imported_Axe
New member
My first experience with a Makita 9227
Well today I had a go with this superb tool, I tried switching it on yesterday for the first time, just to see how it felt, and at setting 3 (1500 RPM) I thought it felt smooth and not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Don't get me wrong, this is a seriously powerful tool, and when cranked all the way up to 6 ... well lets just say there is no way I would go near anything with it on this setting.
So, onto my time with the tool, I decided that I would go with trying to get AXE to a new level, I figured it may be a dangerous thing to do but I gave myself confidence in my own abilities and set to it. I decided to go with #80 on a green sonus pad, so a medium to soft aggresiveness I thought, I set the Makita to 2.5 and went to work. I primed the pad with a big cross of product, and went to work a small 2x2 area, I noticed how easily the tool spun and how easily the product started to work in. Having made perhaps 5 passes of this area I checked the area and felt the paint, it was barely warm and the spider webbings were still there. So, I upped the Mak to 3 and this time I decided to press down on the first couple of passes, I was a little concerned at having to press down, but wow what a difference - The increase in speed and the pressure created heat, not tremendous heat but like hot toast (I don't know if this is too hot?) however when I wiped off the residue what a difference. The webbing seemed to have almost totally gone, and the polish had burnished in such a way that I could have just gone straight to LSP.
So I went to the rest of the car, having done the whole bonnet (hood) first - I found it really quite difficult on the vertical panels on the doors for example, however I found that if I held the loop handle in such a way against the rotation of the spinning head it seemed to balance quite nicely and so I continued over the car.
The splatter is unbelievable, I often had to wipe down panels I had done before and windows and trim and everything, it is a real PITA. However, I reckon with some experience this could be reduced quite dramatically ... I hope so anyhow! Once I had done the car with the Makita I decided I would use VM with the cyclo to really deepen and finish of AXE, this turned out to be a good move, the reflections and depth were now taking shape. I decided to top the car with Collinite 850, I applied this with Cyclo, and wiped it off with the PC and MF bonnets, all I can say is wow, and if this Collinite maintains its current appearance for a month or two I will be very happy.
So, to sum up then, I would say that a rotary is a very powerful tool, it is quite heavy but very well balanced, and extremely powerful. I was a little intimidated, and I would need a lot more experience before I touched someone else's car with it, but it made such a fantastic job I cannot imagine detailing a car without one, it is so good. I have attached a finished pic of AXE, I am going to do my wife's car tomorrow, and I intend to use IP on that car, I had a quick go with IP and noticed it dusted a lot, not sure if I am using IP correctly with the rotary as it dusted so fast, I would be grateful for any advice from you pro rotary users with using IP, thanks.
You have all probably seen AXE before, but I can honestly say this is the best I have seen the car, so I will post just one pic of the polished article, maybe I will sort some pics out of the wifes car and paint correction tomorrow or later on
My first experience with a Cyclo
Today (actually 3 weeks ago now) I used the cyclo for the first time, and I have to say what a rewarding and pleasant experience it was. Firstly the little pads that go on the feet of the machine are so easy to clean, and it is apparent when using the machine that due to these pads being so small, some heat is generated, this seems to aid in paint correction.
The second thing I noticed was the weight of this thing, thinking initially this could be a problem, however in use this weight actually helps the device to do its job, and you can tell using it that you do not really need to add any extra pressure. The handles are in such a position that using the Cyclo is a real pleasure, I did the whole of my car with #80 today with the Orange pads and managed to work the product well into the car, this tool is beautifully smooth to use, no big vibrations like the PC.
I will now find myself using the Cyclo to apply glazes and LSP's and using the PC to buff out the LSP or apply wax maybe, but without doubt the tool of choice to correct paint would be the Makita. I can also say, that I am glad I own all 3 of these tools, each is good for particular jobs and each is a quality made tool.
OK, thanks for reading, look forward to your comments and any tips on using a rotary etc, thanks.
Well today I had a go with this superb tool, I tried switching it on yesterday for the first time, just to see how it felt, and at setting 3 (1500 RPM) I thought it felt smooth and not as intimidating as I thought it might be. Don't get me wrong, this is a seriously powerful tool, and when cranked all the way up to 6 ... well lets just say there is no way I would go near anything with it on this setting.
So, onto my time with the tool, I decided that I would go with trying to get AXE to a new level, I figured it may be a dangerous thing to do but I gave myself confidence in my own abilities and set to it. I decided to go with #80 on a green sonus pad, so a medium to soft aggresiveness I thought, I set the Makita to 2.5 and went to work. I primed the pad with a big cross of product, and went to work a small 2x2 area, I noticed how easily the tool spun and how easily the product started to work in. Having made perhaps 5 passes of this area I checked the area and felt the paint, it was barely warm and the spider webbings were still there. So, I upped the Mak to 3 and this time I decided to press down on the first couple of passes, I was a little concerned at having to press down, but wow what a difference - The increase in speed and the pressure created heat, not tremendous heat but like hot toast (I don't know if this is too hot?) however when I wiped off the residue what a difference. The webbing seemed to have almost totally gone, and the polish had burnished in such a way that I could have just gone straight to LSP.
So I went to the rest of the car, having done the whole bonnet (hood) first - I found it really quite difficult on the vertical panels on the doors for example, however I found that if I held the loop handle in such a way against the rotation of the spinning head it seemed to balance quite nicely and so I continued over the car.
The splatter is unbelievable, I often had to wipe down panels I had done before and windows and trim and everything, it is a real PITA. However, I reckon with some experience this could be reduced quite dramatically ... I hope so anyhow! Once I had done the car with the Makita I decided I would use VM with the cyclo to really deepen and finish of AXE, this turned out to be a good move, the reflections and depth were now taking shape. I decided to top the car with Collinite 850, I applied this with Cyclo, and wiped it off with the PC and MF bonnets, all I can say is wow, and if this Collinite maintains its current appearance for a month or two I will be very happy.
So, to sum up then, I would say that a rotary is a very powerful tool, it is quite heavy but very well balanced, and extremely powerful. I was a little intimidated, and I would need a lot more experience before I touched someone else's car with it, but it made such a fantastic job I cannot imagine detailing a car without one, it is so good. I have attached a finished pic of AXE, I am going to do my wife's car tomorrow, and I intend to use IP on that car, I had a quick go with IP and noticed it dusted a lot, not sure if I am using IP correctly with the rotary as it dusted so fast, I would be grateful for any advice from you pro rotary users with using IP, thanks.
You have all probably seen AXE before, but I can honestly say this is the best I have seen the car, so I will post just one pic of the polished article, maybe I will sort some pics out of the wifes car and paint correction tomorrow or later on
My first experience with a Cyclo
Today (actually 3 weeks ago now) I used the cyclo for the first time, and I have to say what a rewarding and pleasant experience it was. Firstly the little pads that go on the feet of the machine are so easy to clean, and it is apparent when using the machine that due to these pads being so small, some heat is generated, this seems to aid in paint correction.
The second thing I noticed was the weight of this thing, thinking initially this could be a problem, however in use this weight actually helps the device to do its job, and you can tell using it that you do not really need to add any extra pressure. The handles are in such a position that using the Cyclo is a real pleasure, I did the whole of my car with #80 today with the Orange pads and managed to work the product well into the car, this tool is beautifully smooth to use, no big vibrations like the PC.
I will now find myself using the Cyclo to apply glazes and LSP's and using the PC to buff out the LSP or apply wax maybe, but without doubt the tool of choice to correct paint would be the Makita. I can also say, that I am glad I own all 3 of these tools, each is good for particular jobs and each is a quality made tool.
OK, thanks for reading, look forward to your comments and any tips on using a rotary etc, thanks.
