Newb needs polishing help (with pics!)

S

syko

New member
Hey all, first time posting here. I'm a newb at detailing, just recently bought some supplies and finally had a free weekend to try it all out! It took me /forever/ to clay my car yesterday, and now today I wanted to polish and wax.



I'm using Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a PX 7424XP and Lake Country Orange pad, and I'm having trouble with my test spot. I'm getting buffer trail lines. I took some pics:



trail1.jpg




trail2.jpg




And there are no clouds out today :P



I've tried 2 test spots, both with the same result. It's about 65 outside. Working in the shade. Tried one spot at PC speed 6, the other at 5. Put 5 pea-sized drops of Ultimate Compound on the pad, put the buffer on the car, turned it on, spread out the product, then did 2 passes. Noticed this trails problem, then tried again with 6 passes. Tried a second test spot at speed 5 with 6 passes. Both spots have the problem.



I've been trying to keep an even amount of pressure on the PC, but sometimes the pad stops spinning and sometimes it spins quickly. Not sure if that's my fault or part of the "random" orbital buffer.



What do you think the problem is? Should I try another polish? Another pad? Maybe I'm doing something else wrong? I don't really want to go any further til I fix this...



Thanks for any help!
 
syko- Welcome to Autopia! Sorry to hear you're having problems.



I'm not sure just what the problem really is, but a few things do come to mind:



-Don't spread the product before doing the "real polishing", at least not with that product. I'm no authority on UC, but when I use the similar M105 I prime the pad thoroughly/properly, set it on the paint, and immediately start buffing. The only "spreading" that happens is what occurs in the normal course of the process, not something separate that's done first. See if that makes any difference.



-Maybe you're working too large an area. Maybe you're working it too long or not long enough. Twice across the area usually isn't enough, six times is often about right, more is OK as long as you don't overwork the product to the point that it dries out.



-What does it look like if you clean the area with IPA (rubbing alcohol)? What if you go over it with a milder product?



-The pad stops spinning due to excessive friction; I bet you're using ~6" pads. If that guess is correct, that's part of the problem; the PC, even the XP version, is pretty hard-pressed to work properly with that size of pad and any applied pressure is often enough to stop the spinning part of the machines action. Solution is to use smaller pads (yeah, I know...bummer).
 
Welcome! I'm no help on the polishing since I've never used that type of machine or polish. I will say that claying shouldn't take you too long. Claying a "normal" car should be about an hour, tops, and a car in bad shape maybe 1.5. I normally clay my cars in 30 minutes or so now that they stay in pretty good shape. When I first started claying I was not using nearly enough lube and was trying to get friction on the surface to help the clay rub stuff off the paint. Bad technique! I read through some posts and find that most people recommend using a LOT of clay lube, and the basic goal is to let the clay glide over the paint and lubrication. You won't feel friction with the paint and you might even think, I'm not doing anything. But you are. I confirmed this using the baggie test myself. So grab some ONR or other detail spray, soak the panel wet, and then clay quickly - it will work and save you a lot of time. You can check yourself with a baggie over your fingers to confirm the decontamination. I'm not saying you should be pressure free with the clay (although some will say that), but you shouldn't be dragging the clay across the surface - more gliding.
 
To buff a car requires knowledge of paint finishes; ability to identify paint finish problems and know what tool, pad and compound to use to correct the problem.



There are white wool cutting pads, poly/wool blend cutting pads and heavy, medium and light foam cutting pads.



There are heavy, medium, light and microfine compounds.



The secret after diagnosing the paint finish problem is to choose the right tool, rotary buffer, dual action buffer or the new BUUPRO drum

style buffer, the right cutting pad and the right compound.



Make a wrong choice and you either will not correct the pro lem or you will cause more damage by using too aggressive a tool, pad or compound or all three.



From what I see it appears you used something too aggressive. Tool, pad, compound.



What do you think you did wrong based on what I have said?



Regards

Bud Abraham

DETAIL PLUS SYSTEMS
 
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