PC after wetsanding?

L

Lowejackson

New member
Is a PC powerful enough to use after wetsanding. Given that my car is not in great shape, I am now willing to use it to experiment on. I know many have used a rotary to polish after sanding but can a PC do the job.



Steven
 
Lowejackson said:
Is a PC powerful enough to use after wetsanding. Given that my car is not in great shape, I am now willing to use it to experiment on. I know many have used a rotary to polish after sanding but can a PC do the job.



Steven
Click to expand...



I've read that a PC can't heat enough to break through the compound you'll be using after the wetsand, only the rotary.
 
I don't think a pc can do it cause I had some sanding scrathes on the side off my truck a hell of a time removing the scratches with my pc I had to let my friend who owns a bodyshop do it
 
I've done it, but it is a bit more work. If all you have is the PC, here's what I recommend:



1. Wet sand using 2000 grit paper and a good sanding block. Soak the paper for a min of one hour. Add a few drops of car wash shampoo to the water for lube.



2. Sand the paint just enough to remove the high spots. If you sand it until you have an even finish, you've remove too much paint material. Use lots of water for lubrication. A spray bottle is best. Check the paint surface often by drying and inspecting.



3. Hand compound the paint using 3M Fine Cut Compound or another hand compound designed to remove 1200+ sanding marks. Use a foam applicator. The Eagle One applicator with the yello handle works good for this because you can get a grip on it. Compound just enough to remove 80% of the visible sanding marks.



4. Use your PC with Menzerna Intensive Polish or 3M FI-II and a fine foam pad (CMA/Dura Foam grey pad) using the PC. Use plenty of polish. Let the polish do the work, not the pad.



5. Finish with Menzerna Final or 3M SMR using the PC and the fine foam pad.



db
 
David,



Any reason in particular to do the compounding step by hand rather than the PC? I would have thought something like FCRC with a yellow "cutting" pad (or wool, if necessary), followed by a milder polish with a white polishing pad . . .



Or is it just a case of more than one way to skin a cat?



Curious,

Tort
 
David nailed it on the head, but I'll share my experiences...



I recently wetsanded a few things - a set of Porsche "telephone dial" wheels and a 1988 Porsche 944.



The wheels had just been painted (by yours truly) and had a very dry top coat of clear; they were very, very rough to the touch. I wetsanded them with 1500 grit, followed with 2000 grit. A hand application/rub down with some FI-II, followed with SMR and they were lookin' and feeling perfect.



The 944 was wetsanded with 1500 grit only (no follow-up), and then PC'd with a yellow foam pad and Perfect-It III. Worked like an absolute charm. We followed it up with SMR and GEPC - looked better than new...



So, to make a long story short - the PC can take out wetsanding marks, as long as you're wetsanding "correctly". There's very few things that the PC can't do - it just might not do them as fast as a rotary would, but I'll take that slower speed (and safety cushion) any day.
 
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