Newb, just about to wetsand and buff my newly custom painted mustang with questions!

bad306lx

New member
My dad recently painted my car, and we are now looking wetsand and buff the whole car. He has been in the body shop business for over 20 years, but is open to new ideas and materials to do this job. Now that I am ready to wetsand and buff my car, I'm looking for tips on how to get the best finish I can out of my fresh paint job. This is what I'm starting with:



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I'd like to start off by giving details of the actual paint job itself.



1) The front and rear bumper covers were painted with Sikkens Cryl single stage, to give it the extra durability for rock chips, nicks whatever. That is why the silver is hung down behind the headlights. The bumpers were installed on the car already painted solid black, while the rest of the body was unpainted.



2) Next, my dad laid a couple coats of Sikkens silver base down the center of the entire car.



3) Then we untaped it, and did the black, and then the green.



4) For clear, he used Glazurit and did 4 coats, and this was all done in a devilbiss booth, and Sata spray guns.



The car turned out very nice, and is a bit orange peely, but has very few dirt, as I cleaned and scrubbed that booth out for 2 days.



Soooo, what is the best way to go about wetsanding and buffing this car?



What grit sandpaper should I start with? I will be wetsanding the flat spots, and my dad will be doing all of the edges, because this is my first time.



As for buffing, is there a big kit you can buy that has all the pads and compounds in one? Or is there a combination of products that you guys like to use to get the best look? He currently uses 3m pads and compounds, but I couldn't tell you exactly which ones.



Thanks for your input!
 
Start w/1200 and then go over it w/2000. Wait for the paint to be fully cured and use proper technique. You'll be fine. The 3M system is very nice and easy to work with and is specifically designed to do this repair. Nice looking Mustang.
 
Just go slow and take your time. The 3M will cut, so let the polish do its job. Be careful on your edges and pay attention to what you're doing. I've burned though fresh paint a couple times, its pretty easy to do if you are either rushing or just not careful in general. Sounds like you used some good products... never been around glazurit, but from what I've heard its second to none. All my stuff is painted with spies hecker, which is also pretty good stuff IMO. Very nice mustang, really like the look you've got going. I would have gone with the 10" wheels in the rear though. My buddy just finished building his 92 coupe with a 306 tfs heads/intake, b cam, T40E turbo running 12 psi... put down 495 to the wheels
 
I recommend you also use Four Star Abrasive Enhancing Gel instead of water. If you ever wet sanded before you will love the difference using this over water.
 
David Fermani said:
Start w/1200 and then go over it w/2000. Wait for the paint to be fully cured and use proper technique. You'll be fine. The 3M system is very nice and easy to work with and is specifically designed to do this repair. Nice looking Mustang.



Is a couple months long enough for the paint to fully cure? lol. I think we painted it back in October. I think that could be more of a problem than anything, but I started to wetsand a small spot on the hood, and so far, the glazurit is sanding pretty easily.
 
jbraswell said:
Just go slow and take your time. The 3M will cut, so let the polish do its job. Be careful on your edges and pay attention to what you're doing. I've burned though fresh paint a couple times, its pretty easy to do if you are either rushing or just not careful in general. Sounds like you used some good products... never been around glazurit, but from what I've heard its second to none. All my stuff is painted with spies hecker, which is also pretty good stuff IMO. Very nice mustang, really like the look you've got going. I would have gone with the 10" wheels in the rear though. My buddy just finished building his 92 coupe with a 306 tfs heads/intake, b cam, T40E turbo running 12 psi... put down 495 to the wheels



I'm not going to be wetsanding any of the edges or curves. I'm just doing all of the flat spots. My dad is going to be doing the edges and curves as he has the experience.



Also, my dad will be doing all of the buffing. I have never buffed before, and I don't want to learn on this paint job, lol.



I would have liked to have gone with the 10" wheel, but they are only available in 18"s in that size. The 17"s are 10.5"s and will cause too many rubbing issues, that I don't want to have to deal with, with how much I will be driving this car.
 
Danase said:
I recommend you also use Four Star Abrasive Enhancing Gel instead of water. If you ever wet sanded before you will love the difference using this over water.



Where can I find more information on this, like where to buy it?
 
Since you have a shop (read that, big-@$$ compressor) and your dad is up for trying new things I’d highly recommend the Mirka system. Their system is tailored for using an air powered DA sander for the bulk of the work. It’s fast and effective in a shop environment and gives great results.



With the Mirka system you’d typically flatten the orange peel with either #1200 or #1500, pull out the scratch with #2000 and then do final sanding with #4000. It makes buffing out the sanding scratch really easy.



Mirka’s US operation is in Ohio too. If you’re near by I’d bet they’d be willing to send a rep out to teach your dad and his shop personnel how to use the system.





PC.
 
the other pc said:
Since you have a shop (read that, big-@$$ compressor) and your dad is up for trying new things I’d highly recommend the Mirka system. Their system is tailored for using an air powered DA sander for the bulk of the work. It’s fast and effective in a shop environment and gives great results.



With the Mirka system you’d typically flatten the orange peel with either #1200 or #1500, pull out the scratch with #2000 and then do final sanding with #4000. It makes buffing out the sanding scratch really easy.



Mirka’s US operation is in Ohio too. If you’re near by I’d bet they’d be willing to send a rep out to teach your dad and his shop personnel how to use the system.





PC.



He actually uses an electric buffer though. I'm not sure on the brand or model, but I do know that it is green, haha! I'll check saturday to find out exactly what it is. And hopefully the car will be wetsanded and buffed then!
 
ZoranC said:
Have you tried Meguiar's Hi-Tech Car Wash when wet sanding? If yes it would be interesting to see how Four Star stacks up against it.



Yeah, the first wet-sanding project i did was using hi-tech wash. I might do a comparison for fun if no one does it before me.
 
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