Optimum Compound not cutting...

N

noooorb

New member
Hey guys I just got around to detailing my dad's 2005 Altima (will post pics later). It wasn't too cared for until now (before I became an autopian), but it definitely wasn't very neglected either. It was at a machine car wash maybe twice.

I get around to it and after claying, I notice light swirls in the paint. I didn't think I had would have any problem with it. I tried OP on white pad (PC on 6) with no luck - ok so I go to OC on a orange pad, and the swirls are still there. At this point I was a little suprised, and moved to OC on a yellow pad. I worked that in well (I know Optimum products take a while to work in) but still, the swirls were there. Arggg.

From browsing these forums in the past, I know that others have gotten worse swirls out with less aggressive products, so I am wondering what went wrong? :nixweiss

I've had great results with OP before, and this is my first time trying to use OC (the new formula). I finished the detail and the car looks good, but I am not happy knowing the swirls are still there.



PS. The swirls really showed only under direct sunlight, and not really under halogen light.
 
Pictures would help. Since you seem to understand that you have the work the polish for a while, I'll assume that's not the problem. Maybe the swirling is pretty severe?
 
You seem to have a good cutting polish and good cutting pad, so I would think (without knowing your process) you would need to slow it down, move over the surface very slowely and try putting some pressure on it too, you need heat to remove the swirls. See if that works better.:waxing:
 
Another bump here for the hard paint, and possible need for OHC. I had to make two passes on my car with OHC on an orange pad to make a big dent in the swirls on my black GM paint. But then it was really badly swirled too.
 
I had the same problem when I used Optimum for the first time and discovered that I was using WAY too much. It wasn't shifting even the lightest swirls. I had to cut back to a couple of pea-sized drops per panel (once the pad was loaded) to restore the cutting action.
 
Scottwax said:
Some of the Nissans and Infinitis I have detailed have really hard paint. You might have to bump up to OHC.
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Can you effectively work OHC in with a PC? I've got it in my arsenal but I've never tried to use it, how long do you have to work it in for and at what speeds, I'm kind of scared to use it!!!
 
D3mon said:
I had the same problem when I used Optimum for the first time and discovered that I was using WAY too much. It wasn't shifting even the lightest swirls. I had to cut back to a couple of pea-sized drops per panel (once the pad was loaded) to restore the cutting action.
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I have been learning fast that i have been doing the same thing





BTW I did a maxima the other day and it kicked my butt very hard CC
 
sftempest66 said:
Can you effectively work OHC in with a PC? I've got it in my arsenal but I've never tried to use it, how long do you have to work it in for and at what speeds, I'm kind of scared to use it!!!
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The old OHC yes, the new one only on harder paints. The new version of OC has the same cut as the old OHC, btw.



I do all PC defect removal with the speed on 6 (after spreading the product over the area on 5) and push down hard enough to lightly bog the PC and then let up just enough for the speed to pick up again and use that pressure. Move the PC about 1" per second using 50% overlapping passes. Takes several passes to break down OHC or OC. It will begin to clear out somewhat as it breaks down. Helpful hint: If the product is hard to remove, you are using too much or not working it long enough.
 
Scottwax said:
The old OHC yes, the new one only on harder paints. The new version of OC has the same cut as the old OHC, btw.



I do all PC defect removal with the speed on 6 (after spreading the product over the area on 5) and push down hard enough to lightly bog the PC and then let up just enough for the speed to pick up again and use that pressure. Move the PC about 1" per second using 50% overlapping passes. Takes several passes to break down OHC or OC. It will begin to clear out somewhat as it breaks down. Helpful hint: If the product is hard to remove, you are using too much or not working it long enough.
Click to expand...



You wouldn't happen to have a picture of what it looks like broken down would you?
 
Scottwax wrote:



The old OHC yes, the new one only on harder paints. The new version of OC has the same cut as the old OHC, btw.
Click to expand...



So, to get more swirl removal than I am getting with OP and using a PC only, should I go with the new OC or OHP?



Sorry......the caffeine hasn't kicked in yet!! LOL!!
 
You may want to try a more abrasive pad. OC is a very mild compound and requires more "pad" participation. This is one of the reasons why a little OP/OC works better then the normally polishing amounts used. Too much product will not allow the pad to contact the surface sufficiently enough to breakdown the abrasives when floating on the lube. More pressure, more abrasive pad and a lot of patience may be all that's needed.



Meguiar's makes a burgundy pad that works great on my ultra-hard Z06 clearcoat when using a PC.
 
I am using a CCS Yellow pad and have tried working it in for an excess of 3-5 minutes. I was kinda hoping that that would be enough! LOL!! I have a Megs maroon pad....don't really care for it but I guess I might have to give it a shot!! Thanks!
 
mose said:
I am using a CCS Yellow pad and have tried working it in for an excess of 3-5 minutes. I was kinda hoping that that would be enough! LOL!! I have a Megs maroon pad....don't really care for it but I guess I might have to give it a shot!! Thanks!
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I understand your reservation about the burgundy pad. It is way too abrasive for most vehicles. On extremely hard CC with a mild compound like OC, you should have no problems.:2thumbs:
 
blkz28: Thanks.....I guess I will just keep trying and see what happens.



klraudio: I really like the CCS pads a lot!!!
 
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