New vehicle, new leather - Advice

J

jabber

New member
I recently purchased a new Mitsubishi Outlander and want to preserve its condition as best I can. I am new to detailing and have been reading a lot on here about what to do. The one thing I am still confused about is the leather.



From what I understand, I don't really need to condition my leather seats, I just need to keep them clean and maybe protect them. Can anyone offer advice on this. I understand water-based protectors are best. I have seen a lot of mention of Lexol and Leatherique, but these seem to be conditioners and not protectors.



I have added a picture of the seats, in case that helps. I like the matte look of the seats and don't really want them greasy or shiny. There is also some perforated leather on the seats, does this need special treatment? Also, parts of the dash and door trim is "leather" as well, though I assume this is actually vinyl. Any recommendations on protecting this?



Thanks for any help you can offer!!



IMG_2116.jpg
 
Leather does not require 'conditioning' with anything other than water.



Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.

Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.



Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.



Your type of leather is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.



Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after. Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty. Dirt on the surface will aslo become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.



'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain.



A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc on pale coloured leathers.



Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in good condition.



The routine for correct care should be

Protect from new (Auto Ultra Protect)

Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product (Auto Ultra Maintain)

Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year (Auto Ultra Foam)



These simple steps will prolong the life of the finish on the leather.

Perforated leather does not need treating any differently if the products are light ones and not creams etc. It is only ones that contain waxes and/or oils that tend to clog up the holes.



You can download a free care leaflet here

Leather Cleaning, Leather Care Products, Furniture Repair Restoration, provided by Leather Training & Technical



Hope this helps
 
You are on the right track, sounds like you've read a few of the leather threads. There is no gospel, however find a protectant you like and keep the leather clean and you'll do fine. I really like 1Z Leather Care, but others seem to really like Leather Masters.
 
jabber said:
Thanks for the help!



Does the 1Z Leather Care leave a matte finish on the leather?
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Yep, its very matte. One of the main reasons I like it. The other two are its carnauba based and actually leaves something on the surface, and it smells nice, not like fake leather.
 
Does the 1Z Leather Care leave a matte finish on the leather?
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Remember you have coated leather which the oils and waxes cannot penetrate. This contains oils and waxes which will help to attract more dirt to the surface of the leather rather than offer any protection.
 
judyb said:
Remember you have coated leather which the oils and waxes cannot penetrate. This contains oils and waxes which will help to attract more dirt to the surface of the leather rather than offer any protection.
Click to expand...



You have a PM from me
 
judyb is 100% correct.



The topic of automotive leather care has been discussed and debated ad nauseum and there is a lot of misinformation on the internet as to the best way to care for automotive leather. Most automotive leathers used for upholstery (~90%) are finished with some type of polymer component (polyacrylates, polybutadienes, polyurethanes) - the natural look of finished leather seats is a matte finish. The polymer finish is breathable to water vapor only...not water, not oil, not conditioners...but water vapor. For this reason judyb recommends a water-based cleaner followed by a water-based protectant. That's is, it is that simple.



Can you use conditioners, oils, waxes, etc.? Sure you can...but why? First, it is a waste of money/product and second, the product will simply attract dirt.



Clean them and protect them and they will last longer than your car.
 
yakky...1Z makes good products - no one said they didn't. But, in the end, it's about marketing.



If you want to use 1Z Leather care - then go ahead and use it - no one is stopping you.



The thread was started by a person new to detailing who was trying to understand a very confusing topic. It is not chemically and physically possible for oils and conditioners to penetrate the polyurethane coating.
 
There's so much misinformation out there regarding leather. I've always used leather conditioners - Zaino, Surf City, whatever. After the initial application, it seems like the upkeep on my seats always kicks up a notch. That is, they get dirty faster, don't seem to clean as easy, and never look the same as they did new.



With my curent car, I've been wiping down the seats with a damp cloth when I wash, and the leather looks perfect. I'm skipping all conditioners, and only using cleaners (without conditioners) as necessary. That seems to do the trick nicely.



The same is true of the vinyl surfaces in my vehicles. I started using Meg's Quick Interior Detailer, which is a light cleaner with very little protectant (if any at all). I used that method for four years on a Lexus that lives in South Florida, and it looked showroom-new the day I got rid of it. Manufacturers would like us to believe that our dashboards will fade and crack in half the day we stop applying protectants, but that hasn't been my experience at all. To be honest, I can't remember the last time I saw a vehicle with interior sun damage, and that's saying a lot in Ft. Lauderdale.



In my experience, "protectants" seem to be designed to amp up the gloss, and do very little else. I'll pass and just get a good window tint.
 
Flawbolt said:
yakky...1Z makes good products - no one said they didn't. But, in the end, it's about marketing.



If you want to use 1Z Leather care - then go ahead and use it - no one is stopping you.



The thread was started by a person new to detailing who was trying to understand a very confusing topic. It is not chemically and physically possible for oils and conditioners to penetrate the polyurethane coating.
Click to expand...



And I'll admit, I'm not sure if I'm anymore clear :confused:



I think I'm back to where I was at the beginning. Nothing is really needed other than keeping the seats clean. Thanks for everyone's input! If I were to go with a protectant, what are some water-based products that are available?
 
JudyB is not 100% correct. 1Z leather car is designed for finished leather by a pretty well known company. Secondly, if anyone thinks 1Z is oily, then plain and simple, they have not used it. It is by far the driest and mattest product I have used for leather, and yes, I have Leather Masters.
 
yakky said:
Because she says it attracts dirt, it does not, and implies that it is not for treated leather, which it is specifically designed for. Now if you want to use some stuff made in someone's basement vs something a reputable company makes, knock yourself out.



http://www.1z-usa.com/Proper-Leather-Care_ep_62.html



"einszett Leather Care is specifically formulated for treating both semi-aniline and pigmented leather. einszett worked with local European leather suppliers to produce a product that effectively cleans the surface, removes oxidation, and maintains the suppleness of the finish without it looking unnaturally glossy or greasy. In addition, einszett Leather Care does not leave a powdery residue around the stitching, does not clog the pores of perforated leather, does not contain harsh chemicals that can strip the pigmented dye, and has a pleasant fragrance. The overall objective is to maintain the appearance of the leather as it was the day it came out of the factory."
Click to expand...



I get that you're a fan, but what would you expect their marketing team to say? They're not going to sell product by telling you that their product adds a coating to already-coated leather that attracts dirt.
 
judyb is 100% correct. If you go to 1Z's site it states:



"A gentle formula of cleaners, natural oils and waxes that clean and condition to maintain the natural look and feel of leather surfaces. Leaves a clean, non-greasy finish with a light scent. Does not leave residue around stitching or perforations. Use on interior car fittings, motorcycle cladding, handbags, and boots. Not for use on suede or nude leathers."



In the first sentence it states that it contains oils and waxes...so how is she wrong? What she states is that the oils and waxes are not necessary...matte finish or not, they are not necessary...and she is correct.
 
jabber said:
There is also some perforated leather on the seats, does this need special treatment?
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These perforated panels are where your attention should be!



The perforations holes are where “transpiration� takes place from the lower leather “structure� (averaging 1mm thickness) strata.



Thus original fatliquor (fat, oil and water) hydrogen-bonded with the protein fibers evaporate through heat as VOC (volatile organic compound) through these holes.



Cleaning solution that’s alkaline will shift the protein fibers anionic (-); thus repels the anionic leather constituents that include the fatliquor and leach out during cleaning.



Is water good to use as a conditioner?



Is depends if the water is leather-safe (pH 3-5); these leather pH neutral water (not to be confused with the neutral 7 of the pH scale) will strengthen the pH chemistry integrity of the leather structure besides the “finish�.



Alkaline water damages the leather as explain above that breaks the hydrogen between the protein fibers and the other leather constituents.



Whether the water is leather-safe or not; one thing for sure when the water evaporates in-between the fiber structure; the leather fibrils will become stick together; due to the effect of “Van der Waal Forces� also known as “London Forces� in the wicking process.



Well it is true that the stiffness can be work out by stretching and flexing; by doing so it breaks all these stiff fibers; thus making the leather structure softer but “weaker�.





The special treatment to these perforated panels is recommended as follows:



1] Use leather-safe (pH 3-5) leather care system; when maintenance cleaning use a pH 3.8 Cleaner and a pH 3.0 Rinse.



2] Optional condition with water; using a pH 3.3 Hydrator into the leather structure.



3] Mandatory replenishing original fatliquor; using a pH 5.0 Fatliquor into the leather structure.



4] Recommended to use a Non-Stick, Rub-Resistance protector with a buttery-feel to reduce friction wear of the leather “Finish� (UV protection is overkill for your leather; it’s the manufacturer responsibility to use build-in UV strength pigments for outdoor leathers especially auto).



5] Steering wheels besides the matte look you want; a draggy-feel protector gives better grip for safe driving and is available in the auto kit too!



Leather should be enjoyed with confidence; knowing that there's a foolproof system to help realized its ultimate potential sensuality more than any upholstery material.



The Aesthetic!

The Suppleness of Hand!

The Tactile Feel!

The Cheeky Squeak!

The Unforgettable Classic Leather Scent that Charms - the scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself is true!





Roger Koh

Leather Doctor®
 
Flawbolt said:
judyb is 100% correct. If you go to 1Z's site it states:



"A gentle formula of cleaners, natural oils and waxes that clean and condition to maintain the natural look and feel of leather surfaces. Leaves a clean, non-greasy finish with a light scent. Does not leave residue around stitching or perforations. Use on interior car fittings, motorcycle cladding, handbags, and boots. Not for use on suede or nude leathers."



In the first sentence it states that it contains oils and waxes...so how is she wrong? What she states is that the oils and waxes are not necessary...matte finish or not, they are not necessary...and she is correct.
Click to expand...





Because she says it attracts dirt, it does not, and implies that it is not for treated leather, which it is specifically designed for. Now if you want to use some stuff made in someone's basement vs something a reputable company makes, knock yourself out.



http://www.1z-usa.com/Proper-Leather-Care_ep_62.html



"einszett Leather Care is specifically formulated for treating both semi-aniline and pigmented leather. einszett worked with local European leather suppliers to produce a product that effectively cleans the surface, removes oxidation, and maintains the suppleness of the finish without it looking unnaturally glossy or greasy. In addition, einszett Leather Care does not leave a powdery residue around the stitching, does not clog the pores of perforated leather, does not contain harsh chemicals that can strip the pigmented dye, and has a pleasant fragrance. The overall objective is to maintain the appearance of the leather as it was the day it came out of the factory."
 
Roger Koh said:
Leather should be enjoyed with confidence; knowing that there's a foolproof system to help realized its ultimate potential sensuality more than any upholstery material.



The Aesthetic!

The Suppleness of Hand!

The Tactile Feel!

The Cheeky Squeak!

The Unforgettable Classic Leather Scent that Charms - the scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself is true!





Roger Koh

Leather Doctor®
Click to expand...



Roger, you give great advice, but were you drinking when you wrote this? :chuckle:



You had me at "ultimate potential sensuality"...
 
The perforations holes are where “transpiration” takes place from the lower leather “structure” (averaging 1mm thickness) strata.



Thus original fatliquor (fat, oil and water) hydrogen-bonded with the protein fibers evaporate through heat as VOC (volatile organic compound) through these holes.
Click to expand...



Transpiration does take place through these holes but only of moisture - transpiration is the movement of moisture back and forth through leather which gives it its 'breathability' Fat liquors are bonded to the fibres during the tanning process and go nowhere so do not 'transpire' and do not need replacing.



Perforated leather is only a problem when using creams or products that contain oils and waxes as they tend to be thicker and therefore clog up the holes. There should be no problem with cleaning these with true water based products that have not been 'thickened' into a cream.



Use foam cleaner with a stiff bristled brush or a maintenance product that will clean and protect.
 
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