Paint flake
- Thread starter bcgreen
- Start date
atgonzales
New member
Dr Colorchip all the way
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgreen- If you use the DrColorChips, I`d strongly advise you to apply it via a brush (like conventional touchup paint) rather than their "smear it around" method.
And be careful with any subsequent polishing, their paint has never been all that durable for me.
Eh, I dunno...I`d *probably* use a conventional/ two step touchup on that one, if only because of its size (and my wanting a really durable repair on something that size and location) but that`s just me and it`d sure be a lot more work.
How do you plan to level it (or do you?)...via solvent (DrColorChips, Langka) or with wetsanding/etc.?
And be careful with any subsequent polishing, their paint has never been all that durable for me.
Eh, I dunno...I`d *probably* use a conventional/ two step touchup on that one, if only because of its size (and my wanting a really durable repair on something that size and location) but that`s just me and it`d sure be a lot more work.
How do you plan to level it (or do you?)...via solvent (DrColorChips, Langka) or with wetsanding/etc.?
I value your opinion, so no Dr. on this one and I will go wetsanding.
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
most definitely you should get touch up and clear and sand it down ... if you want to use Dr C then use it to get the base coat and then fill with clear , sand, clear again and then sand and polish
to get it "right" it will take a few days to let each step cure .. you could also use heat lamps, if you have access to them, to make the process move faster
to get it "right" it will take a few days to let each step cure .. you could also use heat lamps, if you have access to them, to make the process move faster
Normally I will, depending on the depth, put 2 layers of base, and then fill the rest of the way with clear. Will try your method of, 1 coat base, then clear, sand, clear, and sand until it level and then polish.
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
Being metallic it will not look perfect as the metallic in the paint lays differently when its brushed on vs. sprayed. I order paint from Automotive TouchUp, apply the base, then build it up with clear. I use a denibber to shave off the top and wet sand from there.
Just don`t be another one of those "I think I sanded through my clear coat" threads.
Just don`t be another one of those "I think I sanded through my clear coat" threads.
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
using too much base sometimes causes you to lose the correct look, especially with metallic ... I like the idea of getting spray can as the original base is very thin and do the same process with fine sprayed layers of clear ...
Being metallic it will not look perfect as the metallic in the paint lays differently when its brushed on vs. sprayed. I order paint from Automotive TouchUp, apply the base, then build it up with clear. I use a denibber to shave off the top and wet sand from there.
Just don`t be another one of those "I think I sanded through my clear coat" threads.
does the "denibber" ever take the whole touch up out? I`ve used blades before (very carefully) and then sanded..
and yes be very careful when sanding
RaskyR1
Rasky's Auto Detailing
using too much base sometimes causes you to lose the correct look, especially with metallic ... I like the idea of getting spray can as the original base is very thin and do the same process with fine sprayed layers of clear ...
does the "denibber" ever take the whole touch up out? I`ve used blades before (very carefully) and then sanded..
and yes be very careful when sanding
It has, usually if I`m rushing. I honestly try to avoid sanding them as I feel it`s a waste of time for your typical rock chips. Just touch it up and move on as they are going to continue to happen. The one the OP posted is a bit different though.
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
It has, usually if I`m rushing. I honestly try to avoid sanding them as I feel it`s a waste of time for your typical rock chips. Just touch it up and move on as they are going to continue to happen. The one the OP posted is a bit different though.
Yup .. same with the blade if curing hadn`t completed ... gouges are usually the only ones worth the effort
It has, usually if I`m rushing. I honestly try to avoid sanding them as I feel it`s a waste of time for your typical rock chips. Just touch it up and move on as they are going to continue to happen. The one the OP posted is a bit different though.
So with my particular job, how would you handle it? I understand to apply one coat of base and then apply a couple of clear coats. Since the depth of the defect is about the thickness of a sheet of paper, should I still sand?
Accumulator
Well-known member
Poorboy- What clearcoats are compatible with the DrColorChips in the sense of avoiding solvent-action? That`s an interesting idea that *never* occurred to me!
) It`s in that "if you have to ask..." category and BY NO MEANS do I intend that as insulting and if you`re competent at wetsanding/etc. the by all means go for it rather than taking the safe, but generally less likely to turn out great, way of doing it via a solvent.
Maybe you oughta say..."I value your opinon...*BUT* I will go wetsanding". I generally think that wetsanding, even of minor touchups is something that oughta be left to people who`ve done so much of it that it`s a complete no-brainer. (Heh heh, yeah...how do you get to that point if you never start?!?
) It`s in that "if you have to ask..." category and BY NO MEANS do I intend that as insulting and if you`re competent at wetsanding/etc. the by all means go for it rather than taking the safe, but generally less likely to turn out great, way of doing it via a solvent.Poorboy- What clearcoats are compatible with the DrColorChips in the sense of avoiding solvent-action? That`s an interesting idea that *never* occurred to me!
Maybe you oughta say..."I value your opinon...*BUT* I will go wetsanding". I generally think that wetsanding, even of minor touchups is something that oughta be left to people who`ve done so much of it that it`s a complete no-brainer. (Heh heh, yeah...how do you get to that point if you never start?!?
I was thinking when you asked which way was I leaning, either solvents or wetsanding, I felt those were the options you were suggestion and so I picked wetsanding. My first attempt at wetsanding was a number of years ago using very small circular sandpapers on chips on a 300CE, thats when I had stopped before polishing, my wife said "what happened to the car, it looks like its got measles?" After polishing, the hood, it looked fabulous. I have done small wetsanding jobs before, so I feel pretty confident, but this is rather unusual in its shape and size.(for me). If I could afford the equipment, I would probably try airbrushing as a number 1 option.
I don`t think in this particular case it will look as good as the typical rock chip that we all experience on the front of our vehicles.
Accumulator
Well-known member
bcgree- Ah, OK, thanks for explaining! Sounds to me like you know from wetsanding.
And yeah, I too have used those small circular sandpaper things.
With the possibly awkward location of this one, it might take a bit of figuring..."hmmm, how should I go about this?", but as long as you remember that metallic touchups are *never* really perfect I bet it`ll turn out fine.
Ya know...I did a lot of airbrushing when I was a kid, and still have my Paasche, but I`ve never used it for an automotive touchup. Rather, I have an ever-expanding collection of little artists` brushes and the tiny disposable ones. One the increasingly rare occasions that I bother fixing chips/etc. I find that approach is what suits me the best. But hey, that`s just me and some guys here (e.g., the currently MIA Brad B.) have done some amazing stuff with airbrushes.
And yeah, I too have used those small circular sandpaper things.
With the possibly awkward location of this one, it might take a bit of figuring..."hmmm, how should I go about this?", but as long as you remember that metallic touchups are *never* really perfect I bet it`ll turn out fine.
Ya know...I did a lot of airbrushing when I was a kid, and still have my Paasche, but I`ve never used it for an automotive touchup. Rather, I have an ever-expanding collection of little artists` brushes and the tiny disposable ones. One the increasingly rare occasions that I bother fixing chips/etc. I find that approach is what suits me the best. But hey, that`s just me and some guys here (e.g., the currently MIA Brad B.) have done some amazing stuff with airbrushes.
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
after spending time with the founder of Dr CC I believe that it is a fast flashing solvent base. I don`t think a water based clear will have any problem over it.
Yes, air brush would be best but there should be an aerosol version of your color and you can tape it off well and lay down a very fine coat. If you are going to use old time method "brush" , i was taught that it would be worth investing in the best brush possible.
My last advice for sanding is to do it dry and slow ... patience is a must as also making sure the paint has hardened before attempting any sanding
Yes, air brush would be best but there should be an aerosol version of your color and you can tape it off well and lay down a very fine coat. If you are going to use old time method "brush" , i was taught that it would be worth investing in the best brush possible.
My last advice for sanding is to do it dry and slow ... patience is a must as also making sure the paint has hardened before attempting any sanding
I will be doing the aerosol route. Interesting going for dry sanding will be a first. From the pics, you can see the edges are sawtooth type, so I am going to scrape those straight, lay down one layer of base, then one layer clear, sand and then one more layer of clear, sand and then polish.
Anything else, you guys recommend I need to do?
My last advice for sanding is to do it dry and slow ... patience is a must as also making sure the paint has hardened before attempting any sanding
I will be doing the aerosol route. Interesting going for dry sanding will be a first. From the pics, you can see the edges are sawtooth type, so I am going to scrape those straight, lay down one layer of base, then one layer clear, sand and then one more layer of clear, sand and then polish.
Anything else, you guys recommend I need to do?
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
Good luck and don`t be afraid to clean it all out and try again if it doesn`t look as you want it the first time
Accumulator
Well-known member
Oh man, I can`t remember! I bought mine back in the early `90s or so. I *probably* got them from Eastwood. Mine came with a round foam holder for the sandpapers, and some "polish" (scare-quotes intentional) which I`m glad I tested before using on my paint
poorboy said:
Ah, OK, thanks for the info. So far I haven`t used any water-based stuff though.
I`m just soooo paranoid about overspray! Whether undercoat or paint, I wrap the whole (rest of the) car up in layers of plastic and pull all the other vehicles out of the shop (which usually can`t be done so I have to cover all of them too, without marring their covered-with-dust paint). I think it was Mike who said that "car-guys always have overspray on their cars from spraying paint" and I`m not gonna join that club
And *YES* on buying good brushes! Some guys advocate small pinstriping brushes, though I`ve never tried one.
I do all my sanding wet, and/but *ALWAYS* under great lighting and magnification. One light stroke at a time. That`s when I do it at all