Not seeing expected results from PB's SSR

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OJ_GTI

New member
Today is a nice day so I thought I'd give the car a QEW wash and then try out my SSR 1 and 2.5 with the PC on my 2000 VW GTI (metallic orange). Paint is in good shape but lots of fine swirls.



So I washed, taped off half the hood, clayed the passenger side and washed it again.



1. Set to work with SSR 1 and an LC white pad. Increased speed from 2-5. Didn't see any noticable change.



2. Bumped it up to SSR 2.5 on a new LC white pad. Hmmm, no difference again.



3. Repeated the 2.5 with some pressure. No change.



4. SSR 1 once again. Getting pretty disappointed.



5. Pull of the tape. Can I see where I polished? Nope.



What am I doing wrong? Is my paint unusually hard? I never really saw the SSR "dust" - maybe I'm using too much product or not working it long enough? I did sections 2' x 2' and worked it for 2-3 minutes each.



Thanks for any advice. :up
 
After claying



19362after_clay.jpg




After using SSR 1



19362after_ssr1.jpg




After using SSR 2.5



19362after_25.jpg




This is a shot of the middle of the hood. I was expecting to see swirls on one side, none on the other...



19362middle_of_hood.jpg




Is the SSR dusted here?



19362dusted.jpg
 
Maybe change to a orange cutting pad. I havent had a chance to try my winter purchase of SSR's yet...but I have heard nothing but good things.



MIKE
 
I'm not familiar with LC pads so I don't know where the white falls in aggreesiveness . Try working the product longer and if your trying to get rid of swirls try a light cut pad . You might have to do a second application , don't give up so easy .



What works for me as far as product on pad , about 3 dime size dots on the pad , try not to load to much on the pad . Work it till it dusts then go over it with a microfiber towel . Don't be afraid to run the PC on 6 you might like the results. Good luck and post how you make out .
 
White LC pad is a polishing pad. Yes, I guess I'll try an orange cutting pad next. I just didn't want to get too agressive on my first use of the SSRs. Plus, I have no money for one right now after spending a small forune on what I currently have...



Sounds as though I'm using the right amount of product. How long should it take to dust?
 
I had some very good results with SSR2.5 on a green Propel light-cut pad yesterday. I removed some holograms and LOTS of fine swirls from black paint. I used the PC on 5 and made two passes.
 
I've had great results with SSR2.5. I wonder if this is a process thing as I usually can get most or all of my swirls out with this product.



I do suggest you try an agressive pad and use a smaller amount of product if that is a factor. I find it breaks down easier that way.
 
Work the product till it begins to dust, then check the area that you did and see if you have to go over it again. Some times it will require more than one pass to acheive the results you want

Don't be afraid to crank your PC up to 6. (I was in the beginning) but the difference is amazing.



Good Luck

"J"
 
the SSR 2.5 and a polishing pad with a PC is NOT an agressive combo IMO. i would definately go to a cutting pad with the 2.5 then go to 1 with a polishing pad. also.. waht kind of towels are you using to remove the polish?



Vernon
 
White95Max said:
I had some very good results with SSR2.5 on a green Propel light-cut pad yesterday. I removed some holograms and LOTS of fine swirls from black paint. I used the PC on 5 and made two passes.
Click to expand...



Whitemax..I used the same combo this weekend and actually got some hazing from the SSR 2.5. Did you run into the same prob??? When you say two passes can you explain that alittle more?? I was wondering how much I should be working this product in. I know it says to use until it dusts.
 
Hazing is either from using a cutting pad, not working the product long enough, or working it too long and causing dry buffing marring.



When removing defects i like to work the product on 4 1/2 for a little while. This lets me cut it a little longer before it dries out.



Then once i "feel" it is starting to break down i lighten up alittle with my pressure-direct pressure onto the paint surface, and bump it up to about 5.5, once i see little bits of dust i stop, and wipe off.



If you use a wet pad, or over prime it, it will affect how the product breaks down, and could leave marring, makes it harder to wipe off ect.



On my first attempt at decent swirl removal i will place a good sized "X" on the pad of product.



If i have removed 80% of the problems with one pass, i will go over it again, but will only place an "/" on the pad.



If after one pass i have only removed approx. 50% of the problems i will stick with the "X" on the pad.



When using a LC orange pad and SSR 2.5- DACP you dont see any results, something is wrong, or you have hard paint.



For a very badly neglected finish, i did DACP /w LC ornage pad x3, and that got 95% of the crap.
 
I have found that SSR2.5 and LC Yellow Cut pad works wonders against those pesky swirls via PC. Left a little hazing, but easy removed the haze by following up with a finer polish such as Menz FPII. Or in your case, follow up with SSR1 with a white polishing pad.
 
vdog0531 said:
the SSR 2.5 and a polishing pad with a PC is NOT an agressive combo IMO. i would definately go to a cutting pad with the 2.5 then go to 1 with a polishing pad. also.. waht kind of towels are you using to remove the polish?



Vernon
Click to expand...



Very True. I just did an Escalade this weekend. Used Orange padn and 2.5 and worked it till I destroyed the pad, and some swirls still remained. Don't worry SSR2.5 is not gonna take your paint off or anything.



Steve
 
SHICKS said:
Very True. I just did an Escalade this weekend. Used Orange padn and 2.5 and worked it till I destroyed the pad, and some swirls still remained. Don't worry SSR2.5 is not gonna take your paint off or anything.



Steve
Click to expand...



Try the yellow pad, i find it a lot more aggresive then the orange pad.
 
Thanks for the suggestions folks. Orange or yellow pad it is.



I find that I get too much vibration if I go all the way up to 6 on the PC. By the way, a 6" counter-weight is installed. I'll try pushing it to 5 1/2 if necessary.



vdog0531 - I'm using a Poorboy's plush mf to remove the product after the PC. Doesn't take anything more than a wipe.
 
Dont be afraid to go up to 6. I was doing some polishing today with 2.5, and the difference between 5-6 is incredible. Just for fun, I did my first pass with a polishing pad on 5. Moved over a section on the hood and did the same thing but on speed 6, about the same area too and same amount of product. The one on speed 6 took out lots more swirls (this is on a black car too BTW). I ended up working the polish about 4-5 minutes a piece, and I actually think that was a bit too long. In my experience, 2.5 doesnt really "dust" in the traditional sense. Basically, when the polish starts looking almost perfectly clear, and along the edges of where the pad just was, you see little clumpy spots (basically from the pad being too dry and clumping the left over product together) thats when you stop. The polish will still be liquidy, and you probably coudl work it longer, but I dont think it would do very much. Hope this helps.
 
go on speed 6 i didnt notice any difference between the poorboys 1 & 2 but the 1 is a good final polish before something like PP or EXP and so on. Just take time and work in sections. I had been disappointed by the SSR line too until i took my time then it started coming together. Instead of getting frustrated and making things worse take a break and come back to it later. Im sure the 2.5/cutting pad will do great once you figure out how to use it. I know the ProPolish (PP) can be a pain to use too but take your time and go slowly.
 
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