Plan of Attack? Need help from the pros

RGoose18

New member
This is my car:
f6ed1191.jpg

It's a 2000 Acura Integra Type R

My problem is my car has single stage paint. It has some oxidation, waterspotting, and some light overspray. I've tried everything to get this paint looking fresh, but to no avail. Right now I have a PC 7424, SSR 2.5, SSR 1, some zaino sealant, and a few cleaner waxes from Mothers.

My question is, how the hell can I make this cars paint look new?!? When I apply the 2.5 it takes a decent amount of Phoenix Yellow w/ it. I'm afraid to go any further w/ the 2.5 due to damage and nothing I have done so far will touch the oxidation or overspray. In a nutshell, what would you do??? Keep in mind that this is a Factory single stage paint.
 
I prefer to use chemical cleaning products like Pro Polish vs SSR's ...I would also suggest claying the car to get rid of the overspray before polishing in this case so that you are not removing much paint when polishing.
 
Steve's suggestion is right on. Use a chemical cleaner to remove as much of the oxidation as you can. Poorboys Pro polish is a good one esp since you're using a sealant as your last step product.

If you want to find something locally that will do the same thing I've had very good results with Meguiars ColorX and it can be had at any major retailer. Also Klasse AIO is another good one.

Use any of the above with a polishing pad and eventually you should get rid of that oxidation without really removing any paint like the SSR's will do.
 
AudiOn19s said:
Steve's suggestion is right on. Use a chemical cleaner to remove as much of the oxidation as you can. Poorboys Pro polish is a good one esp since you're using a sealant as your last step product.

If you want to find something locally that will do the same thing I've had very good results with Meguiars ColorX and it can be had at any major retailer. Also Klasse AIO is another good one.

Use any of the above with a polishing pad and eventually you should get rid of that oxidation without really removing any paint like the SSR's will do.

Thanks guys, although are there any ill effects of using a chemical cleaner?
 
One more question, out of AIO, PB's, and Color X, which can I see the best results on a Single Stage Paint. I'm kinda tight on cash right now and don't have the money to try all three.

<------Ryan, who has yet to learn how to edit posts
 
I've yet to use Poorboys Pro Polish as it seemed redundant to what I've already got but I have yet to use a Poorboys product that I don't like. I'll probably pick up some pro polish in my next order.

If money is a factor you can pick up ColorX locally at Auto Zone for like $8...while you're at it purchase the Clay Magic clay bar kit and you're right at about $20 total which is about what you'd pay for either of the other products after you pay for shipping from a distributer.

I recently worked on a re-spray'd single stage hood that was badly oxidized and colorX with a polishing pad on the PC wiped out the oxidation right away. It also worked easily by hand as well on my test section.
 
Poorboy said:
I prefer to use chemical cleaning products like Pro Polish vs SSR's
Is this because you are only trying to remove oxidation and not piant? Can explain your reasoning please, thanks.
 
AudiOn19s said:
If money is a factor you can pick up ColorX locally at Auto Zone for like $8...while you're at it purchase the Clay Magic clay bar kit .

Thanks for the tip, although i've already clayed my car a few times w/ both Zaino and Mothers Claybars and they didn't touch the overspray. It's a pinkish overspray, almost looks like it was red at some point and someone did a bad job of cleaning it off. It definitely stained the paint and that comibined w/ the oxidation makes for an ugly picture. I'll try the colorX like you suggested. Thx
 
One more vote for using a paint cleaner first when doing complete prep on paint.............. single stage, or clear-coated finishes.

I think removing oxidation and contaminates using plenty of applicators and towels prior to cutting/leveling/polishing makes sense for many reasons. I prefer "not" to have my polishing pads contaminated with oxidation and other "stuff". Cleaning the paint carefully first eliminates that. Plus, it gives you a better idea of the condition of the paint, and allows you to pick the correct polish a bit easier.

Just my 2 cents though.
 
Probably the easiest way to tell if it is single stage is when polishing your car the pad or towel starts turning the same color as the paint. You are actually rubbing a minute amount of paint (or oxidised paint) off the car.
The difference between the two:
Single stage is a pigmented paint applied as a final coat
Todays Base Coat/ Clear coat systems are applied in two stages:
First the color coat (base) is applied and allowed to flash ... it is very flat or dull looking on its own
Next a urethane clear coat is applied that protects the base and givies it an incredible shine.
Both paint systems have advantages but mostly the BC/CC was developed to address environmental concerns
 
use a wool pad and about any run of the mill buffing compound will not down the pver spray i agree with the other guys dont pollute our foam pads with trash wool it first to get it clean that follow up with a foam pad i used power cut plus from auto magic to do the last bad respray job . or if your not that experianced with a roatary use a milder abrasive and work slower it will come off have a good day
 
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