Orange peel-how can be removed??

I would think that you would need to wet sand the area in order to remove the OP. I've seen this done on my car.
 
pampos said:
I just wondering if i can 'repair' the orange peel by polishing or if it is necessary to wet sand it??
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Another factor to consider: perhaps the color coat is orange-peeled. In that case, doing anything to the clear coat will not correct that.

The clear coat is just a layer of paint, albeit clear. IMHO, if the factory is doing something wrong in the clear coat process, such as bad nozzles, inadequate drying time, wrong paint dilution, etc, to cause the clear coat to orange peel, chances are they're doing the same thing when applying the color coat.

In any case, the majority of UV protection present in the clear coat migrates to the top layers during the painting process. Which means whenever you remove or level the clear coat, you're depleting the UV protectorants.

I guess what I'm trying to say is.....live with the orange peel.
 
I would pull out the sandpaper and rotary for orange peel removal. I also like to try a small section first to make sure it is indeed correctable, in case it is under the clear like mentioned above.
 
hehe i just wet sanded my door on my 01 suburban yesterday. used a foam block, and then the flex and some diamond cut 1.5 followed by fp micro polish, ez creme glaze and butter wet wax. the look compared to a non sanded panel is amazing. it actually looks flat and mirror like. i'll try and post pics later
 
I would say 3k is a safe start. I wouldn't go anything lower than 2000, but take my words with a decent grain of salt, I'm not a body tech nor do I do some of the wetsanding some people do on here.
 
advs1 said:
hehe i just wet sanded my door on my 01 suburban yesterday. used a foam block, and then the flex and some diamond cut 1.5 followed by fp micro polish, ez creme glaze and butter wet wax. the look compared to a non sanded panel is amazing. it actually looks flat and mirror like. i'll try and post pics later
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That will be good...let me know when you posted them pls
 
Pampos- Yeah, you gotta wetsand to remove OP, polishing *never* does it IME as the pad/produt just follows the texture of the OP (usually even on ss lacquer, *always* on b/c).



I'd certainly use an ETG if you're gonna try this. No point leveling paint only to have it fail in a year or three.



3K Unigrit is very safe and easy to use, and the scratches come out easily. I'd avoid 3M 2K as some versions of it leave "tracers" that're a lot deeper/worse than 2K oughta be.



wannafbody said:
If you use 2000 then you'll need a rotary and wool pads along with some Megs 95 to remove the marks.
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IME it depends on whose 2K paper you use.



I've removed 2K Meguiar's/Nikken scratches from factory Audi clear *by hand* (OK...I'll admit it took a while). I just experimented with some 3.5" PFW pads on the PC, and using 1z Pasta Intensiv I removed 2.5-3K scratches *so* easily that I'd fully expect 2K ones to come out easily too.
 
Accumulator said:
Pampos- Yeah, you gotta wetsand to remove OP, polishing *never* does it IME as the pad/produt just follows the texture of the OP (usually even on ss lacquer, *always* on b/c).



I'd certainly use an ETG if you're gonna try this. No point leveling paint only to have it fail in a year or three.



3K Unigrit is very safe and easy to use, and the scratches come out easily. I'd avoid 3M 2K as some versions of it leave "tracers" that're a lot deeper/worse than 2K oughta be.







IME it depends on whose 2K paper you use.



I've removed 2K Meguiar's/Nikken scratches from factory Audi clear *by hand* (OK...I'll admit it took a while). I just experimented with some 3.5" PFW pads on the PC, and using 1z Pasta Intensiv I removed 2.5-3K scratches *so* easily that I'd fully expect 2K ones to come out easily too.
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:thx

where i can find 3K Unigrit?? also what is ETG ???
 
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