Original antique car finishes

I am new to this site looking for some guidence.

I have 3 very low milage antique cars in above average original condition with original finishes - a '46 Nash 600, a '47 Buick Roadmaster, and a '58 Rambler Custom. All three are black. I plan to detail them in the spring and am wondering if there are any do's or don't's regarding non-clearcoated finishes.

I searched through the forum and could not find any reference to this.

Thanks for any advice. I have a PC that I plan on using.
 
47 Roadmaster said:
I am new to this site looking for some guidence.

I have 3 very low milage antique cars in above average original condition with original finishes - a '46 Nash 600, a '47 Buick Roadmaster, and a '58 Rambler Custom. All three are black. I plan to detail them in the spring and am wondering if there are any do's or don't's regarding non-clearcoated finishes.

I searched through the forum and could not find any reference to this.

Thanks for any advice. I have a PC that I plan on using.
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First of all congrats on having the opportunity to have such a cool project(s) to work on.

First, and probably the most obvious question.. How much experience and how comfortable are you with polishing paint with a Dual-Action polisher? While it is stating the usual, this isn't the type of project that somebody who doesn't have adequate experience should take on. (Note: I am not trying to question your judgment but rather making a blanket statement to anybody who might read the thread!).

I have had the pleasure of working on some of the rarest and most valuable original paint automobiles in the world. Perhaps the rarest, scariest, and most challenging was this 427 Shelby Cobra, still dressed in 100% factory original paint (complete with slight lacquer checking near the head lights). This is the finest condition original paint (the others are very rough from what I have heard/read) and the ONLY Shelby Cobra to to receive 100 points at the Shelby Nationals. To say it is the finest example of an original 427 Cobra would likely be accurate. One burnt edge or twisted paint could result in a loss of value approaching 7 figures as the unique prominence of being the best, most original, most accurate, and most preserved 427 would be ruined.

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The oldest original paint I have worked on was the mid '50s Austin Healey that was mostly polished by Ryan Blanchette.

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Other notables include an original paint '69 Boss 429 Mustang...

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An original paint '74 Lamborghini LP-400 'Periscopo' Countach

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The last 289 GT-40 ever made...

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and finally (for this list) an original paint Lamborghini Miura...

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My experience on working on rare and original paint has led me to the following conclusions.

Perhaps the largest/most severe consequence could be the actual paint 'twisting' of the body panel. Remember that the metal, primer, and paint is over 50 years old. If there has been any de-lamination of the primer to the substrate or the paint to the primer, then any mechanical motion of the machine could quickly damage the paint.

Due your due diligence when inspecting the paint prior to polishing. Look for any bubbles, excessive shrinkage, and/or any signs that the paint is not healthy. Light lacquer checking is okay, heavy cracking isn't.

If the paint checks out then the next step is to inspect the paint from different angles in different lighting. You are looking for any areas that might have a different hue, or for thin spots in the paint were the primer may be visible under the paint. Finally inspect all of the edges and compound corners looking for paint blends or burned edges. If the car is 50 years old and has original paint there is likely some evidence of a repair somewhere in its history. Take your time and look for any evidence you can.

Finally when you are ready to start polishing I would recommend that you visually inspect the area again, making sure you didn't skip. Then work with in your skill level and comfort zone, starting lightly and increasing your pressure as your confidence grows with the paint system. Always err on the side of caution. You can only have original paint once, so set realistic goals and proceed slowly.

As a side note about lacquer check, I have found that most lacquer check is very polishable. However you don't want to put any heat into the paint as the heat cycle could potentially increase the check. For this reason I actually prefer a rotary polisher on heavily checked panels as I like the direct control that the linear motion provides and it allows me to more precisely control the heat being transferred to the paint.

As far as the actual polishing theory goes, it is basically the same. Start with the least aggressive method or work up from their (if necessary). Keep in mind that the old enamel and lacquer paints tend to 'clog' up the paints a little faster, so you will want to have enough pads to get the job done and clean them often.

Best of luck, welcome to the forum, and let us know how it turns out!

Todd
 
I have polished many 50-60-year-old vehicles with original paint.

First rule... Err on the side of caution!

The paint is normally oxidized and thin. I will always start with the least aggressive polish, least aggressive pad, and VERY little pressure. Concentrate in dramatically improving the appearance without being obsessed with making it perfect. Those type of "survivor" vehicles are never worth as much if they have to be repainted!

Just some thoughts. Good luck and have fun.

Here are a few I've done with original paint....

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:D:D:D
 
Thanks for the advice gentlemen! I will keep it in mind as I decide how I am going to proceed. Indeed I am not looking for perfection. A hand applied coat of Mother's cleaner wax made a huge difference so "doing it right" ought to look pretty awesome.

Thanks again. I will be "studying" you experts over winter.
 
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