Opti-coat and repaints
- Thread starter tguil
- Start date
imported_PiPUK
New member
Do you refer to the bonding of paint to the opticoat?
Optimum suggest that almost nothing will adhere, after opticoat has fully cured. If so, this would present an issue. You would need to have the area prepared such that the opticoat was removed. There have been numerous comments which go against this, it seems likely that it is plausible that products will adhere, even after OC is fully cured. With a well formulated paint which will incorporate adhesion promoters, it is even more likely to be possible. BUT - Optimum have not told us exactly what the OC coat is and thus you could not be certain that the adhesion promoters are the right adhesion promoters (if a paint manufacturer felt the need, it would be easy to work out, but I am sure none would be adequately concerned). As such, I would make every effort to remove the OC before getting paint work done, just to be certain.
Optimum suggest that almost nothing will adhere, after opticoat has fully cured. If so, this would present an issue. You would need to have the area prepared such that the opticoat was removed. There have been numerous comments which go against this, it seems likely that it is plausible that products will adhere, even after OC is fully cured. With a well formulated paint which will incorporate adhesion promoters, it is even more likely to be possible. BUT - Optimum have not told us exactly what the OC coat is and thus you could not be certain that the adhesion promoters are the right adhesion promoters (if a paint manufacturer felt the need, it would be easy to work out, but I am sure none would be adequately concerned). As such, I would make every effort to remove the OC before getting paint work done, just to be certain.
My question concerns repaints after a body shop has removed or attempted to remove the Opti-coat. How can one be sure that all of the Opti-coat has been removed and what happens if the shop misses some. Frequently when a whole panel doesn't need a repair/repaint, the damaged area receives base coat which is blended into the rest of the panel and then the whole panel is cleared. What procedures should a shop use for the area that just receives the clear coat. The shop that I go to uses PrepSol on the whole area that will be painted, scuffs the area, shoots an adhesion/blending promoter to the scuffed area and then shoots the clear. They use a water-borne base coat and a solvent-based clear coat.
Nth Degree
New member
I tell my Opti-Coat customers that it is critical that they inform any body shops or painters that the car has Opti-Coat and that it must be removed before painting the panel and if there are any questions that they should contact me first. It doesn't take much sanding or compounding to remove the Opti-Coat but it absolutely should be done. There is just no reason to cheap out at that point to save a little time when the risk is having to start all over and do it right later anyway.
This is one of the downsides to Opti-Coat that I feel is often not disclosed when being sold to the customer.
This is one of the downsides to Opti-Coat that I feel is often not disclosed when being sold to the customer.
C. Charles Hahn
CCH Auto Appearance, LLC
Nth Degree said:
I wouldn't consider that a "downside" as much as a technicality that needs to be disclosed.
Nth Degree
New member
C. Charles Hahn said:
Tom-ay-to, tom-ah-to. Just that any work that needs to be done might require additional work and, thus additional cost.
I'm not as concerned about detailers mentioning it, as I'm sure all the quality, honest ones do, the people who DIY it and don't fully understand the product.
maxepr1
New member
Body shops will be wiping down around bondo area's if not sanding it. These will both remove Opti-Coat. I would mention it to the shop. I've had a few clients cars go in and talking with the shop they experienced no problems. If there not prepping the car properly, paint won't adhere properly anyway. Shops cutting corners, you get what you pay for.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Here are a few key points about Opti-Coat:
**Anytime a body shop is painting a panel, they will be scuffing it with sandpaper to promote adhesion for the paint to stick. This process will totally strip any coating that is on the surface.
**I'm also under the impression that on a very small level that like paint, Opti-Coat can be scuffed with a light finishing polish and this will allow the existing coated surface to bond to a new one.
**Opti-Coat is safe for fresh paint as is all the other Optimum paint protectants.
**Anytime a body shop is painting a panel, they will be scuffing it with sandpaper to promote adhesion for the paint to stick. This process will totally strip any coating that is on the surface.
**I'm also under the impression that on a very small level that like paint, Opti-Coat can be scuffed with a light finishing polish and this will allow the existing coated surface to bond to a new one.
**Opti-Coat is safe for fresh paint as is all the other Optimum paint protectants.
Nth Degree
New member
David Fermani said:
I would think the same 90 day waiting period should be observed, just as with traditional waxes or sealants, no?
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
Nope. Optimum is very open about their waxes/sealants/coatings being able to be applied to fresh paint w/o issue as long as the paint was applied correctly.
Accumulator
Well-known member
David Fermani said:
Thanks for posting that about the OptiCoat.
Regulars here know how I've always been a fanatic about waiting out the curing/outgassing period before applying any LSP, let alone a coating. Some might even recall the (good-natured) :argue between David and myself on this very topic!
But between changes in paint technology (especially the water-based stuff) and developments at Optimum (note that Ford approved OCW for "post-production paintwork" some time ago), the rules have changed in some ways.