Not Completely Satisfied...but close

2

2002 Maxima SE

New member
Pics to come:



Sonus DAS Kit

PC 7336



Wash - Mequiars

Clay

Green Pad -- SSR2 (speed 4 to 4.5)

Blue Pad -- AIO (speed 2 to 3)

PUPP -- apply by hand/PC with microfiber buffer (speed 4 to 5)



This is the first time I used my PC. The polishing went very well, but it did not "buff off" as I went back over the areas. I'm guessing I used a little too much on the pad, but I followed the directions on autopia.org. Same thing while applying the AIO. Even on areas where the pad had less AIO, it just left it on hazy (until I wiped it off with a micro fiber).



After wiping the car down with micro-fibers to get rid of the excess, it looked great. Less spider webs and deeper finish (will use SSR2.5 next time for better results). After applying the PUPP, I have some areas where I can't remove it all. It is slightly hazy in some areas from the PUPP, and when using a dry/clean micro fiber the haze just gets pushed around. Will add some pictures tomorrow. Overall it looks much better, just trying to hone my technique.
 
Pics to come:



Sonus DAS Kit

PC 7336



Wash - Mequiars

Clay

Green Pad -- SSR2 (speed 4 to 4.5)

Blue Pad -- AIO (speed 2 to 3)

PUPP -- apply by hand/PC with microfiber buffer (speed 4 to 5)



This is the first time I used my PC. The polishing went very well, but it did not "buff off" as I went back over the areas. I'm guessing I used a little too much on the pad, but I followed the directions on autopia.org. Same thing while applying the AIO. Even on areas where the pad had less AIO, it just left it on hazy (until I wiped it off with a micro fiber).



After wiping the car down with micro-fibers to get rid of the excess, it looked great. Less spider webs and deeper finish (will use SSR2.5 next time for better results). After applying the PUPP, I have some areas where I can't remove it all. It is slightly hazy in some areas from the PUPP, and when using a dry/clean micro fiber the haze just gets pushed around. Will add some pictures tomorrow. Overall it looks much better, just trying to hone my technique.
 
Max, take it out in the sun tomorrow for several minutes, let the sun rays thin the oils up a bit, you'll see how they resurface, then wipe away....
 
Max, take it out in the sun tomorrow for several minutes, let the sun rays thin the oils up a bit, you'll see how they resurface, then wipe away....
 
Thanks Patrick, I did the detail last night and sure enough, by noon today the heat in the garage had removed some of the haziness I was seeing. Should I used the microfiber buffer for the PC or the blue pad?



DSC00644.JPG


DSC00645.JPG


DSC00646.JPG


DSC00647.JPG
 
Thanks Patrick, I did the detail last night and sure enough, by noon today the heat in the garage had removed some of the haziness I was seeing. Should I used the microfiber buffer for the PC or the blue pad?



DSC00644.JPG


DSC00645.JPG


DSC00646.JPG


DSC00647.JPG
 
2002 Maxima SE- Yeah, that's looking good.



For the PUPP, the thinner you apply it the easier it'll come off (probably sounds familiar, huh :D ). Letting it set up for a while longer before buffing it off will help too, as will Patrick's suggestion about letting the sun work on it. The smearing will eventually go away when the excess product finally dries. In a worst-case, you can wash the vehicle, but I'd probably just wait until the next wash unless it's really noticeable.



Whenever I use a MF bonnet to buff off LSP, I also have to go over it by hand to get the little bit that the bonnet leaves behind. Sometimes I do the bonnet first, and sometimes I do the by-hand work first, but I always end up having to do them both.



If it's not too hot/humid, fogging the surface with your breath while buffing might help with smearing too, but IIRC it's not as big a help with UPP as with some other LSPs.
 
2002 Maxima SE- Yeah, that's looking good.



For the PUPP, the thinner you apply it the easier it'll come off (probably sounds familiar, huh :D ). Letting it set up for a while longer before buffing it off will help too, as will Patrick's suggestion about letting the sun work on it. The smearing will eventually go away when the excess product finally dries. In a worst-case, you can wash the vehicle, but I'd probably just wait until the next wash unless it's really noticeable.



Whenever I use a MF bonnet to buff off LSP, I also have to go over it by hand to get the little bit that the bonnet leaves behind. Sometimes I do the bonnet first, and sometimes I do the by-hand work first, but I always end up having to do them both.



If it's not too hot/humid, fogging the surface with your breath while buffing might help with smearing too, but IIRC it's not as big a help with UPP as with some other LSPs.
 
Thanks accumulator. I re-read some old posts that suggested a 45min to 1hr setup time for PUPP. I moved the car out into the sun for about 30 min and wiped away. What remains are two very small spots, most of it evaporated in the sun.



The PC is nothing short of awesome. I've tried several polishes by hand and have never had such good results. I can't wait to see how well SSR2.5 works on my 1993 Sable (before and afters to come). The most telling part of the Max is the bumpers. The plastic bumpers on the car get faded look after several washings. All my by hand applications only lasted a few weeks. Last years I hired a pro with a PC which kept the car looking good for a year. Now I can try different combos on my own to get the best effect.
 
Thanks accumulator. I re-read some old posts that suggested a 45min to 1hr setup time for PUPP. I moved the car out into the sun for about 30 min and wiped away. What remains are two very small spots, most of it evaporated in the sun.



The PC is nothing short of awesome. I've tried several polishes by hand and have never had such good results. I can't wait to see how well SSR2.5 works on my 1993 Sable (before and afters to come). The most telling part of the Max is the bumpers. The plastic bumpers on the car get faded look after several washings. All my by hand applications only lasted a few weeks. Last years I hired a pro with a PC which kept the car looking good for a year. Now I can try different combos on my own to get the best effect.
 
I got to work today and noticed some more areas on the side that didn't show up in the garage. The top, hood and trunk look perfect. How do you guys handle that? I'm assuming I can't just drive it home and start wiping it down with a MF towel...do I need to wash it again or hose it down?
 
I got to work today and noticed some more areas on the side that didn't show up in the garage. The top, hood and trunk look perfect. How do you guys handle that? I'm assuming I can't just drive it home and start wiping it down with a MF towel...do I need to wash it again or hose it down?
 
Yeah, better wash it. No point in marring it up again now that you have it so nice.



All I can recommend is to get some good lighting and to work *very* systematically. Letting the UPP set up longer will help some, as will applying it as thinly as you can. Then just work in a methodical way so you don't miss any areas. Often, when I *think* I have everything perfect, I'll go do something else for a few hours and come back to inspect it again with "fresh eyes". And I try to force myself to spend as *long* as I can inspecting, doing it one panel at a time. Your final inspection abilities will improve with experience, and you'll find a way around the natural inclination to "not see problems because you *want* it to look perfect".
 
Yeah, better wash it. No point in marring it up again now that you have it so nice.



All I can recommend is to get some good lighting and to work *very* systematically. Letting the UPP set up longer will help some, as will applying it as thinly as you can. Then just work in a methodical way so you don't miss any areas. Often, when I *think* I have everything perfect, I'll go do something else for a few hours and come back to inspect it again with "fresh eyes". And I try to force myself to spend as *long* as I can inspecting, doing it one panel at a time. Your final inspection abilities will improve with experience, and you'll find a way around the natural inclination to "not see problems because you *want* it to look perfect".
 
I would try to use a more agressive pad(yellow Propel) with SSR2 before stepping up to SSR2.5. IMO that should solve more of your swril marks better than stepping up to 2.5 with only the green pad. Anyway both are great product and there is nothing wrong with having a gret arsenal of stuff.
 
I would try to use a more agressive pad(yellow Propel) with SSR2 before stepping up to SSR2.5. IMO that should solve more of your swril marks better than stepping up to 2.5 with only the green pad. Anyway both are great product and there is nothing wrong with having a gret arsenal of stuff.
 
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