Opinions needed! about to detail black rsx!

S

Scud1373

New member
ok, my 2006 NBP rsx type s is about to get detailed. owned the car for around 3-4 months and swirls are appearing. i can only see the swirls at night under some sodium lighting, and during the day ,its barely visible. after doing research on this site, my steps were going to be...



1) wash and claybar and wash again

2) dry with chamois or waffleweave

3) Poorboys SSR2 applied with rotary

4) Poorboys SSR1 appllied same

3) Clearkotes Vanilla Moose

4) Meguairs NXT wax



Does this sound good, the swirls i have are minimal but its just irratating to look at. if anyone can help me out on this, id be very appreciated. o yea, another thing i noticed was that the vanilla moose said it was meant to remove those "spiderweb swirls". anyone have any idea what this means?
 
ssr1 and vm are counterproductive. VM has light abrasives in it. heck using a rotary on marks as light as you say they are, you may even be able to get by with just using VM on the rotary.
 
Neothin said:
ssr1 and vm are counterproductive. VM has light abrasives in it. heck using a rotary on marks as light as you say they are, you may even be able to get by with just using VM on the rotary.
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hmmm counter productive? as in they will cancel each other out? so should i just throw the VM out of the list and use ssr2 and ssr1 alone? i read in another post somewhere that someone did this set up except used ssr2.5 , which is where i got the idea from. mmmm... anything you can suggest that wont "counter product" each other. i just wanna make sure the swirls are pretty much gone. thanks! :2thumbs:
 
nonono, i mean using ssr1 and vm will accomplish the same thing, light haze/swirl removal. I would use VM alone. Not only does VM have light abrasives for polishing out light swirling/hazing, it also leaves behind a layer of oils which will add depth and wetness to your black paint.
 
Neothin said:
nonono, i mean using ssr1 and vm will accomplish the same thing, light haze/swirl removal. I would use VM alone. Not only does VM have light abrasives for polishing out light swirling/hazing, it also leaves behind a layer of oils which will add depth and wetness to your black paint.
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Mmmmm... i c i c. thanks for the input! i guess i'll just be using the SSR2 and VM. if you have anymore suggestions to give to me , id be appreciated! thanks. :)
 
question: will the NXT bond well to the VM?



I'd figure that you'd want to follow up the VM with CMW.
 
Do you own a pc? I would be hesitant to bust out the rotary on a brand new car especially if its very light marring. I have not tried VM but can tell you that I think that SSR1 would do the job have used it on my NBP tsx with light marring (swirls) with really good results. If that dont cut it then step up to SSR2.
 
ceiol said:
question: will the NXT bond well to the VM?



I'd figure that you'd want to follow up the VM with CMW.
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alright you got me, whats CMW? as you can see im still kinda new to all the products out there. im getting kinda confused now. :nervous2: mmm... so if the swirls are that minimal, you think SSR1 alone can handle it? i mean, at night the swirls are definately noticable with some correct lighting on it. i just want to ensure they are mostly gone....

Sorry i cant provide any pics at the moment, but yea. SSR1 alone with some wax.. enough to cover it up? or should i use SSR2, SSR1, and some wax. or SSR2, VM, wax. whats better, VM or SSR1? aahh sorry, i got a headache since im taking a break from studying for my midterm and now this is confusing me. !!! ~~



Edit: CMW ... cleakote moose wax??
 
since we are somewhat on the topic of ssr1, do you think it would be strong enough to remove old wax/sealants? would it be too abrasive to use monthly?
 
Scud1373 said:
ok, my 2006 NBP rsx type s is about to get detailed. owned the car for around 3-4 months and swirls are appearing. i can only see the swirls at night under some sodium lighting, and during the day ,its barely visible. after doing research on this site, my steps were going to be...



1) wash and claybar and wash again

2) dry with chamois or waffleweave

3) Poorboys SSR2 applied with rotary

4) Poorboys SSR1 appllied same

3) Clearkotes Vanilla Moose

4) Meguairs NXT wax



Does this sound good, the swirls i have are minimal but its just irratating to look at. if anyone can help me out on this, id be very appreciated. o yea, another thing i noticed was that the vanilla moose said it was meant to remove those "spiderweb swirls". anyone have any idea what this means?
Click to expand...



I had a black daily driver for five years. I know the pain of Black car. Most marring scratching comes from cleaning and buffing with cheap towels and dirty wash mits.

Basically my advice to you is:

1-Don't use any towels on your car EVER that are cheap.

2-Buy a dozen Sonus Der Wunder towels(closed loops not open like most MF) and don't let anything else touch your paint.

3-Use the the Der Wunder Wasche to keep the towels cleans and don't use fabric softener.

4-When you are forced to go to a car wash don't let them dry your car with their terry towels that are probably full of sediments from previous cars. Keep an Absorber or squeege blade in your car and give it to them to dry with.



All the big name waxes on the market are adequate-excellent. But black cars require the extra care of non-marking/scratching towels.
 
=) thanks for the info. yea, i can see how painful its gonna be to take care of this car in the future. but damn, when its clean, its sick!
 
Usually you want to start with your least abrasive swirlmark remover then move onto more abrasive SMRs if the one you used didn't suffice. Also, it's suggested that you use a PC rather than a rotary considering the conditions you described.
 
I don't mind the extra work to keep a Black car looking showroom because the reward is much bigger than any other color. The problem is that if you use the wrong towels and wash mits over time the nature of Black paint reveals all your mistakes. Like polishing in circles, not flipping the towel frequently enough, and using cheap towels. over time Black turns into a public laundry list of all your detailing mistakes, its very unforgiving. Best to be on your best behavior. I had the hood of my hood repainted to install a new bumper and in record time my cheap auto store towels had swirled up the paint. Lesson learned.
 
mmm... so my question is...

1) Should i just use SSR1 OR the vanilla moose alone and follow up with wax?

or

2) should i use SSR2, SSR1 or VM, and wax.



I'll try see if i can borrow a PC from my friend, most likely they got. But yea, is it better to play it safe and use light abrasives such as SSR1 alone or should i just assure the swirls will be gone with SSR2 and SSR1? Sorry, im sounding repetitve but i just gotta make sure! thanks.
 
Scud1373 said:
mmm... so my question is...

1) Should i just use SSR1 OR the vanilla moose alone and follow up with wax?

or

2) should i use SSR2, SSR1 or VM, and wax.



I'll try see if i can borrow a PC from my friend, most likely they got. But yea, is it better to play it safe and use light abrasives such as SSR1 alone or should i just assure the swirls will be gone with SSR2 and SSR1? Sorry, im sounding repetitve but i just gotta make sure! thanks.
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I used on my black G35 SSR 2.5, CVM, EX (Sealant), and finally Natty's Blue (LSP). So far...very shiny and beading well after 6 weeks....I also use OCW (spray wax) after each wash......much easier to maintain!!! Used PC to do work....



You cannot get rid of every scratch or swirl....as someone posted earlier but can get rid of most of them....black is hard to hide stuff....



Why not go SSR 2, VM, sealant?, and then wax......
 
truthfully... if your going to maintain your car like an autopian, you're not really going to need the durability of sealant. I know I used to use a sealant on my own car all the time. Now though, I've kinda stopped doing that. I realized that by waxing every 3 weeks or so, I don't need the durability that a sealant provides. If this is what you're going to be like, I doubt your going to need the sealant either.
 
Neothin said:
truthfully... if your going to maintain your car like an autopian, you're not really going to need the durability of sealant. I know I used to use a sealant on my own car all the time. Now though, I've kinda stopped doing that. I realized that by waxing every 3 weeks or so, I don't need the durability that a sealant provides. If this is what you're going to be like, I doubt your going to need the sealant either.
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Wow Neo! Waxing every three weeks!!! :bow I can't keep up at that pace.....
 
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