I had some work done on my car over the last couple of weeks. The hood was refinished, front bumper cover, and right rear 1/4 panel. How long do I need to wait before applying any wax, glaze, etc.? The guy at the body shop said I could apply glaze if I wanted, just no sealant or wax? What do you guys recommend? Thanks in advance.
paint cure
- Thread starter blkgt
- Start date
imported_Jakerooni
New member
Glaze is fine but wait at least 30 days before you ad wax to it.
imported_mirrorfinishman
New member
One again Jake is accurate in his suggestion to wait at least 30 days. Of course, the longer you wait past 30 days the more time you are allowing to insure the paint is in fact properly cured.
brwill2005
New member
30 days is plenty of time IMO. The new waterborne paints do not need to off gas like the old laquer and solvent based paints. I was on PPG's website today and could not find anything on not waxing newly applied paint. It is possible that if you ask 100 people this question, you will get 50 different answers.
Accumulator
Well-known member
As MirrorFinishMan has posted on this thread, I feel a little weird pointing out that when he queried the major paint manufacturers they *all* said to wait at least 90-120 days.
I've experienced major differences in hardness well after the 90 day mark (and that was baked paint). Thirty days has *never* been long enough for aftermarket paint to achieve maximum hardness IME, simply never.
I've experienced major differences in hardness well after the 90 day mark (and that was baked paint). Thirty days has *never* been long enough for aftermarket paint to achieve maximum hardness IME, simply never.
Superior Shine
New member
I am an ASE cert. re-finisher. I always told my clients to way 30 days before waxing.
All the major paint manufactures recommend 30 to 60 days before waxing.
As a test I waxed fresh paint (clear coat over black/baked) the very next day after it was painted. A year and 1/2 later it still looks perfect.
So ........ :nixweiss
All the major paint manufactures recommend 30 to 60 days before waxing.
As a test I waxed fresh paint (clear coat over black/baked) the very next day after it was painted. A year and 1/2 later it still looks perfect.
So ........ :nixweiss
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
brwill2005 said:
Are you referring to OEM or aftermarket finishes? Not too many shops are spraying waterborne yet?
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Superior Fine said:
Exactly. Does anyone have any valid proof that waxing freshly finished paint will damage it? Lots of people warn against it, but why? Does anyone want to try an experiment? :scared:
I get more scared when shops hack up fresh paint with sandpaper & compound than just plain wax.
ReLoaDeD BuLLiT
New member
I've always thought waxing fresh paint wouldn't harm it as well.
brwill2005
New member
David Fermani said:
Both. Either way modern paints do not need to off gas as much as the older laquer paint did. Is that not why they tell you not to wax fresh paint; the wax will keep the paint from off gassing and effect the curing? Like I said, you can ask many people and get many different answers.
Accumulator
Well-known member
There are a number of (supposedly) fresh-repaint-safe products that will provide better protection than the glazes that I prefer to use: FK 2180 (IIRC :think: ) and OCW come to mind (the latter endorsed by Ford for post-production refinish jobs), and IIRC Sal Zaino says his stuff is OK.
Somebody oughta take a panel that was reshot with something like baked S-H and wax it right after the paint dries. Then see if it's as hard as usual to correct after four months. I'm sure there are other aftermarket paints that get at least as hard as S-H does, but IME that stuff gets as hard as factory Audi clear, and that's hard enough for an easy evaluation.
Interesting that their info was different when MirrorFinishMan inquired :nixweiss
FWIW, the S-H rep who services Stoddard Imports said to wait at least 90 days.
It's not a matter of looks, durability, etc. but rather a question of the paint attaining its maximum potential hardness.
If you get a chance to polish/etc. that paint, see if it's as hard as the factory clear.
Ah, I bet I'm coming across all :argue and I don't intend to do that
Again, it's merely a matter of whether the paint gets as hard as it can. Will the waxing/etc. of a fresh repaint have a negative effect on that hardening... well :nixweiss but I don't want to find out the hard way that it will. I'd sure be ticked off if one of my Audis ended up with softer-than-factory clear.
One of the things I like about the S-H refinishing is that it gets nice and hard...the areas they spotted in with it on my MPV are a *lot* harder than the factory Mazda clear.
(I just had the last remaining quart of old ss Rhodium Silver applied to the Jag last year.) Yeah...ss lacquer is weird with regard to how long it takes to outgas and cure. My (good, independent shop) painter wouldn't even do his final polishing until it had sat for a few months.
The baked S-H b/c that Stoddard is using on their work for me still seems to take forever to outgas...the whole garage smells like a paintshop for months on end and the polishing always gets progressively more difficult. By the time I don't smell the paint it's as hard as it'll get..that seems pretty consistent so I don't *think* it's a coincidence.
Somebody oughta take a panel that was reshot with something like baked S-H and wax it right after the paint dries. Then see if it's as hard as usual to correct after four months. I'm sure there are other aftermarket paints that get at least as hard as S-H does, but IME that stuff gets as hard as factory Audi clear, and that's hard enough for an easy evaluation.
Superior Fine said:
Interesting that their info was different when MirrorFinishMan inquired :nixweiss
FWIW, the S-H rep who services Stoddard Imports said to wait at least 90 days.
It's not a matter of looks, durability, etc. but rather a question of the paint attaining its maximum potential hardness.
If you get a chance to polish/etc. that paint, see if it's as hard as the factory clear.
Ah, I bet I'm coming across all :argue and I don't intend to do that
Again, it's merely a matter of whether the paint gets as hard as it can. Will the waxing/etc. of a fresh repaint have a negative effect on that hardening... well :nixweiss but I don't want to find out the hard way that it will. I'd sure be ticked off if one of my Audis ended up with softer-than-factory clear.One of the things I like about the S-H refinishing is that it gets nice and hard...the areas they spotted in with it on my MPV are a *lot* harder than the factory Mazda clear.
brwill2005 said:
(I just had the last remaining quart of old ss Rhodium Silver applied to the Jag last year.) Yeah...ss lacquer is weird with regard to how long it takes to outgas and cure. My (good, independent shop) painter wouldn't even do his final polishing until it had sat for a few months.
The baked S-H b/c that Stoddard is using on their work for me still seems to take forever to outgas...the whole garage smells like a paintshop for months on end and the polishing always gets progressively more difficult. By the time I don't smell the paint it's as hard as it'll get..that seems pretty consistent so I don't *think* it's a coincidence.
Thanks for all the answers. Well, the guy that told me this from the body shop wasn't the same guy that called me 2 hours before that and said, "your car is all ready to go, we waxed it up and got it looking all purdy!" Hmmmmm. Yea, they got it looking pretty all right, pretty swirled! Anyway, since I was told they did wax it, should I try and remove the wax(just in case)...just as a precaution? Thanks again.
TaylorMade
New member
Superior Shine is right; I'am also a honorable body/painter and excellent paint refinisher by trade and I to have painted (PPG) black (baked) and performed wetsnding,polishing;glaze and wax in the same day. It depends on the curing of paint, single-stage and basecoat/clearcoat.
Accumulator
Well-known member
PoNyUp said:
I imagine you want to deswirl it, and the polishing that'll accomplish that will remove any wax. Then you're back to deciding what you want to do during the curing period.
brwill2005
New member
I just received some clarification on this issue from Dr. G, the founder of Optimum. He did work for PPG in the past so I trust his analysis. He stated that a factory finish is pretty much cured when it rolls off the assembly line because the paint is baked. The issue is refinished paint which is usually not baked and takes up to 30 days to cure. During this time SOLVENT based waxes/sealants should not be used because they can soften the paint. Anything with abrasives should not be used also. He did say WATER based waxes and sealants CAN be used during the cure period without any ill effects.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
So, according to Dr. G, Body Shops aren't supposed to sand and/or buff fresh paint? I don't know 1 shop that doesn't? Even 3M approves & promotes sanding and buffing of fresh paint. You also mentioned that "refinished paint" paint isn't baked, but it is? At much less temps than the factory. Also, this means that bumpers on brand new vehicles fall into the "refinished paint" category and aren't cured when they hit the dealerships. I think again we have another person's rendition/recommendation of what *should* be avoided, but is there any data or evidence to back this up? I think until we do, these claims could be perceived as no more than wives tales? I don't know who to believe at this point?
brwill2005
New member
No. When referring to the use of abrasives, he meant after the post-painting polishing was done because the paint is still soft during the 30 day period. He stated 'generally' re-finish paint is not baked. He did not mention anything about whether the paint on the bumpers of cars is baked or not. Why would you not believe the advice of someone with a Phd in organic chemistry amongst other things, and who has done R&D for one of the major paint manufacturers? I am sure he is not just making this up, and I imagine it is backed by research etc. Why not go over to the Optimum forum and read the entire post.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Isn't post-painting polishing being done with abrasives/sanding? Unless your a DIY garage painter, pretty much every Body Shop is baking their paint. It's not that I don't believe him(or any one else), it's just that there's alot of mixed views from other industry professionals (including paint manufacturers) that contradict some other views. I still can't tell who's right?
Do you mind posting or PMing the link to this other thread?
Do you mind posting or PMing the link to this other thread?