Pad Kits?

GrayFox

New member
I picked up a PC this weekend. Now I need to get some pads.



Could y'all list some (net) places that sell pad kits?



Thanks



Jerry
 
erockoneskee said:
I've heard people raving about these kits but are the 7" pads user friendly compared to the 6" ones made by LC or Sonus?



If you're talking about the Propel pads... yes they are. The only problem I've had is a little hopping with the orange pad on the rotary. They work great on the PC.
 
White95Max said:
If you're talking about the Propel pads... yes they are. The only problem I've had is a little hopping with the orange pad on the rotary. They work great on the PC.



Okay good, because properautocare lists their 7.5" LC pads as for more advanced users, so I assumed that the larger the pad the harder they are to use.



Any complete newbs to the PC have a lot of success with the 7" propel pad kit? I'm planning on purchasing the pad kit along with some PB's SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 to do some minor spider web and marring removal on my new G35.
 
I have 4", 6", and the 7 1/2" LC pads.



I prefer the 6" more so than the VC 7 1/2" ones.



I think the VC ones are better for cutting, but that might be rotary only.



The 4" pads are my real favorites though. For complete swirl removal-defect correcting, on my own vehicles, i do a few panels at a time spread over a few weeks, on weekends. I spend about 3-4 hours on a bad hood, 1 for a fender, ect.



I recently recieved the sonus DAS pad kit(autopia store, i like them alot. They are top notch pads.
 
The typical size is 6.5" or 7". The larger pads allow for more space between the backing plate and edge of the pad, so there's less to worry about as far as contacting the paint with the edge of the backing plate. Smaller pads spread the heat over a smaller area, and are also useful for tighter areas where it would be difficult to fit a 6.5"+ pad in there.
 
erockoneskee said:
Okay good, because properautocare lists their 7.5" LC pads as for more advanced users, so I assumed that the larger the pad the harder they are to use.



Any complete newbs to the PC have a lot of success with the 7" propel pad kit? I'm planning on purchasing the pad kit along with some PB's SSR 2.5 and SSR 1 to do some minor spider web and marring removal on my new G35.



Ive had good success as a first tiem PC user with the Propel kit. Apparently the swirls on my I30 were worse than I had thought (or, the clearcoat is REALLY hard). Ive ended up at Propel Orange pad with SSR2.5. Sounds agressive, but its not leaving very much hazing, while removing most of the swirls in one pass. I spoke to Patrick about the pads, and he mentioned that yellow is less agressive, but might end up doing more work because its not as firm as Orange, so you can really work the pad into certain areas, and the weight from the PC is enough to "squeeze" the pad down onto panels, makng the product work in better/faster. He was correct, I noticed an improvement in the time/effort needed to remove most of the swirls when I used the yellow pad.



I ended up buying the sampler kit (one of each pad + backing plate) and then another of each pad except gray (finishing pad), so I have 2 of each. I cant compare them to other pads, but I can say Ive been working with them for about a week, have used every pad except the 2 blue and 1 gray, and have seen no ill effects (no velcro pad separation, Ive cleaned them a couple times and they come out looking brand new). Good product!



-Chris
 
The Excel pads look EXACTLY like the Sonus pads. I'm assuming they are the same but are a dollar or two less a piece?



Since those have a similarity are the Excel microfiber towels the same as some of the Sonus ones?
 
To clean them, Im letting them soak in a mix of REALLY hot water and Dawn detergent for about 30 minutes. Then Ill take them out and wring each one out into the hot water mix, dipping it back into the hot water/suds until after I wring it out I can tell there is no more product left (you'll tell, "product water" comes out milky, not like just soapy water). Once Im satisfied there is no more product left, Ill start spraying it down with warm/cold water, and wringing it out under the running water until that water comes out clear.



Then I squeeze out the excess water (between folded halves of a WW towel works very well, you can actually use the pad very shortly afterward), and either go back to working on the car or just let them air dry overnight.



Be advised, SSR1 seems to stain any pad its used on. I believe this was confirmed from Poorboy himself as "normal" (he said SSR1 stains his pads too, so it must be normal). For SSR1 pads, I use the same procedure, maybe put a little more effort into it because the stain will always be there, I just like to make sure all of the old product is out of the pad.



-Chris
 
chris01i30 said:
To clean them, Im letting them soak in a mix of REALLY hot water and Dawn detergent for about 30 minutes. Then Ill take them out and wring each one out into the hot water mix, dipping it back into the hot water/suds until after I wring it out I can tell there is no more product left (you'll tell, "product water" comes out milky, not like just soapy water). Once Im satisfied there is no more product left, Ill start spraying it down with warm/cold water, and wringing it out under the running water until that water comes out clear.



Then I squeeze out the excess water (between folded halves of a WW towel works very well, you can actually use the pad very shortly afterward), and either go back to working on the car or just let them air dry overnight.



Be advised, SSR1 seems to stain any pad its used on. I believe this was confirmed from Poorboy himself as "normal" (he said SSR1 stains his pads too, so it must be normal). For SSR1 pads, I use the same procedure, maybe put a little more effort into it because the stain will always be there, I just like to make sure all of the old product is out of the pad.



-Chris
Cool thanks. That's the same way I clean my 7.5 Lake Country pads. I've also found that ssr1 stains pads. The first time I used it I must have spent an hour washing and rinsing the pad until I figured as long as the water comming out of the pad looks clean I should be ok.
 
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