Oxidation???

[Custom Care]

Decided to start working on my 91' Dodge Ram 50 daily driver. I believe the entire truck has a severe case of oxidation. I messed with the hood a bit today to test some things.

Wash - CG EcoSmart Waterless
Decon - CG Blue clay w/ synthetic detailer for lube

First I removed the bug shield on the front to see what the paint used to look like.

Next I used some Meg's UC, yellow wool pad and G110v2.

Just to double check is that oxidation that I'm dealing with???

This weekend I will put the 5" BP on my G110 and go back over the hood with a MF pad and D300, don't have high hopes of the D300 cutting through but hopefully D101 will have enough bite because other than Meg's UC that's the most cut that I think I've got around the house. Any ideas, tips, or suggestions would be appreciated. Thought about using this opportunity to do a little experimentation with wet sanding but I fear the paint will be super thin.

 

[Orinda Auto Detail]

That looks like Oxidation to me, hard to tell from the pics though. Usually on something like that I would try M105 or for oxidation I prefer 3M perfect it compound and wool on a rotary then normal polishing steps. The important thing is to make sure your not just "shining" it up and actually removing the oxidation.
Your gonna have to go pretty aggressive it on it. Usually even my first polishing step after cutting I'll still use something really aggressive just for the extra bite. UC actually would be a good choice for this since you have it. Far as sanding goes.. Well I've never had a lot of luck sanding paint oxidation until after it was removed. Doesn't make since but you can buff the heck out of it and no real problems but touch it with sand paper before its removed and you go straight through(at least that's what I've experienced). I did a red BMW that looked very much like that. I'll see if I can throw a quickie write up for ya to show you what I did!

 

[tropicsteve]

one good thing is, that no matter what you do to it, it will look better than it does now.

 

[Custom Care]

That looks like Oxidation to me, hard to tell from the pics though. Usually on something like that I would try M105 or for oxidation I prefer 3M perfect it compound and wool on a rotary then normal polishing steps. The important thing is to make sure your not just "shining" it up and actually removing the oxidation.
Your gonna have to go pretty aggressive it on it. Usually even my first polishing step after cutting I'll still use something really aggressive just for the extra bite. UC actually would be a good choice for this since you have it. Far as sanding goes.. Well I've never had a lot of luck sanding paint oxidation until after it was removed. Doesn't make since but you can buff the heck out of it and no real problems but touch it with sand paper before its removed and you go straight through(at least that's what I've experienced). I did a red BMW that looked very much like that. I'll see if I can throw a quickie write up for ya to show you what I did!

Thanks for the information. Looks like I might have the opportunity to use a rotary for the first time, if I can get my hands on one somehow. How do you think the Bigfoot and a wool pad would handle the oxidation compared to a rotary?

 

[Custom Care]

one good thing is, that no matter what you do to it, it will look better than it does now.

Lol, that is an unfortunate truth. The upside is if I can get the paint reconditioned I know for sure of 2 or 3 jobs at work that I could land from doing so.

 

[Orinda Auto Detail]

Not enough pics to do a write up lol. So I'll put them here for.

On the top of the car where its always the worse my steps were 3m perfect it with heavy cut wool on a rotary(an MF cutting disc on DA should work for this with M105 and some water to keep it working with some patients. Compressed air will be your friend as you pad will get loaded up quick with dead paint) Then I used Orange foam and SRC Compound on a rotary with an Orange pad(UC and yellow should work for this with DA again compressed air is going to be your friend along with patients. Oxidation removal with a DA is WORK) Then I used a white pad and SRC Compound just to refine the paint more and make sure all the wool buffer halos were gone(Probably skip this and goto a finishing polish with some mild cutting pad green, white) Then I hit it with a white pad again and SRC finishing polish. There's a theme with always wanting some cut through all the steps in oxidation removal for me to ensure you remove it and not just shine up the paint. Hope this helps! If you have any questions feel free to aks

 

[Orinda Auto Detail]

Thanks for the information. Looks like I might have the opportunity to use a rotary for the first time, if I can get my hands on one somehow. How do you think the Bigfoot and a wool pad would handle the oxidation compared to a rotary?

Haven't tryed a big foot on oxidation yet.... I actually dont think I would lol unless it was for finishing. I think big foot would be a head ache with a million pads getting destroyed trying to do oxidation with it lol.

Big foot did this with finishing polish and an MF finishing disc though in about 10 minutes lol

 

[Custom Care]

Today I started round 2 of the Oxidation removal:

M105 w/ Meg MF Cutting Disc
UC w/ LC Cyan H2O

Multiple passes with both left me with a nice shiny, smooth, and reflective surface that still has a ways to go to get through all that oxidation. It's hard to tell in the photos but you can see where I've cut through some of the darker oxidation to begin revealing the lighter color of the paint.

I'm not sure but I believe all the grainy looking stuff and pinholes are the layer of oxidation on top of the paint.

At this point I'm not sure what to do next. Do I continue to try and cut through the compound with M105? Possibly give M101 a try on the surbuf MF's I've got coming in this weekend followed up my UC on a yellow CCS?

With all the time this process is taking, 2 hrs an a 1/4 of the hood, I wonder if my time would be better spent picking up a rotary and going and learning how to use it . If I'm on the right track with the DA then I will keep on pushing through because the oxidation is worst on the hood and roof, the rest of the truck I don't think will be too bad.

 

[tropicsteve]

Today I started round 2 of the Oxidation removal:

M105 w/ Meg MF Cutting Disc
UC w/ LC Cyan H2O

Multiple passes with both left me with a nice shiny, smooth, and reflective surface that still has a ways to go to get through all that oxidation. It's hard to tell in the photos but you can see where I've cut through some of the darker oxidation to begin revealing the lighter color of the paint.

I'm not sure but I believe all the grainy looking stuff and pinholes are the layer of oxidation on top of the paint.

At this point I'm not sure what to do next. Do I continue to try and cut through the compound with M105? Possibly give M101 a try on the surbuf MF's I've got coming in this weekend followed up my UC on a yellow CCS?

With all the time this process is taking, 2 hrs an a 1/4 of the hood, I wonder if my time would be better spent picking up a rotary and going and learning how to use it . If I'm on the right track with the DA then I will keep on pushing through because the oxidation is worst on the hood and roof, the rest of the truck I don't think will be too bad.

todd wrote a good article on finishing with m105, you might give it a quick review.http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums...nishing-meguiars-m105-ultra-cut-compound.html

 

[Orinda Auto Detail]

If you pick up a rotary make sure you go tape crazy on that thing. Also work at really low speeds 1000rpm and keep your pad really flat. You'll probably feel like you want to turn up the speed a bit but I'd fight that urge till you get use to holding it.