Pics of my latest work...also need advise

O

oekundar

Member
All,



First I would like to thank you all for the countless threads that you all have created as they have helped me tremendously...well my business is officially registered and will be underway shortly (Dare Detailing)



In practicing, I was working on my mothers car last night (1992/1995 Volvo) and I ran across the worst paint I have ever seen...the hood looked like someone repeatedly took a push broom to it...OVER and OVER....anyways...here are the pic of post wash...pre OC/OP and Poorboy's wax:



Hood1.jpg






Post OC/OP, Poorboy's Wax:



Hood_buffed.jpg




close_up_shot.jpg




whole_hood.jpg




Now....there are still significant scratches on the hood...HERE is where I need your help...I started with an orange LC pad...and ended up really working with a Yellow Pad...and I feel like I didn't do a good enough job...what can I do to get rid of what seems to be YEARS of neglect?



Oh...here is the driver's side mirror before and after:



dull_mirror.jpg




polished_mirror.jpg






Thanks for all your HELP!



O. Ekundare
 
you can do it with a pc no problem,those are somenastey scratches. Remeber like nything it takes practice (i know you dont want to hear that). Next time you go over it with ocor op it will look better. I would just try again, work on your procces and inprove your pc skills. Trust me you can do it
 
A rotary would be faster, for sure. But keep working it with PC...



You don't want to use your Mom's car to develop your rotary skills!



JB
 
Rotary would definitely help in this situation, although the PC is just fine, but be prepared to make multiple passes both in compounding and polishing. You'll have to use a considerable amount of pressure on the head of the PC and move it very slowly to achieve optimum results though, which is very time consuming. Just keep in mind that you will run into these types of cars in the field, so I would use this opportunity to develop your skills with the rotary. Obviously, time is not a major factor, if any with this particular car, but as a pro working on a client's car, time is of the utmost importance along with quality. So, my advice.... go buy yourself a quality buffer (I prefer either Makita or Hitachi) and learn how to use it proficiently.



One more thing... you may find it worthwhile to step up to a more aggressive product/pad combo. From my experience, the products that you are currently using aren't aggressive enough for what you are trying to correct.
 
Calgarydetail/JB/clnfrk.



Thank you so much for your comments...I will certainly be looking at a rotary for jobs such as this....but I will also tackle it again with the PC.



Clnfrk...what would be a more agressive combination to use with the PC? I know OC/OP isn't that aggressive but I was sure the yellow LC pad was as close to an aggressive pad as I could have gotten.
 
Definitely a nice improvement.



Is this your first time working with the PC? I wouldn't run off to try new polishes just yet, just find more vehicles to practice on until you get used to working with the PC and the polishes. Make sure you are performing the work under the worklight as well so you can see all of the paint imperfections.



For compounds, I am really fond of the Hi-Temp line. I have the Extreme Cut, Heavy Cut, Medium Cut, and Light Cut. I've only used the Heavy Cut once, and have never used the extreme cut because the Medium Cut and the Yellow LC pad have removed just about everything I have asked of them. I definitely think you could get that paint swirl-free with the Medium Cut and the LC Yellow pad. However, I don't think this would be any more aggressive than the OC, so practice with it more.
 
oekundar said:
Calgarydetail/JB/clnfrk.



Thank you so much for your comments...I will certainly be looking at a rotary for jobs such as this....but I will also tackle it again with the PC.



Clnfrk...what would be a more agressive combination to use with the PC? I know OC/OP isn't that aggressive but I was sure the yellow LC pad was as close to an aggressive pad as I could have gotten.
Click to expand...



You could step up to OHC and see how that works out for you. I also second the above poster's advice on the Hi Temp line. Although, I haven't personally used any of their products, I have heard and seen nothing but great results with their products. They are definitely next on my product order list.



Also, don't forget the option of wool pads if you need something with an even stronger cut. I don't recommend you practice with these on your mother's car and definitely not on a client's car. Perhaps you can source a scrap body panel from a junkyard and practice on that. Expect a lot of compounding haze if you go this route, which will require finishing down with finer polishes and mild pads. But, I would recommend maybe trying the OHC, Hi Temp Extreme Cut, Menzerna Power Gloss or Meg's #84. There are other countless options, but those are the ones that came to mind.
 
just run two passes of the OC on a yellow, then two of op on a orange, then op on a white, then wax...should be much better...volvo has a really hard clear coat from the ones i have worked on...usually I go with something like menzerna power gloss on a heavy cutting pad, then step down the polish to a light compound with a light cut pad, then a medium polish with a heavy polishing pad and call it done...seems like the light polish pad and light polish do nothing on harder clears...
 
Exactly how are you using the PC? Speed of the PC? Speed of movement across the paint? Pressure? Amount of polish?



Let's see if we can refine your technique first to see if there is room for improvement.
 
Some marring is so deep it cannot be removed safely or at all. With how bad that paint looks i wouldnt doubt that that is the case.
 
Scottwax said:
Exactly how are you using the PC? Speed of the PC? Speed of movement across the paint? Pressure? Amount of polish?



Let's see if we can refine your technique first to see if there is room for improvement.
Click to expand...



My PC is set at 6 and I am applying pressure on the unit through out the whole componding process. I usually start on the drivers side and work from the windshield down towards the bumper using the following motions. Straight down from windshield to bumper...taking it slow as well as doing the figure 8 working in the same direction. i use about a quarter size of compound on about 1/3 of the hood.



Your thoughts?
 
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