new to orbitals/rotary polishers

L

lexusgs

New member
I know this question probrably gets asked alot but I want to get a polisher for my black Lexus GS430. It has alot of swirl marks, blemishes, water spots, light scratches especially on the hood and roof that I would like to correct or at least make much less noticeable. I have seen a deal where you can get a Porter Cable 7424 for $99 with a counterweight and think I might go with that deal but I have been reading a few things where some people say a PC will not be able to really correct anything because it does not have the power to and is more for just applying and taking off polish and wax and is just a little better then any old cheap sears $30 or $40 buffer. Many seem to be saying I will need either a Makita B06040 2 mode or a Flex XC3401VRG dual action polisher to be able to correct swirl marks, light scratches, water spots, oxidation, etc if I don't want to go with a rotary. But then others say a PC will get rid of swirl marks, water spots, etc with the right pads and polishes and they have had great results.



I would just like to ask what are your opinions and whether Porter Cable 7424 users are able to get rid of swirl marks, water spots, light scratches, oxidation with the right pads and polishes are does the PC just not have enough juice to do it and would be a waste of money and that I would need one of the above more powerful machines in order for light correction. I also want it for general polishing and adding/removing wax. The Makita and Flex are well over $200 and I do not really want to pay that for a polisher unless it is really worth spending over twice then a PC and they are needed for light correction. I don't want to get the PC only to find out it is unfit for minor correction and I need to go with something more powerful. What do you guys recommend for pads and polishes, alot of people recommend a hook/loop backing plate, keep in mind I am trying not to spend too much and want the best deal for my needs. Thank you
 
Since Lexus have really soft clearcoat, the PC should be sufficient. I have an ES350, and I use the Ultimate Detailing Machine, which is a bit stronger than the PC, but I only run it at speed 4 or 5 and that is enough. I use the DAS Orange Pad (swirlbuster) with Sonus SFX2, followed by SFX 3 (sometimes). The Flex is nice and it would cut down a lot on the work, but you will probably only spend several hours polishing with your PC the first time around. You might want to consider the UDM though. My regimen is enough to take care of my car. Check out the results I obtained by clicking on my post: http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/101217-life-after-sea-sponge.html?highlight=life+sea+sponge



Do you have any pics of your car to see the condition of the paint?
 
Or, you can also get Menzerna SIP or IP, followed by 106ff and that will cut down on the time you will spend polishing. The DAS Orange Pad and the DAS Green Pad should do the job.
 
Lexus Black Onyx/Obsidian is single stage paint (no clear coat) and yes, it is very soft. You should be fine with the PC.
 
detaildoc said:
Since Lexus have really soft clearcoat, the PC should be sufficient. I have an ES350, and I use the Ultimate Detailing Machine, which is a bit stronger than the PC, but I only run it at speed 4 or 5 and that is enough. I use the DAS Orange Pad (swirlbuster) with Sonus SFX2, followed by SFX 3 (sometimes). The Flex is nice and it would cut down a lot on the work, but you will probably only spend several hours polishing with your PC the first time around. You might want to consider the UDM though. My regimen is enough to take care of my car. Check out the results I obtained by clicking on my post: http://autopia.org/forum/click-brag/101217-life-after-sea-sponge.html?highlight=life+sea+sponge



Do you have any pics of your car to see the condition of the paint?
Click to expand...



Thanks for the information, I have heard of the UDM but never really priced it although I heard a few complaints about its reliability so that has me a little concerned. So it seems like your saying as for as some minor correction I will not be at a big dissadvantage compared to the Makita or Flex and a PC should work pretty much just as well, just slower. I just did not want to get the PC to find out it does not have the power for small corrections like water spots, swirl marks, light scratches, etc.



Sorry I don't have pics of my car right now as my laptop needs a new motherboard and that is where the pics are stored. My hood could be a lot better and one of these days I think I am just going to have it repainted as there are too many rock chips, scrapes, knicks, and a few spots where there is some kind of white etching blobs that looks like was caused by tree sap eating through some of the finish that I duobt can be taken out by any other means then repainting, my dads black Acura CL has 2 of these similiar spots. Overall the paint is pretty good on the car aside from the hood, some scapes on the front and rear bumper which I might try to wet sand one of these days when I get up enough courage. In the next day or two I will order the PC and then decide which pads/polish I want and can get for the best deal. There are so many to choose from like Lake county, Griots, Sonus, Mezerna, etc.
 
tod071 said:
Lexus Black Onyx/Obsidian is single stage paint (no clear coat) and yes, it is very soft. You should be fine with the PC.
Click to expand...

I have heard there is no clear coat before on some Lexus forums on the black paint, I don't know if that is a good thing or bad thing. I do know the hood is extremely prone to rock chips and little knicks in the paint that other cars like Hondas, Acuras, Mitsubishi's seem much better protected against. My parents black Acura CL and TL don't have anywhere near as many rockchips and knicks in their hoods and they are driven more. I guess since it is soft painst it will be easier to correct. Not sure why Lexus would not use a clearcoat for black but maybe single stage has its advantages in that color where clearcoat is not needed.
 
Although this is not my car but it is a black Lexus, this is exactly what I have on my hood, which is some kind of treesap/bird crap etching that can't be removed from normal washing, hopefully I will be able to clear some up, found this on another website and it seems the guy was able to correct this with a PC and some kind of polish/pad combo. My paint is in similiar conditioner, maybe a little better.
 

Attachments

  • etching.JPG
    etching.JPG
    71.8 KB · Views: 55
I have my PC now I going to order some products. This is what I am going to try.



Mezerna Intensive Polish

Mezerna Final Polish II

Lake County 3 1/2 inch backing plate

Lake County 5 inch backing plate

1- 4" LC yellow pad

2- 4" LC orange pads

2- 4" LC white pads

2- 5.5" LC blue pads



I already have Klasse AIO and Jeff Werkstatt AJ and AJT.

Does this sound like a good setup to tackle my black Lexus GS430 that has never been polished but is waxed and washed? I have swirl marks(some pretty bad), oxidation, water spots, some sap/bird crap etchings, light scratches, and some paint chips mainly on my hood and roof. Can I use the 5.5" blue LC pads with the 5"backing plate? Is Mezerna FP II too aggressive for just general polishing like 1 or 2 times a year if I already got rid of most swirl marks or should I get another polish that is less abrasive or more or less for cleaning, hopefully something pretty inexpensive. Does Klass AIO or Jeff Werkstatt act like a light regular polish/cleaner that I can use with the PC for general once or twice a year light cleaning or polishing before I apply a protectant/enhancing wax or should a just get a dedicated light polish? Thanks
 
I'm quote new to this as well but I would try the least agressive combo first - maybe the IP with a white or orange pad and move from there. Inspect your results and then make a decision. Yellow is a pretty agressive pad. Just my .02
 
jswift2000 said:
I'm quote new to this as well but I would try the least agressive combo first - maybe the IP with a white or orange pad and move from there. Inspect your results and then make a decision. Yellow is a pretty agressive pad. Just my .02
Click to expand...



Yeah, I will try something less aggressive then yellow at first, I just want to have a yellow one just in case if I may need it, I would hope I can accomplish correction on the hood and roof with the orange pads and IP and then finish off with blue and Final Polish and maybe due the rest of the car which is not as bad with a white pad.
 
I was looking at Mezerna Micro Polish PO87MC and Final Polish PO85. What is the major difference between the two. Is one better adding after IP to eliminate any kind of hazing and one better as more of a general polish when little to no correcting is really needed that is done once or twice a year.
 
A few people have told me when working with Menzerna IP they really saw no difference when finishing with FP II or PO85 after IP and thought it really was not nessesary as the IP finished just as good without the FPII or PO85. I will be using a PC and have several pads coming. Has anybody had any experience like this? I have not ordered a finishing polish yet, just IP and would rather save 30 bucks if FPII or PO85 after IP does not make much difference. I was also thinking I could use a orange pad for the correction with IP and then a blue or white pad with IP afterwards. Is there anyway I could dilute IP so it is not as abrasive or with a lower concentration like taking some IP and mixing water or some other chemical? Thanks.
 
FIRST: Not all of the Lexus Black Onyx cars are without a traditional clear coat. There seems to be no logic/reasoning to it at all.



SECOND: You *will* notice a better finish using FPII after IP on a black car with soft paint. I promise.:)
 
I polished my 01 Lexus GS hood today with the PC, orange LC CCS pad, and Menzerna IP and was pretty dissapointed with the results. It really did not make a difference at all in the hood and I could not tell the difference between where a polished and where I didn't after wiping it down. It really did not make any kind of noticeable difference which was dissapointing considering I don't think the car was ever polished in 8 years and the hood looks pretty grimy under sunlight/floressant. The only thing I was pretty happy with was I 2000grit wetsanded some stubborn scrapes, rubbings, and after polishing over the area they looked alot better and some dissapeared. I will admit I did not press down on the PC when polishing and I just let the weight of the machine pretty much do the work because I did not want to damage the paint or bog the PC down. Some people said I should have put pressure on it for correction so maybe I will try that. I was hoping I would not have to use a wool compound pad to try to get rid of or lessen the oxidation, etching, waterspots, fine scratches, swirls. I am going to try using a yellow pad with IP and putting pressure on it before thinking about a wool compounding pad. Anybody have any suggestions or experience. I know a PC will not take some things out but I should notice some difference and see some decent results especially after looking at other people before and after shots using the PC. Thanks
 
I don't know what size pad you were using but the weight of the machine is simply NOT enough to get any work done. You will have to apply some pressure.
 
SpoiledMan said:
I don't know what size pad you were using but the weight of the machine is simply NOT enough to get any work done. You will have to apply some pressure.
Click to expand...



I was using a 4" orange pad, not saying it was just the weight as I had my hand on the top to steady it, so I was applying a small amount of pressure but not pressing down on it or leaning on to it, I will do that next time now that some people have said it should be safe and is need for correcting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top