qwertydude
New member
Just to show you guys exactly what is possible with just a $20 coleman 6" buffer. This is my dad's BMW. It was a car whose previous owners wrecked. Well he repaired it and even repainted it in the backyard. Long project but just to give an in depth explanation the hood and front quarter panel was replaced and repainted.
The clearcoat used was superhard ppg aircraft clear coat. I suggested he thin it more when painting the hood but he thought it was good straight because it has more hardeners which have a long cure time and should self level. Well it didn't and I spent a long time wet sanding it down to a relatively flat finish and he polished it but not that well left a bunch of swirls and holograms using my rotary (yes I have one but choose not to use it), so forgive this beater bimmer's not quite perfect reflections on the hood because I didn't want to thin the clear too much. The second time around was the front quarter panel, wet sanded in this case 1000 to 2000 grit since it's been about a month so it's cured and ready to polish. Again I didn't wet sand flat so the clear is thicker and the orange peel approximately matches the rest of the car.
Polisher: 6" Coleman
Bonnet: 5-6" Polishmaster A48 wool (pretty sure it's synthetic acrylic not really wool)
Polish: M105 (that's all not even my usual #9 second step)
Get ready to be stunned...
Here's the before. All clayed and my trusty 10+ year old coleman from walmart. Note the depth of that aircraft clear on the hood, it was an overcast day so the next picture is when the sun broke and you can see the swirls on the hood.
Here's a close up of the hood in the sun, note the slight dullness of the clouds and the lack of depth and the SWIRLS!
This is the hood after the M105 only, I'd say since this is a daily driver and doesn't really get all that well cared for it's lsp ready. Note the sharpness of the reflections and very little swirling, they would all but be gone if this wasn't aircraft clear.
This is the wetsanded front left qurater panel. 1000 grit to 2000. Note the upper portion cause in the next picture it's polished with the coleman.
The upper portion is very sharp and swirl free just like the hood, note the polished door's reflection, very sharp in my opinion not even waxed as this is not a detailing post, just polish no lsp pics here.
Just FYI I used collinite 845 immediately after the M105. What's my secret? Like I've always been saying. Use a wool pad/bonnet like the instructions on the M105 says, I go slowly and cover a foot every 20-30 seconds using very light pressure just about the weight of the polisher. I use a thin line across the bonnet's worth of polish per section and do about a 1.5 to 2 foot square at a time. I polish til the M105 flashes away and just about doesn't deposit on the hood. At this point the wool pad is leaving just a smear, then to rejuvenate the at this point broken down polish with a spritz of distilled water. This allows the broken down polish which is very fine at this time to remove the finer swirls instead of using a finer second polish. Nice trick huh?
The clearcoat used was superhard ppg aircraft clear coat. I suggested he thin it more when painting the hood but he thought it was good straight because it has more hardeners which have a long cure time and should self level. Well it didn't and I spent a long time wet sanding it down to a relatively flat finish and he polished it but not that well left a bunch of swirls and holograms using my rotary (yes I have one but choose not to use it), so forgive this beater bimmer's not quite perfect reflections on the hood because I didn't want to thin the clear too much. The second time around was the front quarter panel, wet sanded in this case 1000 to 2000 grit since it's been about a month so it's cured and ready to polish. Again I didn't wet sand flat so the clear is thicker and the orange peel approximately matches the rest of the car.
Polisher: 6" Coleman
Bonnet: 5-6" Polishmaster A48 wool (pretty sure it's synthetic acrylic not really wool)
Polish: M105 (that's all not even my usual #9 second step)
Get ready to be stunned...

Here's the before. All clayed and my trusty 10+ year old coleman from walmart. Note the depth of that aircraft clear on the hood, it was an overcast day so the next picture is when the sun broke and you can see the swirls on the hood.

Here's a close up of the hood in the sun, note the slight dullness of the clouds and the lack of depth and the SWIRLS!

This is the hood after the M105 only, I'd say since this is a daily driver and doesn't really get all that well cared for it's lsp ready. Note the sharpness of the reflections and very little swirling, they would all but be gone if this wasn't aircraft clear.

This is the wetsanded front left qurater panel. 1000 grit to 2000. Note the upper portion cause in the next picture it's polished with the coleman.

The upper portion is very sharp and swirl free just like the hood, note the polished door's reflection, very sharp in my opinion not even waxed as this is not a detailing post, just polish no lsp pics here.
Just FYI I used collinite 845 immediately after the M105. What's my secret? Like I've always been saying. Use a wool pad/bonnet like the instructions on the M105 says, I go slowly and cover a foot every 20-30 seconds using very light pressure just about the weight of the polisher. I use a thin line across the bonnet's worth of polish per section and do about a 1.5 to 2 foot square at a time. I polish til the M105 flashes away and just about doesn't deposit on the hood. At this point the wool pad is leaving just a smear, then to rejuvenate the at this point broken down polish with a spritz of distilled water. This allows the broken down polish which is very fine at this time to remove the finer swirls instead of using a finer second polish. Nice trick huh?