Opinions - Topping Silver with carnauba worthwhile?

drck1000

New member
Hello all. Want to get your opinions on whether or not topping a silver car with carnauba is worthwhile. Currently on my car, I have AIO/2xUPP along with HGAS QD. I do like the look and slickness of that combination and am very satisfied. However, that doesn't mean that I can't improve on that. Haven't had it on long enough to comment on the durability yet though. I also have EX-P and KSG as alternate LSP's that I will be using and also have 1Z MP and Glanz Wax as well.



In your personal opinion, what type of look do you prefer on metallic silver? Can you tell that much of a difference it you top a synthetic LSP with carnauba to add depth and wetness? I guess my question comes down to do you think the effect is worth the extra step of topping with carnauba? I understand that darker colors benefit more from that effect, but does it help with lighter colors? Any of your opinions are appreciated? Just trying to decide before jumping in and buying stuff to top with. I do appreciate the deep glossy look of a nicely detailed black car. Just trying to see if it's worth the price of the products and the effort to try on my silver car.



I am mainly looking for durability first. I assume that's accomplished primarily by the synthetic LSP's. Still a newbie to detailing, so be nice if I am asking a stupid question. I am willing to reapply LSP's in intervals between 1-3 months, so perhaps durability shouldn't factor that much into my product selection. I have also heard that KSG leaves a "sterile" look, one that lacks depth and wetness.



Which carnauba's work well with silver? I've read about Poorboy's Natty and Natty Blue, FK1 Pink Wax and 1000P, S100, P21S (kind of pricey), Pinnacle Liquid and Paste (very pricey) and Collinite. I do value ease of application and removal. I am leaning towards trying out FK1 Pink Wax or Natty (havent't decided on regular or blue). I may be relegated to just going out and buying numerous products to try, but as I am sure you all know, that process gets very pricey. This is truely an addiction.



I do have a sample of FK1 Pink Wax that I may try the hood of my dad's light brown metallic SUV to see if I can see a difference. I used AIO/EX-P on his car. My previous car was a millenium silver 4Runner, but I only applied the PermaPlate renewer. That was about the extent of my "detailing".



TIA!
 
I prefer to top my silver car with a carnauba. Does it make a noticeable difference...I don't think so. But it makes the car bead like mad and be very easy to wash. That's worth it right there.



Nattys and Nattys Blue both work great on silver, as does S100. They're all easy to use, and both Nattys smell terrific.
 
I'm of the same opinion as White95Max......I have two silver metallic vehicles. I'm very happy with Natty's over a VM/RMG/UPP combo and switch to Collinte for winter.
 
White95Max said:
. . . it makes the car bead like mad and be very easy to wash. That's worth it right there.



Never even thought about that aspect of it. I just assumed that the synthetics would make it bead pretty good on it's own. Another aspect to take into account besides durability, gloss and depth. Beading and ease of washing.





White95Max said:
Nattys and Nattys Blue both work great on silver, as does S100. They're all easy to use, and both Nattys smell terrific.



I understand that Natty's Blue is tailored to darker colors. If you have to pick between Natty's, Natty's Blue and S100, which would it be? How would you rate each on ease of application and removal? Do either of these stain trim and moldings? One of the things that I like about AIO and UPP or EXP is that they don't stain trim. Not a big deal, but cleaning the trim would just add another step in the process (that's already taking about 3-4 hours without any polishing step).



Thanks again.
 
mtwedt said:
I'm of the same opinion as White95Max......I have two silver metallic vehicles. I'm very happy with Natty's over a VM/RMG/UPP combo and switch to Collinte for winter.



Which Collinite do you use? 845 or the 915? And do you use Natty's or Natty's Blue?
 
Bah, wax is wax for the most part. Nattys Blue works great on light colors, as does Souveran. Paste Glaz (supposedly for light colors) works great on dark colors.

All three that you listed are very easy to use. I'd give a slight edge to S100, but the two Nattys waxes are by no means hard to use. If I had to pick a favorite it would be based on something trivial like scent. In that case, Nattys and Nattys Blue would tie.

None of them will stain trim.
 
drck1000 said:
Which Collinite do you use? 845 or the 915? And do you use Natty's or Natty's Blue?
For the full winter detail, I used a 2 layer spitshine application of 476S Doublecoat followed by 845 IW. I live in the Pacilifc Northwest and have nowhere that I can work indoors, so I protect to the max for winter. I was able to get another coat of 476 on in Febuary after a full wash....I did the original in application in November I think. The incredible shine and gloss provided by the glazes is still there so I have been very happy with this combo. I actually found the 476 quite easy to work with...it was the IW that was a PITA to get to blend by shaking the bottle....I finally had to get a long bladed screwdriver and stir it up. Part of the problem was that the new botlle was totally full and didn't leave enough room for a thick liquid to be shaken up easily.
 
mtwedt said:
For the full winter detail, I used a 2 layer spitshine application of 476S Doublecoat followed by 845 IW. I live in the Pacilifc Northwest and have nowhere that I can work indoors, so I protect to the max for winter. I was able to get another coat of 476 on in Febuary after a full wash....I did the original in application in November I think. The incredible shine and gloss provided by the glazes is still there so I have been very happy with this combo. I actually found the 476 quite easy to work with...it was the IW that was a PITA to get to blend by shaking the bottle....I finally had to get a long bladed screwdriver and stir it up. Part of the problem was that the new botlle was totally full and didn't leave enough room for a thick liquid to be shaken up easily.



Pacific Northwest huh? I used to live in Seattle! I remember when I used to have to bring buckets of warm (started hot) water from inside the house to wash my SUV in the winter time. I used to go snowboarding a lot and after every trip where there was snow or slush on the road, my SUV seemed to get a nice grey coating of grime. Thankfully it all washed off easy enough and I didn't really marr my paint as I never used to use the two bucket method. I guess I was lucky, my townhouse had an enclosed garage where I could wax in relative warmth.
 
I'll be moving to the Pacific Northwest in the next couple years. Washing there in winter will be easy compared to here.
 
I'm getting to be a huge fan of #16 on silver topping sealants - it's about as durable as they come for carnaubas and adds a nice glow to silver.
 
My wife's truck is GM's silver birch. I have yet to find an outstanding combo, but the best look yet was achieved with Poorboys EX topped with Natty's blue. I've pretty much given up on bringing out the metallic and have been concentrating on a wet, deep look. So, in this case...yes.



I've detailed a couple of silver Mercedes, and on the second one I did try P21S on top of Four Star UPP. Certainly didn't look bad, but didn't really do anything for me or the owner.
 
firegate said:
I'm getting to be a huge fan of #16 on silver topping sealants - it's about as durable as they come for carnaubas and adds a nice glow to silver.



Where do you get your #16 from? I found a supplier on Amazon.com, but they don't ship outside the continental 48.
 
VroomVroom said:
My wife's truck is GM's silver birch. I have yet to find an outstanding combo, but the best look yet was achieved with Poorboys EX topped with Natty's blue. I've pretty much given up on bringing out the metallic and have been concentrating on a wet, deep look. So, in this case...yes.



I've detailed a couple of silver Mercedes, and on the second one I did try P21S on top of Four Star UPP. Certainly didn't look bad, but didn't really do anything for me or the owner.



I do like the way UPP looks on my car. It does seem to make the metallic flakes stand out quite a bit. On my dad's light brown metallic, the flakes seem finer. But I also did use EX-P instead of UPP on his car.
 
drck1000 said:
I do like the way UPP looks on my car. It does seem to make the metallic flakes stand out quite a bit..



Same here. I don't top the UPP on my silver Audi as I like it just the way it is.



I used to top the KSG on my silver Mazda minivan and I'll say that it did look a bit better with #16 on it as opposed to just the SG.



But a lot if this will just be personal preference anyhow. I know how I like different silvers to look but I can see somebody else preferring the subtle difference from another LSP instead.
 
drck1000 said:
Where do you get your #16 from? I found a supplier on Amazon.com, but they don't ship outside the continental 48.



There's a local auto parts store here that had a bunch of it left on the shelf for like $16/can. I bought some for myself but they still have 2 or 3 left - if you (or anyone else) wants any, drop me a PM and we can work something out.
 
Natty's Blue, #16, Paste Glaz...all great on silver. However, since I started using the Werkstatt twins, Prime and Acrylic Jett, I feel no need to top with anything other than another layer of AJ.
 
I pretty much agree with Scottwax. I have Jeffs AJ and will try it in May. Right now I use the Klasse twins on my Billet Silver Honda Ridgeline which I purchased last May. I applied AIOx2 and SGx3, allowing 24 hours or so between SG coats. I did this when I first got the truck and then again in November. The durability has been very good and my truck is garaged so I only need do this twice a year. Needless to say I am very pleased with the looks. I see no need to put wax on top of my sealant. If I had a dark color truck that might change but for my color, Klasse is all I need. No matter what you do, silver will not be able to have the "depth" that darker colors can achieve.



Oh, one other thing. I also use good QDs. I've tried a bunch of them including WS, AG, HGAS, 425 among others and all are very good. For my application, however, I think the best thing to use is 3 parts distilled water to one part SG. Put it in a fine spray or mister bottle and use it just like a QD. Although it won't clean very well (PoorBoys WS is for that anyway), this homebrew adds luster and enhances the lsp. It also acts as sort of a rejuvenator since it is afterall SG. I think that as long as the vehicle is really clean (like after your wash), nothing will top this periodic shot in the arm to a silver color if it has SG as the lsp.
 
I really like Pinnacle Souveran and Nattys original on silver. P21S or S100 works very well also.



To maximize flake pop, it's best to have a layer of AIO underneath...maybe AJ is the best these days given the change in formula of AIO. Definitely stay away from Klasse SG as I find it dulls the look.
 
Scottwax said:
Natty's Blue, #16, Paste Glaz...all great on silver. However, since I started using the Werkstatt twins, Prime and Acrylic Jett, I feel no need to top with anything other than another layer of AJ.





I guess prime and AJ work ok on silver. :D



Finished off with Z8.



Gran_Prix_010a.sized.jpg
 
Back
Top