you can verify this as well (which would explain a lot of the problems)?



So while I agree with Jeff and you and everybody who says Menzerna isn't designed to fill, it still does. I understand how it fills and I understand that is because it is production polish being used "wrong" by everybody except Benz.



My beef with Jeff Silver is he won't admit this though. Many people have complained about having defects return, yet he claims it won't happen. On one hand he states that it doesn't have fillers and that the production people use it with no problem, but he completely ignores the fact that his customers (unless he is exporting it to Mercedes Benz) don't use it in the enviroment it is designed for. Instead of defending a product with the obvious potential for problems, why doesn't he steer them in the direction of another polish?



Basically he has called about 30 of us who have experienced "filling" (for whatever reason) liars and refuses to even acknoweldge the issue. Then it is up to people like you and I to figure out why this happens and under what circumstances, and how to avoid it.



In my experience, using 106ff (when used as a finishing polish) should ALWAYS be used on a pad with zero mechanical action (to avoid the microscopic damage that pads can instill/pad abrasion). I truely believe (after talking with pad manufactueres) that the lubrication of 106ff can "leech" into pad abrasion (usually 1/10 to 1/100 the depth of a typical microscopic "swirl") and be very difficult to remove with out the use of a solvent.



To avoid this use a finishing pad, work the polish for a long time (60 second or greater) and back the RPM down and burish. If worked for a long enough time with a non-mechanical pad, I have only had one instance of marring return after wiping with prep-sol (which was in front the moderator Pats300ZX). I was actually relieved that he witnessed this so I people can stop thinking I am making this up (or the other 30 people who have commented similar) and we can all work on a solution.



So we agree on a lot of points.



Friction is the end process that breaks down abrasives, heat is an unwanted result of friction. To my knowledge, no abrasive medium will fracture if placed in an oven...
 
The products that are being discussed were developed for commercial and industrial applications such as in an automobile assembly plant. The people that are actually using the Menzerna products are hourly factory worker and prefer products that are simple and easy to use that provide fast, assembly-line speed results. The learning curve for these working is quite short even though they generally have experience working with polish. They have NO patience trying to make a product work if it is not performing within 2 minutes. If Menzerna were as finicky as some suggest, you can be sure that the workers would guarantee it to fail on the production line and it would be replaced. Of course, if it were not used correctly, meaning wrong pad, wrong machine, wrong speed, insufficient time, incorrect pressure, etc then it would not provide the expected excellent results. Same goes in the detailing environment.



Typical Jeff Silver BS IMO.



Read what he says...



If the products are used incorrectly, you can have issues. The only correct way to use them is in a specific enviroment.



Then why does he keep selling them to the general consumer how cannot use them properly, because we cannot replicate the exact standards to which these products are designed to work.
 
I've tried to address the issue with Menzerna by sending sample batches back to Germany, but here's the "German philosophy" is that we are not using this specific polish for Ceramiclear PPG finishes, therfore we are wrong in using the polish on soft clears. Standard answer from a manufacture who designs a product strictly for a specific finish and fresh paint in a production environment.



It does not matter what Jeff Silver or whomever may sell a product, it's up to the person using the product for its intended purpose. If I go and use it on something other than what it was designed for, then what am I supposed to do? Bash the product? Point fingers that a product does not work correctly? Nope, I was the one that did this, not the company or the person who sells it. So why are some having issues coming to grip with this? No matter who sells it, or how someone may claim to use it in the way it was not designed to do, if you have a issue with it why make claims or statements that do not fit it's intended use?



Therefore the answer I always get back in return is to use FP as opposed to any of the Ceramiclear.



BTW, some of the jewelry precious metal polish in bar format work really well for chrome and other soft metals. PITA to use, but on a cotton wheel when it's applied to the wheel and you take a part of chrome to it, it's insane how bright it can get. But who's got time to first remove a chrome tailpipe etc. Simpler products out there just for this. I use Flitz often.



Another odd issue I hear in Porsche restoration is the use of Blue Magic and P21S Cleanser mixed for a polish to finish paint with. I know of one PCA member that does this all the time. He will add a small amount of Blue Magic to P21S Cleanser and work the finish. I have to say it does do a good job.



I'm pretty much through trying to explain and assist why some may see or have problems. There's no point in explaining if some have made up their mind on why things work they way they do.



One day, I'll get the results back from Menzerna, but I can already hear the answer once again. You have to think in German logic on this one guys!



Regards,

Deanski
 
Deanski said:
I've tried to address the issue with Menzerna by sending sample batches back to Germany, but here's the "German philosophy" is that we are not using this specific polish for Ceramiclear PPG finishes, therfore we are wrong in using the polish on soft clears. Standard answer from a manufacture who designs a product strictly for a specific finish and fresh paint in a production environment.



It does not matter what Jeff Silver or whomever may sell a product, it's up to the person using the product for its intended purpose. If I go and use it on something other than what it was designed for, then what am I supposed to do? Bash the product? Point fingers that a product does not work correctly? Nope, I was the one that did this, not the company or the person who sells it. So why are some having issues coming to grip with this? No matter who sells it, or how someone may claim to use it in the way it was not designed to do, if you have a issue with it why make claims or statements that do not fit it's intended use?

Therefore the answer I always get back in return is to use FP as opposed to any of the Ceramiclear.



BTW, some of the jewelry precious metal polish in bar format work really well for chrome and other soft metals. PITA to use, but on a cotton wheel when it's applied to the wheel and you take a part of chrome to it, it's insane how bright it can get. But who's got time to first remove a chrome tailpipe etc. Simpler products out there just for this. I use Flitz often.



Another odd issue I hear in Porsche restoration is the use of Blue Magic and P21S Cleanser mixed for a polish to finish paint with. I know of one PCA member that does this all the time. He will add a small amount of Blue Magic to P21S Cleanser and work the finish. I have to say it does do a good job.



I'm pretty much through trying to explain and assist why some may see or have problems. There's no point in explaining if some have made up their mind on why things work they way they do.



One day, I'll get the results back from Menzerna, but I can already hear the answer once again. You have to think in German logic on this one guys!



Regards,

Deanski



I disagree on this (the bold). I think that if somebody is going to sell a product to a market other then its intented use, then they need to be prepared to answer the questions or help with any compliants (instead of denying them).



I for one appericate all the research that you have done and am saddened that we have both reached similar conclusions.



I will also continue to use SIP as it is one of the best medium polishes out there (when it doesn't fight back). 106ff has been limited to harder paints, but does look amazing when it plays nice as well.



I guess the moral of the story is be careful with the cermaclear polishes. They are not designed for us and you do run the risk of having problems if you use it (unless you work in a specific enviroment).



My suggestion is use a finishing pad (by rotary) and wipe with a solvent to ensure your work is true.
 
This is an excellent write up by both of you and I for one am thankfull.



I use a lot of Menz for polishing and have even done 50/50 wipes with great results, but I am now starting to wonder how many of those cars I've perfected are back to swirls 2-3 weeks later. I have no real way of knowing since I don't see the cars each week.....



I was using 91% alcohol, but I think I'm going to get my hands on some prepsol so I can know the truth.



Problem is I used Menz IP on my truck to remove defects and for the last year they have not come back with all the washing I've done so I assume they are gone and not covered up, I make that same assumption with my clients cars as well......but now I'm nervous cause I promise those clients perminent removal for what they pay and not a cover up.....



So back to the origional question? what polishes offer true swirl removal correction without hiding??



Josh
 
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