Nick’s unsolicited Zaino Tips & Tricks - Part 1

Nick T.

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<CENTER><FONT size=4>Nick’s unsolicited Zaino Tips & Tricks</FONT></CENTER>

<CENTER><FONT size=3>Part One</FONT></CENTER>



Disclaimer: I am not a professional detailer nor an expert on paint care. I’m just a charter member of the ARZOA who has a little experience with Zaino, and one of my cars is Jet Black and shows all of my mistakes!



Intro to Zaino:

The Zaino system is made up of a group of synthetic sealant products which replace carnauba as a protectant for your paint. As a general rule the synthetic sealants have longer durability, higher reflectivity, and less depth than carnauba. The Zaino polymers form a cross-linked bond with the underlying surface and this provides excellent durability.



Zaino is more reflective, has more clarity, and gives a harder surface than the other synthetics, but it also does very little to hide underlying paint defects and is very susceptible to marring.



Many detailers seem to be afraid of using Zaino … it’s too complicated, it’s too expensive, it’s too difficult to apply/buff, it’s prone to smearing, it can’t be topped with carnauba, etc. After you have read this and applied a coat or two of Zaino you’ll find that none of these worries are justified!



Paint preparation:

Due to Zaino’s outstanding clarity and it’s lack of oils, fillers, or waxes it will not hide any underlying paint defect. In fact, Zaino will in many cases make them more noticeable! First, and most importantly, properly and thoroughly prepare your paint. Do a dish detergent wash, then a claying, and follow with whatever polishing is needed to remove (not fill) any micro-marring. Finish with a very mild cleaner/polish to obtain the most reflective surface possible. It is desirable, but not necessary, to use a random orbital buffer for the polishing phase. I recommend P21S GEPC, S100 SEC, or Platinum UPP-C. All of these products leave oils on the paint, and the polymers in Zaino will not bond to the paint properly if you do not remove the oils. Do a very careful wash (you don’t want to add any micro-marring to your carefully prepared paint) with Z-7 and carefully dry. Now you’re ready for the Zaino treatment!



A few facts that you should know before starting with Zaino:

Unlike carnauba, Zaino can be applied in direct sunlight. The only problem that I’ve encountered doing it in the sun is that the Z-6 Gloss Enhancer (Zaino’s quick detailer) dries very quickly, so you need to work on smaller areas. If it does dry just apply a little more Z-6 and the stains will come right off with little effort.



Z-1 Polish Lok and ZFX Accelerator perform similar tasks, and one or the other must be used when applying Zaino the first time. They prepare the underlying surface for molecular cross-linking (bonding) with Zaino’s polymers. Since Z-1 is applied first and then topped by Z-2 or Z-5 it takes a little longer to dry than when using ZFX which is mixed with the Z-2 or Z-5. ZFX has the added benefit of greatly reducing the curing (hardening) time, and it also allows you to apply up to three back-to-back layers of Zaino instead of waiting 24 hours before adding another layer.



It is not necessary to use Z-1 or ZFX every time that you apply Zaino. Mr. Z says to use it the first time and every tenth coat thereafter. I use it for the first 3-4 coats and then every fourth or fifth coat. Although I recommend using ZFX primarily, Z-1 is very handy to have when you are doing a spot repair since it’s very difficult to mix a tiny amount of Z-2 or Z-5 and ZFX.



Drying time (bonding) depends on temperature, humidity, and the thickness of your application. On a hot and dry day Zaino can be ready in under ten minutes. On a cold and humid day, or if you didn’t do a thin enough application, it may take as long as an hour or more. In very cold weather you can wait overnight between product application and buffing. I’ve waited as long as 36 hours and had no problems.



Do not wipe of the residue until it can pass the “finger test� or you will be wiping off product that has not yet bonded to the paint. The finger test: make sure that your finger is clean, dry, and oil free. Wipe a one inch long area with your finger. If the product has properly bonded your finger will leave a clean and shiny line. If there is any smudging or smearing, then it’s not ready and you’ll have to wait longer. The cause of an excessively long wait time is most likely a too thick application of the product.



Micro-marring is a problem with polymer sealants; use only a light pressure when applying and buffing! Preferably use microfiber applicators and buffing cloths. Check them frequently for debris pickup! If you didn’t apply an even and thin layer, then you may have trouble wiping it off in some spots. Don’t rub harder! Spritz the problem area with distilled water, not Z-6, and continue wiping gently. It’s not necessary to buff off each and every slightly hazy spot, the finish coat of Z-6 will take care of that.



Zaino is so clear that you can add many layers without any yellowing or other color distortion. I know one person that had 70+ layers before deciding to experiment with other systems. I have had as many as 30+ on my roadster. Each coat added even more reflectivity and a very little depth, but with diminishing reflectivity returns after 6-8 layers. Be cautious; Zaino is addictive!



Contrary to their names, Z-1, Z-2, Z-3, and Z-5 contain no abrasives. They do not polish!



Many people think that Z-2 works best on light colored cars and Z-5 on dark colors. Others think that alternating layers of each product is better. On my black paint I think that a couple of layers of Z-5 topped with a layer of Z-2 gives the best results.



Z-5 takes many layers (maybe 6-8 or more) to hide even the smallest micro-marring.



Zaino can successfully be topped with a good quality carnauba paste to add depth without losing reflectivity. Use very thin layers of the carnauba to preserve the reflectivity. More layers, more depth! You cannot successfully top the carnauba with Zaino as it will not bond! If you want to add more Zaino, then all that needs to me done is to do a dish detergent wash to remove the wax. This will not remove the Zaino. Even a mild polish/cleaner or a QD with alcohol will damage and maybe remove the Zaino. Use Z-6 only.



There seems to be a synergistic effect between the Zaino paint care products. I strongly suggest that you wash with Z-7 Car Wash and use Z-6 as your quick detailer.



Sal Zaino is very friendly and helpful, and he prefers to talk on the phone instead of via email. His number is 732-883-8800.



In part two of Nick’s unsolicited Zaino Tips & Tricks we’ll take a look at the step-by-step procedure.
 
<CENTER><FONT size=4>Nick’s unsolicited Zaino Tips & Tricks</FONT></CENTER>

<CENTER><FONT size=3>Part Two</FONT></CENTER>



Before applying your first layer of Zaino it is very important that you properly and thoroughly prepare your paint. Do a dish detergent wash, then a claying, and follow with whatever polishing is needed to remove, not fill, any micro-marring. Finish with a very mild cleaner/polish to obtain the most reflective surface possible. It is desirable, but not necessary, to use a random orbital buffer for the polishing phase. I recommend P21S GEPC, S100 SEC, or Platinum UPP-C. All of these products leave oils on the paint, and the polymers in Zaino will not bond to the paint properly if you do not remove the oils. Do a very careful wash with Z-7 and carefully dry. If you are applying Zaino on top of previous coats of Zaino, then only the Z-7 wash and dry are needed. Now you’re ready for the Zaino treatment!



Step by Step:

Put one ounce of Z-5 (or Z-2) in a two ounce mixing bottle (several come with your ZFX) and add 4 drops of ZFX. This is enough Z-5/ZFX for two coats on a standard size car. Shake vigorously for 90 seconds. Wait for five minutes and shake the Z-5/ZFX again for 30 seconds.



Lightly spray your applicator with Z-6 before applying the sealant. It lets you get a thinner and more even coat, which in turn makes buffing require less pressure. Remoisten the applicator after each two or three areas as needed.



Especially important: Don’t put the Zaino on the applicator in a small circle as Mr. Z recommends on the Zaino web site, draw a “Z� on the applicator with the Zaino. This is even more important if you’re doing a Z3, Z4, Z8, Z28, or a Nissan Z-car (or if you’re related to Zorro)!



Instead of wiping the entire care with Z-6 before applying Zaino, wipe down each area (1/2 of the hood, a door, etc.) with Z-6 immediately before applying the sealant. It seems to give a slightly higher shine. Speculation: maybe the Z-6 loosens the cross-linking for a short while and aids in bonding.



Lightly spread the Zaino onto your paint very sparingly. Best results are obtained from a very thin and even coat! An excessively thick application wastes product and is difficult to remove. I first apply using a circular movement to ensure complete coverage, then follow with straight line wipes to achieve a thin and even application.



On light colored paint it should be so thin that it is hard to see in bright sunlight so you may want to work in the shade.



Check the applicator frequently for any debris that it may have picked up. You may find that there are some areas on your car that are hard to do using an applicator pad. I use a lightly dampened cotton ball and a small amount of Z-5/ZFX on these areas. After this do the “cotton ball� areas first since the product will likely be a little thicker and doing it first gives it more time to dry. If your application has been thin enough you will have used a little less than half of the product to apply one coat to the entire car. Do the entire car before wiping off the Zaino since it must be allowed to dry thoroughly to permit proper bonding.



Do not wipe of the residue until it can pass the finger test or you will be wiping off product that has not yet bonded. If you need to wait, then this is a good time to work on the interior, or the trunk, or the engine compartment. Do not wipe off the residue until the Zaino has bonded!



When it passes the finger test, wipe off the Z-5/ZFX using only light pressure. Shake out the buffing cloth very frequently and also visually check for debris pickup. I usually use two or three 16�x16� towels wiping off each coat of Z-5/ZFX. If you drop the towel, then stop using it. I prefer white microfiber towels since they make it easier to spot any debris.



If there is an area where you put on too much product, and it doesn’t wipe off easily, don’t start rubbing! Wipe lightly a little more and use a light spritz of distilled water if needed. It’s not necessary to buff off each and every hazy spot, the next coat of Zaino or the finish coat of Z-6 will take care of that.



When you are finished wiping of the residual carries do another application of Z-5/ZFX, again pre-wiping each area with Z-6. This time doing the “cotton ball� areas first. Remember to wait for full bonding before wiping off the residue.



Use the remaining small amount of Zaino to do the bug prone areas including the front lamp covers.



After removing the residue wipe down the entire care with Z-6 and a clean microfiber towel to further enhance the shine!



Now stand back and admire your work! The next time will be easier because you will have learned how to apply thinner layers.



Additional info:

I recommend that in addition to Z-2, Z-5, Z-6, and Z-7 you get a bottle of Z-1. You may want to get two bottles of Z-6 since you will be using it frequently.



Here’s how I deal with the inevitable marring that sooner or later happen:

For scratches that go through the Zaino and into the clear-coat use your usual mar removal methods on that spot. It will remove the Zaino so it’s necessary to redo that area. This where it’s very handy to have a bottle of Z-1 since it’s really hard to mix a tiny amount of Z-5 and ZFX. To use Z-1 just wipe it on the area where you’ve been working and a little beyond and immediately wipe on the Z-2 or Z-5. Do not wait for the Z-1 to dry! The next day repeat the Z-1 and Z-2 or Z-5 application.

For very light scratches that are only in the Zaino I apply 3M Imperial Hand Glaze, which contains no abrasives, to the offending area. Add layers as needed. When you are satisfied with the appearance, then wipe very lightly with a mild Z-6 solution and again very lightly with Z-6. Top with a double layer of Z-1 and Z-2 or Z-5.



If you do top your Zaino with carnauba to gain added depth, remember to use very thin layers and that the wax must be removed before adding more Zaino. As well as adding depth, a topping of carnauba will protect the Zaino from micro-marring and will extend its life.



Some of my methods differ from what you will find on the Zaino web site,for example using microfiber instead of 100% cotton. I’ve done a lot of experimenting with Zaino and tried many methods and techniques, starting with Mr. Z’s recommendations. My hints and tips are the methods and techniques that have worked best for me on my black paint. YMMV!



Good luck and have fun!



I will welcome any corrections, suggestions, improvements, ideas, or differing experiences. If you are a spelling and/or a grammar nazi, then I would also like to hear from you, but please do it via PM or email so as to not clutter this thread. The same goes for flames, by PM or email please.
 
As some of you may know I’m no longer using Zaino. My change to a different system was not because of any failings with or by Zaino. I changed because I have a compulsion for experimentation. I still highly recommend Zaino as the product of choice for many users!



I have tried several of the available synthetic sealants; Klasse, Blackfire, Platinum, Poorboy’s EX, and Zaino. They are all different in some way, and one or the other may be more suitable for any given application. For example I still use Zaino on my wheels because it gives the hardest surface, and I use Klasse on my door jambs because it is very scratch resistant.



Currently I’m comparing using 3-4 layers of Platinum, or Zaino, or EX as a base for added layers of carnauba. I’m also trying to learn how to be consistently successful with using 3M IHG between layers of carnauba.
 
Another nice write-up Nick:up Hve you ever considered teaching a course on writing instructions? Compared to you the people who write them are speaking another language.
 
MSOsr and 2500Hemi - - Thanks for the compliments guys!



Please no more compliments on any of my Tip & Tricks threads. I’d like to see them maintained as easy reading by limiting the add-on posts to corrections, suggestions, improvements, ideas, or differing experiences.



-Nick
 
Well done, Nick. Regarding additions or comments, I have found that Z 5 or Z2 with ZFX can require elbow grease to remove if left on over night, at least here in LA, in a dry, hot climate. I have done this on purpose a couple time, to get a really hard coat, but it was definitely more work to remove, particularly if applied too thickly. This is, of course, not usually the case with Z.
 
OK!



I bought my DACP and #9 today, all I need is the PC and the pads! Here is what I'm planning to do:



Dawn

Clay

DACP

#9

SEC

Wash

Z5/Z2

S100



Too much?
 
Hi Intermezzo

Such a warm welcome! Thanks. Yes, I am still alive. I never lost good feelings towards the members here . . . just got busy. I will probably just check in once a week or so.

Thanks again.
 
darbh - - I did a little testing since your post on the 27th. Put Z-5/ZFX on half of my rear deck on Saturday afternoon and let it sit until Tuesday morning. Daytime temps in the high 90s, very low humidity. The Zaino wiped off very easily. My guess is that you’re not applying the Zaino thinly enough. When I was doing the entire car with Zaino half of the mixing bottle would give me two full coats with enough left over to do the windshield forward.



If you do get an area that’s hard to remove it’s better to use a spritzing of distilled water or Z-6 to remove the dried residue than to just rub harder.
 
Nick,



I just used z2 with zfx on my car and has three coats. Problem was that after reading ure tips, i completely did the job the wrong way.



It was the finger test, since i used ZFX i thought i dont need to wait until it`s totally dry. So what i did was remove Z2 after an hour didnt care about the finger test, and used Z6, and then Z2 after that.



After three coats of Z2, i got great results, wat should i do? wait for a few days and redo doing Z2 or wat?.



Another thing is after using ZFX on my car, is it ok to use Z2 without ZFX the next time i want to do my car again?



Thanks!! :)
 
xenangel said:
Nick,



I just used z2 with zfx on my car and has three coats. Problem was that after reading ure tips, i completely did the job the wrong way.



It was the finger test, since i used ZFX i thought i dont need to wait until it`s totally dry. So what i did was remove Z2 after an hour didnt care about the finger test, and used Z6, and then Z2 after that.



After three coats of Z2, i got great results, wat should i do? wait for a few days and redo doing Z2 or wat?.



Another thing is after using ZFX on my car, is it ok to use Z2 without ZFX the next time i want to do my car again?



Thanks!! :)
An hour of drying time is normally enough except in cold/damp weather. If I were you I’d apply another three layers of Z2/ZFX after the next wash. After that there’s no need for using ZFX until you have added 6-8 layers of Z-2 or after 6-8 months - whichever comes first.
 
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