Oxidation removal

9D4E420

9D4E420

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:help:Recently I bought a 93 Nissan Sentra SE-R as a daily beater. The paint is single stage black and all original with a decent amount of oxidation and swirls. I used SSR2.5 with a LC orange pad with my rotary and instantly the pad turned black. Then I did the same with SSR1 and a white pad and the pad instantly turned black. Third, I did BH by hand and a ton of black on the pad.:wall

Now my question is what should I do switch to PP and a wool blend pad?:) I'm not sure if there will be any paint left. :eek: Oxidation removal is the main concern not sure if swirl removal will be safe.

I'd take some pics but the car is getting a new headliner. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.:thanks
 
I don't have your answer, but I can tell you from experience, it can be a very short step from shiny paint to no paint on old, oxidized SS paint.
Isn't Pro Polish a chemical cleaner?
It would seem to be a logical choice to remove the oxidation and as little paint as possible.
 
9D4E420 said:
:help:Recently I bought a 93 Nissan Sentra SE-R as a daily beater. The paint is single stage black and all original with a decent amount of oxidation and swirls. I used SSR2.5 with a LC orange pad with my rotary and instantly the pad turned black. Then I did the same with SSR1 and a white pad and the pad instantly turned black. Third, I did BH by hand and a ton of black on the pad.:wall

Now my question is what should I do switch to PP and a wool blend pad?:) I'm not sure if there will be any paint left. :eek: Oxidation removal is the main concern not sure if swirl removal will be safe.

I'd take some pics but the car is getting a new headliner. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.:thanks
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Personally I would have attacked first with either Polish w/ Carnauba or Polish w /Sealant and a polishing pad... reason being that you want to de-oxidize the paint first with minimal good paint removal, and being that you probably don't know how much paint is actually on the car you might want to do it in steps and not cut the paint and with either of the PwS or PwC there would be some protection between applications. After you have the clean paint you are trying to achieve, then you can decide or test whether you want to go after swirls and scratches... oh well just my thoughts:idea
 
Thanks for the quick reply Steve! I got PwS here and white pads so I'll give that a shot tomorrow when the car comes back from the trim shop. Do you think I should continue to use the rotary or switch to the PC?
 
9D4E420 said:
Thanks for the quick reply Steve! I got PwS here and white pads so I'll give that a shot tomorrow when the car comes back from the trim shop. Do you think I should continue to use the rotary or switch to the PC?
Click to expand...

either way...but the rotary at about 1200rpm should make easy work of it ;)
 
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