Polish issues

A

airjames

New member
I realize this has been talked about alot, hopefully someone can straighten me out and I'm really lost:(



There's alot of polishes out there that have cleaning and swirl removing agents in them. Those polishes that have the swirl and hairline removing agents, they have a very mild, extrememly fine cutting action. Now I;ve also recently learned that using these polishes over a period of time can cause you to go right through the clearcoat over a period of time of say 4 - 5 yrs down the road. Now, I'm convinved here that most of us like to keep our cars flawless and keep the clearcoat on as long as possible.



I also understand that a clearcoat is so many mm layers thick. For me, 5 yrs down the road I really don't want to go through the clearcoat. Do I expect every mm layer of clearcoat to be there 5 yrs from now, no! But I do expect the majority of it to be there. I go by the rule of thumb, clay, polish and wax twice a yr. With washings 2x's a week and QD'ng after washing. Main question here: I plan on keeping my truck for a good long time, 5+ yrs. Is it ok to use these fine polishing agents twice a yr or should I switch to a pure polish designed only for gloss enhancment?????? Tks everyone



91
 
I like Prowax products. I have some of there P-21 Polish in a gallon size and it has very fine swirl removing agents in it. I still can't wait to try them all out this spring! :up :D



91
 
IMO...only polish when you need to.....



If the paint is good with no swirls and is shiny then why polish.......



I only polish when I have a scratch or other blemish then I only do that area.....



But this is me.......
 
I use Zaino Z1, Z2, Z5 & Z6



Every spring I will use the Z1 "polish-lok" (after claying)



I don't hesitate at all to use Z2 show-car-polish 5-6 times per year. Z2 (to my knowledge) has little "cutting action" and buffs off incredibly easily.



Z5, on the other hand, only gets used whenever swirl marks appear. That could be once per year, or every two years. It has more cutting action than Z2. Z5 is also harder to buff off than Z2.



Z6 after every wash. (QD)
 
I like to polish even when there is no swirls, just because it feeds the paint natural oils, hence, giving it a darker wet look appearence. I really believe that it makes the waxing process alot easier to apply and buff off. I can save the P-21 for when swirls or microscratches appear. If the paint is good and near flawless, then I can use just a pure polish designed for gloss enhancing purposes, like say, Meg #7. That's the only pure polish I can think of.



Another issue while I'm at it here, clay bars. They give off an incredible shine and are easier to use, I just heard this, not actually witnessed it. Recently I purchased my first clay bar from Prowax. I got the Clay Away4, this is the regualar grade clay bar. I'm quite nervous to use it because I don't want to *** up my paint job. Now, I hear there easy to use, ok fine, When you go to clay, I like the QD method rather than the car wash method, just looks easier and less clean up, IMO.. How much QD should you spray on the area to be clayed, i.e,, should you just use the same amount as if you were just doing a qd after you wash the car, or spray alot on???????? Tks everyone



91
 
Luster said:
I use Zaino Z1, Z2, Z5 & Z6



Every spring I will use the Z1 "polish-lok" (after claying)



I don't hesitate at all to use Z2 show-car-polish 5-6 times per year. Z2 (to my knowledge) has little "cutting action" and buffs off incredibly easily.



Z5, on the other hand, only gets used whenever swirl marks appear. That could be once per year, or every two years. It has more cutting action than Z2. Z5 is also harder to buff off than Z2.



Z6 after every wash. (QD)
Click to expand...



Z5 & Z2 do not have any abrasives...they are just sealants...Z5 has fillers to hide swirls not remove them........



HTH
 
F-150_91 said:
I like to polish even when there is no swirls, just because it feeds the paint natural oils, hence, giving it a darker wet look appearence. I really believe that it makes the waxing process alot easier to apply and buff off. I can save the P-21 for when swirls or microscratches appear. If the paint is good and near flawless, then I can use just a pure polish designed for gloss enhancing purposes, like say, Meg #7. That's the only pure polish I can think of.
Click to expand...
You mean you like to glaze your car often right? :p Sorry, I hate picking my Meguiar's Scab, but I can't resist. The use of the word "polish" to describe glaze is Meguiarsese, and paint doesn't need feeding, nourishing, oiling, conditioning, moisturizing, etc, like it's leather or hair. You can probably use a non-cutting glaze like #7, IHG, or Mothers as often as you like though so you're already doing okay. :)

Another issue while I'm at it here, clay bars. They give off an incredible shine and are easier to use, ...(snip).... How much QD should you spray on the area to be clayed, i.e,, should you just use the same amount as if you were just doing a qd after you wash the car, or spray alot on???????? Tks everyone
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Actually clay doesn't really contribute to the shine of the paint at all. Unless the paint is really contaminated to the point it looks different (then maybe you shouldn't be using a clay anway?) claying just cleans bumpy dirt and specks off the surface and can actually leave some marring, which is a secondary reason why people often clay and polish around the same time. So far I've been using only QD too, and you don't need a lot, just enough to ensure you have a film of liquid under your clay at all times. I spray some on then use the clay to spread it as I'm working, being careful not to rub over the paint dry (usually won't happen if the clay is wetted anyway). To avoid it drying out I also keep a spray bottle of water handy. I'd like to try using shampoo solution this summer though because it's cheaper and you can still apply it with a spray bottle.



HTH!
 
First things first; whether you have clearcoat or single stage paint on your car (90 % of todays oem paints are clearcoat) the amount of paint is generally about the same at 1.7 to 2 MILS. 1 MIL is a THOUSANTH OF AN INCH. To understand how thin this is, think about a clear cigarette wrapper, then fold the wrapper over itself (doubled ) THIS IS YOUR PAINT THICKNESS if you have oem paint. This DOES NOT include E coat/primer etc, only the TOP LAYER of paint. Total film build with E-Coat and primer, base color and clearcoat is between 4.5 MILS and 6 MILS generally speaking. Differences depend on make and paint type.

Body shops GENERALLY lay it on a bit thicker because of atomizing reasons at the gun etc. even if they only apply 2 coats (standard) , but you can expect about 2 MILS from them unless you have asked for more coats or been told otherwise.
 
Luster said:
I don't hesitate at all to use Z2 show-car-polish 5-6 times per year. Z2 (to my knowledge) has little "cutting action" and buffs off incredibly easily.



Z5, on the other hand, only gets used whenever swirl marks appear. That could be once per year, or every two years. It has more cutting action than Z2. Z5 is also harder to buff off than Z2.
Click to expand...



Z2 and Z5 do not cut the paint. They do not remove any paint. They work by layering on and filling in the imperfections in your paint.



I think Sal should remove the word polish from his products since they aren't polishes!



You aren't the first person to make the mistake.
 
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