Pearl White matching

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kyotousa

New member
I got my front bumper repainted...However the bumper doesn't match the fender.

The bodyshop says that the fender will match after one month, because clearcoat will start to yellow a bit. Is this true?



If it doesn't yellow up....Is it better to keep my factory fender paint or let the aftermarket shop to blend
 
if it doesnt match in a month have them redo it.

get what you paid for. and they are prob lying to you because that pearl paint is some of the hardest to match.
 
i have a CTS that is pearl (white diamond). the bumper covers don't match from the factory:wall . sometimes not really noticable, other times more so. i am really anal about this stuff HOWEVER sometimes it's better to well enough alone if the paint "finish" is perfect:secret . if it is a pretty good match let it go for a month or so. if you still are not feelin it then repaint but remember the more they sand and paint the greater chance to f things up more sometimes. i live with mine because i'm not really up for a nightmare for a respray:argue .



good luck :)
 
jimmie jam said:
i have a CTS that is pearl (white diamond). the bumper covers don't match from the factory:wall . sometimes not really noticable, other times more so. i am really anal about this stuff HOWEVER sometimes it's better to well enough alone if the paint "finish" is perfect:secret . if it is a pretty good match let it go for a month or so. if you still are not feelin it then repaint but remember the more they sand and paint the greater chance to f things up more sometimes. i live with mine because i'm not really up for a nightmare for a respray:argue .



good luck :)
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they wont go sanding on the bumper. if there is a prob with the paint it is in the color/pearl layer(prob the pearl if it looks a little diff then the rest of the car or it is the color layer if it is the wrong shade)
 
kyotousa said:
I got my front bumper repainted...However the bumper doesn't match the fender.
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It didn't match before you got it painted. Look at your rear bumper to confirm it.



kyotusa said:
The bodyshop says that the fender will match after one month, because clearcoat will start to yellow a bit. Is this true?



If it doesn't yellow up....Is it better to keep my factory fender paint or let the aftermarket shop to blend
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Sorry, but the shop is trying to blow you off in hopes that you won't come back. It won't fade, especialy enough to match your fenders!



Don't have them blend into the fenders for a match. 3 stage pearls are a major PITA to match and if the shop can't do it within an acceptable varience, the paint manufacturer should get involved. Shops can easily contact them and get a tech manager to shoot a spray out panel for the shop.



The shop either made a mistake, doesn't know what their doing, or doesn't care?
 
ggk said:
they wont go sanding on the bumper. if there is a prob with the paint it is in the color/pearl layer(prob the pearl if it looks a little diff then the rest of the car or it is the color layer if it is the wrong shade)
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yes, it's very hard to get the flakes to lay/flow the same way, especially 3 stage. (if they repaint they WILL sand the clear off, re-prime etc.) :nervous:
 
The color will not improve over time. As it ages, the surrounding areas age also. If clear "yellows" over 30 days time, there is something wrong with the clear. I think they told you 30 days hoping you would forget about it....



Urethane bumpers dont always match sheet metal when panted 3 stage paint. Look st some cars right out of the factory.



1. How old is the car?

2. Was the cover replaced with a genuine part or an after market?

3. Did they paint over a factory finished part and blend?

4. Was the part already refinished post factory?

5. Does the shop have a paint mixing machine on site or is the paint purchased form an auto body supply store?
 
ggk said:
if it doesnt match in a month have them redo it.

get what you paid for. and they are prob lying to you because that pearl paint is some of the hardest to match.
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well I know it probably won't yellow up.....that's why I am looking for someone that know the answer to shade some light.



Maybe someone could explain to me how does blend in work?
 
David Fermani said:
It didn't match before you got it painted. Look at your rear bumper to confirm it.







Sorry, but the shop is trying to blow you off in hopes that you won't come back. It won't fade, especialy enough to match your fenders!
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Well on the driver's side he did a blend in and it did matched. Well not perfectly but acceptable.



So is it bad to do a blend in?
 
jsatek said:
The color will not improve over time. As it ages, the surrounding areas age also. If clear "yellows" over 30 days time, there is something wrong with the clear. I think they told you 30 days hoping you would forget about it....



Urethane bumpers dont always match sheet metal when panted 3 stage paint. Look st some cars right out of the factory.



1. How old is the car?

2. Was the cover replaced with a genuine part or an after market?

3. Did they paint over a factory finished part and blend?

4. Was the part already refinished post factory?

5. Does the shop have a paint mixing machine on site or is the paint purchased form an auto body supply store?
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All I can tell you is the car is 2005 Acura TSX, it's replaced by genuine parts, and it matched perfectly right out of factory.



As for your first comment it could be something like natural log graph...it's not gonna keep yellowing or else my car would turn into a yllow car :cool:
 
kyotousa said:
All I can tell you is the car is 2005 Acura TSX, it's replaced by genuine parts, and it matched perfectly right out of factory.
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I'd have to disagree with you on this. They don't match perfectly from the factory. Most times, not even close. And, for this very reason, it isn't acceptable for a shop or an insurance company to get them(or to pay to get them) to match the adjacent panels when they do repairs. They *should* actually be able to get the match alot closer though...
 
Anyway...I can't spot a mismatch paint on my car before...so I am gonna say they matched perfectly



Bottomline is the shop can't get a match....So you are saying pretty much no solution here.
 
if you are unhappy complain. get them to repaint it and if they dont want to be like i want my money back and take it to a good painter. i know a few painters that can get pearl right every time, but it costs money.
 
ggk said:
if you are unhappy complain. get them to repaint it and if they dont want to be like i want my money back and take it to a good painter. i know a few painters that can get pearl right every time, but it costs money.
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He will repaint it...but then what? You still won't get the match.

and....what you gonna do after that. Whack the guy?



Anyway I'll get him to repaint it after a month.



JW how much should I be looking for for whole front bumper repaint in your expensive paint shop?
 
Alright, no one answered his question: He asked, how does the blend process work: Well, its fairly simple when your not the one painting it!! The CORRECT way to blend a panel is as follows: If your front bumper was repainted the blend SHOULD continue onto BOTH fenders and the hood. No matter what anyone says, its ALOT of work, but thats the CORRECT way! Now for a "spot blend", its alittle different...a good painter should blend onto the same panel as the "spot" White pearl is extremely hard to blend for some reason...if you look really hard at the color...its not white, its more of a off white color. I have taken 3 years of custom paint school, and I paid attension. One of our tests was to "spot blend" Cadillac white pearl paint. My goodness what that a B*tch! But after 2 trys, I got it! :)



If you would have taken it to a good paint shop, they would have a color finder(PPG makes the best) and take color samples of the hood, and both fenders, then match the paint to all 3 of those samples. To be honest, it could take 2-3 times before you match it correctly. What people don't realize, when you repaint a single panel, that paint is FRESH, color is vibrant, clearcoat is glassy...and then the rest of the car has faded slightly.



Take it back to them, demand you want it repainted correctly...remember, you are in charge when you talk to them. Don't let them talk down on you...which most shops tend to do! I hope i helped alittle...



P.S. Clearcoat should never EVER yellow within 30 days!!
 
I had the same problem with my White Diamond Escalade. They did a nice job laying the paint but I still have mixed feelings about how it matches. I've just learned to live with it since it's not terriably dramatic. Might very well be the same case for you.
 
kyotousa said:
Anyway...I can't spot a mismatch paint on my car before...so I am gonna say they matched perfectly



Bottomline is the shop can't get a match....So you are saying pretty much no solution here.
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1st of all, 99% of vehicle manufacturers have a vendor paint their trim pieces(bumpers/mirrors/moldings/etc). What this means is that they aren't painted with the rest of the vehicle(sheetmetal). It's totally different paint and totally different paint booth systems. What this means is that there cannot possibly be an exact match. On some colors, it's less obvious, but on most, it sticks out like a sore thumb.



My point is, that if 2 totally different paint plants seemed to do a decent job of "matching" the paint originally, it can be done again; much more easily. Why? Because the painter (if he knows what he's doing) has tools and support to match what's in front of his own 2 eyes(able to to o multiple spray out panels). Unlike the plant, which could be 1000's of miles away.



If you were happy with the *match* prior to the repair, the shop should be able to duplicate it without blending into the fenders and/or hood.



If this was an insurance claim where the insurance company paid to just replace the bumper, they would NEVER pay to blend into the adjacent panels for matching purposes. Why? Because they only owe to return your vehicle to pre-loss condition. Pre-loss condition = mismatched paint.



Technically, if you want to improve the appearance of your vehicle and/or insure an exact match when repainting most bumper covers, you should blend. That's the above and beyond right way, but not common body shop practice.



Was this an insurance claim?

If so, did you take it to the shop your insurance company recommended?
 
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