Norton products and dry sanding?

O

oakcitycustoms

New member
OK I am going to post this in the pro's forum too but...I was watching one of Speedvision's shows yesterday..it was either Dream Car Garage or Two Guys Garage and they feuterd products by Norton used in a process called dry sanding, to be used if maybe one panel was repainted or if the finish was oxidized or orange peeled. Well in my case I have both and it bothers me to no end as I am a perfectionist when it comes to my truck. Well, I have looked and found no mention of norton products and haven't been able to try my local body hsop supplier as they are closed but I am really interested in Norton's products and dry sanding as the result was phenomanal. Any one know about either norton or the dry sanding process?
 
The Norton I'm fimilar with is a manufacturer or maybe a remarketer of sandpaper. If you're serious about sanding your truck, you can get 1500/2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, such as 3M, at auto supply stores and you'll need to get a sanding block.



Did they say why you would dry sand the area instead of wet sanding?



If it was me, I'd think twice, no three times before sanding on my car. The clearcoat is pretty thin and it won't take much sanding to get through to the base color.
 
They didn't say exactly why the dry sanding was used I imagine because it is a less labor intensive process then wet sanding...basically you used 12 grit to start and then 2000 LIGHTLY over the area with a buffer. Then a 3 step proces was used..a paint cleaner.. a polish and then a sealant..the end result was spectacular which is why I was interested.
 
Norton was a successful local (to SE Massachusetts in the town of the same name) producer of abrasive products that has since been bought out by a mega-corp. In my boat building days, I used an awful lot of their open-coat aluminum oxide paper. Don't remember a wetordry from them however. These days I can't get an answer from their customer service people (if that unit really exists).



badb ... you need to know much more about this process than you do right now. I can assure you that if you start on your car with a 12 grit paper, your pant is irretrievably shot. One wouldn't use a paper this course even if the intent were to strip the finish to the bare metal.
 
Not too long ago in a mag - think it was Street Rod Builder (think????) and the article was about a guy repairing his just completed Firebird - that a neighbour backed into - he was doing it himself and as he neared the completion of the job he mentioned that he was going to use Meguiars new dry sanding system. I read this over and over to be sure - and having wet sanded many cars in the past and hating the mess but loving the results - I emailed Meg to enquire about it. Never happened before but I got no reply from them - with my time constraints I never had the time to follow up on this but I thought I would let you know what I saw. Maybe if someone had time they could follow up on this. I can tell you there are guys who have been dry sanding for some time - have seen the results on custom/street rod cars and it works too just like wet. As I see it - wet has no dust in the air but a temporary colour stain on the floor - dry has dust - take your choice. Just thought I let you know - if I get chance maybe follow it up myself since I did find the time to do this post, my first post in ages- MTS
 
sorry I meant to say 1200 grit sandpaper..cordless keyboard and if I type too fast it doesnt quite work right..I believe it went 1200 1800 and 2000 grit..lol I don't know if a 12 grit sandpaper exists but I would never want to have to use such an abrasive product
 
badblack99 said:
I don't know if a 12 grit sandpaper exists but I would never want to have to use such an abrasive product
Click to expand...



I think for 12 girt you just glue a few piece of gravel to a piece of paper :D



Wet sanding will make the paper last longer. I've done dry sanding on powdercoating and wood before and the paper clogs up with crap and will sand unevenly.



Wet sanding also helps flush away the paint you are removing. I like wetsanding. Get yourself a california waterblade if you wetsand. You'll wetsand an area with a sanding block and then use the waterblade to clear away to water to check your progress.
 
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