PB's polishing steps ?

heffergm

New member
My question is regarding what to follow up PB's SSR's with. On the back of the SSR1 bottle for instance, it's recommended to follow with Pro Polish as a finishing step.

Is this really necessary (and by necessary, I know I don't HAVE to do it, but will it really improve the finish that much more)? If I use any more abrasive SSR, I will follow it with SSR1 as a step down, followed by an LSP.

I've also developed the sense that PP would be preferred for use with a rotary, and I'll be using a DA.

Any opinions? Do you follow SSR1 with a final polish or glaze and actually see an improvement? I've used SSR2.5 a few times and it finished so nicely I didn't see the need for much else, so following SSR1 seems overkill to me.
 
I used the following steps as recommended by Poorboy:

SSR 2.5 w/ white LC polishing pad
SSR 1 w/ gray LC finishing pad
PwC by hand
 
Overkill should be a word banned here:lmfao
Over time you will develop an eye for differences in finish. Its about what you want. Some people find that after using SSR1 they don't need a follow up polish because the surface it PERFECT for your LSP. Some find the surface is not ready aka Glossing enough, still slight imperfections, Etc...
I usually follow up with PwC after using SSR1. It adds a jaw dropping shine. Experiment with different combo's and applications. Not everyone is going to experience the same results using the same product. I hope this kinda helps.
 
I have read from you and others when using SSR2.5 that it finishes off well enough to go strait to an LSP. I have never found this to be the case. It must be in my application when using either the rotary or PC. It also most likely has to do with my pad choice. Since I usually use a more aggressive pad most likely the problems that I have found with marring and hazing are the reason I found it necessary to use SSR1 to finish my paint.

I do not believe that it is necessay to use PP after SSR1. Yet it depends on the degree with which you intend to get the best possible finish. It also depends on the detailer's eye of the finish. To be truthful, only you can judge if it is necessary to follow SSR1 with PP. How picky(discerning) are you?

Since the hood of my vehicle is my favorite area to work on I often use this area to make comparisons. I would suggest making your own test to see if your detailers eye is sharp enough to see a difference. This test will also tell you wether or not the use of PP after SSR1 will be necessary.

Do not take this the wrong way but....if you find the finish of your paint is clear enough, after the use of SSR2.5, to go strait to an LSP, , I am circumspect as to wether your detailers eye is educated enough to make a judgement. It is either that or your skills using a rotary are well advanced. Which mine are not. Making a side by side comparison is really the best way for you to judge.

If the *Best Shine*, is the objective for your vehicle's paint surface then the preparation of said surface is tantamount to your objective. Take the time to do the work that is necessary to see that perfect shine that only you can see or be satisfied with!!!
 
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