Paint Correction

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Nick1214

New member
I would like to start doing paint correction. I am having a hard time looking at all the different products and machines that there are. I am going to practice on my wifes 2008 Black Honda Pilot(leased). I want to start polishing and doing paint correction.



I have some swirls visible in the sun. I do not have a garage or a good lighting source other then sunlight.



What do I need to start?



Thanks
 
Sunlight has been my best indicator for swirls. It sucks not to have a garage. Have you considered looking into one those temporary tents? It won't shield you from the wind, but at least you and your car will get out of the sun. A black car heats up pretty fast and it won't be as easy to work the polishes and waxes you'll be using.
 
Basically I am nervous to spend money on something that I cannot confirm is the right product for the job. I really do not trust myself to buy the right products
 
Oh, have more confidence in yourself!

A flex is a good place to start. Add the Megs 105/205 or poorboys SSR2.5/1 combo's, a handful of pads and you should have a good setup.



Id suggest one of those $30 halogen light setups at Sears that really show up the swirls and

damage well.



reading for hours and hours on autopia is a requirement as well.
 
Thanks for the replies



Is there any threads that stick out in your mind that talk about the difference in pads?



What is the difference between a PC7424 and a Flex?
 
i'd start out with a PC7424..its what i have and i love it..its very easy to use i hear honda has some pretty soft clear..so, correct me if i'm wrong, maybe start out with Menzerna SIP(super intensive polish/PO83Q) on a white Lake Country foam pad then move to Menzerna PO85RD on a Lake Country Gray Pad...if the PO83Q+White doesn't work take much out, then maybe move down to a more aggressive orange pad
 
How many cars will a 32OZ bottle of m105 or m205 do?



It seems like those are the 2 polishes that I should start out with. Is that right or do I need more?
 
Nick1214 said:
What is the difference between a PC7424 and a Flex?
Click to expand...



the flex is a forced rotation da while the pc is not. you probably won't be able to make the flex stop spinning while using it, the pc is fairly easy to make it stop spinning. the flex is the better of the two although more expensive.
 
Wow, suggesting a newbie start with a flex + 105 on a leased vehicle. You guys are brave!



Honestly, I'd leave the 105 out of the rotation while learning, and probably start with a 7424. The 7424 with M105 is plenty strong for nearly anything a home user could want. I used a 7424 with Ultimate Compound last weekend and was amazed at what I got out of it with a LC orange pad.



But hey, I'm no pro. Just putting my thoughts out there.
 
Why is the first answer a machine polisher? An agressive and non-diminishing compound?? And all this on a leased car???



The first step is for the OP to read up on deatialing, waxing and how clearcoats work. The term "paint correction" is highly missleading, it should be "paint reduction" as in



"I am going to reduce my clearcoat thickness by 10% to remove surface hazing."



Once that's out of the way, the main question is if anything needs to be done. That can't be evaluated except by giving the car a good washing, using a prewax cleaner to deep clean the paint and claying.



At this point the paint surface is fully clean, and you can evaluate it. Truely fine surface hazing should generally be ignored, because the wax or (wax + glaze) will hide it. Hazing that is visible head on, is much more of an issue than hazing which can only be seen in angled light.



Any visible scratches that are noticeable should be polished with a goal of reducing the sharpness/distinctiveness of the scratch's edges. A bottle of Kit scratch out, and a few foam pads are all you need for this.



After that apply some cleaner wax, have a beer, and then re-evaluate the paint's condition.
 
I am not a total noob. I have washed and clayed my cars many times and I have used waxes and sealants. I feel that a machine polish is necessary as it will be on most cars I encounter. I am just going by the before and afters I see on here and I think it is necessary. Honestly the fact that it is a lease makes me feel more comfortable. When I return it I doubt they are going to tell me the paint is not shiny enough. I have seen some pigs returned on a lease not even brought to the car wash. If I go through the clear big deal I am allowed $2,000 worth of damage when I return the car.



Thanks for the advice and the opinions
 
I am not a total noob I have washed properly and clayed many times. I have used waxes and sealants.



If anybody has any more polish reccomendations please chime in.



I am ordering these two as of now:



Meguiars Mirror Glaze #105 Ultra-Cut Compound New D.A. Version With FREE BONUS



Meguiars Mirror Glaze #205 Ultra Finishing Polish, final polish, Meguiars polishes, car polish, 205 FP



For the PC this is what I am ordering:



Porter Cable 7424 Complete Starter Kit, Porter Cable 7424 buffer, Porter Cable power tools



Is that overkill on the pad? Can I get a cheaper one?
 
Some people claim the 6.5" pads are too large for the PC, and recommend 5.5" pads instead. Many seem to dislike the CCS pads in general. Beyond that, it seems like a nice package deal.



The 105 is really aggressive, especially if you don't get the dual action approved. Be careful with it.



Any wax or sealant in the order, or do you have that already?
 
I am probably going to use zaino as an LSP. I would use Z2 because there won't be any swirls to cover up anymore......hopefully.



I am still reading through a lot of stuff on here trying to figure out what pads to use.



Should I be able to use M205 through out this car because it is not that bad?
 
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