New polisher or pads/product

K

king nothing

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I currently have an old school PC non XP, 4 and 5 inch hydro-tech pads, and megs 105 and 205. I have pretty much given up as I cant seem to get any results with the under powered PC. Are there pads and products that I can use to get better results with the polisher I have or would I be better served to get a more powerful polisher to go with the pads and products I already have?


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Noting that I have two of those PCs...I`d get a better polisher.

Moving up to M101 (from M105) might help a bit, but I`d still replace that PC. Takes me FOREVER to do significant correction with mine..or rather it *did* since I just never touch `em any more.
 
Would the m101 work with the hydrotech pads I have or would I need to invest in the whole system?


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king nothing said:
Would the m101 work with the hydrotech pads I have or would I need to invest in the whole system?


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Go Makita PO5000C and convert your PC to a mini with Griots 3in HD Backingplate
LC HDO has pads in both 5.5 and 3.5..

As for abrasives go with Gyeon Compound and Gyeon Polish and perhaps Clear Finish Endurance or Shine Supply Burnout for those AIO jobs or super soft scratch prone paints..
 
5" Microfiber pads will/should make a significant difference on that machine. Still rock my old Meguiars G110v1...which is the same as your PC.
A set of Meguiars DMC5`s, and some D300 compound might just bring new life to that machine. Did for me, anyway. Best of luck!
 
etnops said:
5" Microfiber pads will/should make a significant difference on that machine. Still rock my old Meguiars G110v1...which is the same as your PC.
A set of Meguiars DMC5`s, and some D300 compound might just bring new life to that machine. Did for me, anyway. Best of luck!
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This. Unless you wanna go Flex 3401 w LC Force pads and M101. Eats bad defects for lunch in 4 passes.

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king nothing said:
Would the m101 work with the hydrotech pads I have or would I need to invest in the whole system?
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I`ve never used the Hydrotechs, so I don`t know for sure, but I`d expect it to go fine as I`ve never found M101 to be very approach-finicky.

I was thinking about this thread earlier and- I *really* hope you come up with something you can afford to make this stuff easier. I`m adamantly opposed to people "struggling to master" this correction business as, absent weird factors like stupid-soft paint, it just doesn`t have to be all that tough these days. Most non-pros shouldn`t need to do correction very often anyhow, but when they do it shouldn`t be some endless, difficult chore that leads to frustration.
 
Accumulator said:
I`ve never used the Hydrotechs, so I don`t know for sure, but I`d expect it to go fine as I`ve never found M101 to be very approach-finicky.

I was thinking about this thread earlier and- I *really* hope you come up with something you can afford to make this stuff easier. I`m adamantly opposed to people "struggling to master" this correction business as, absent weird factors like stupid-soft paint, it just doesn`t have to be all that tough these days. Most non-pros shouldn`t need to do correction very often anyhow, but when they do it shouldn`t be some endless, difficult chore that leads to frustration.
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This might have been where I started, it`s not where I`m at...
All because of my tools, different polisher sizes 1" to 5.5" the best, most reached for are the longthrows, 12mm, 15mm.
Current favorite is Flex XFE7-15. That is one SWEET machine !

B)
 
Accumulator said:
I`ve never used the Hydrotechs, so I don`t know for sure, but I`d expect it to go fine as I`ve never found M101 to be very approach-finicky.

I was thinking about this thread earlier and- I *really* hope you come up with something you can afford to make this stuff easier. I`m adamantly opposed to people "struggling to master" this correction business as, absent weird factors like stupid-soft paint, it just doesn`t have to be all that tough these days. Most non-pros shouldn`t need to do correction very often anyhow, but when they do it shouldn`t be some endless, difficult chore that leads to frustration.
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I am really trying to keep this on a budget. So much so that I`m looking at the Harbor freight DA if I determine that I need to step up to a more powerful machine. It will be used for removing minor scratches and MAYBE dong a full correction once a year just on our 2 vehicles (2013 F150 and wrangler unlimited). I got the original PC as a gift and spent a bunch of money on pads, polishes, LSPs etc only to find out that I couldn`t get the results I wanted, so I got frustrated and set everything aside.


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Mary B- Heh heh, guess I can`t talk about people not needing polishers since I too have so many of `em :o But IMO I`d think a guy who`s just detailing his family`s two cars should be able to get by OK with just one polisher (that`s hopefully both effective and efficient). IMO it oughta just sit on the shelf unused for years at a time anyhow...but when it *does* need to do some work, yeah...a Long Throw will get it done with a reasonable amount of time/effort.

king nothing- I`m thinking of that potential for continued frustration when I advise to save up for a polisher that`s genuinely gonna solve the actually-get-it-done problem. I`d hate for that HF to join the PC on your Unused Polisher Shelf. If you do go with that I genuinely hope you prove me wrong, but I`d be surprised if it works out that way.
 
Try meguiar`s D300 D/A Correction Compound, with their DMC5 microfiber pads. This will significantly address your issues.

I also find that I prefer Menzerna products with Lake Country Hydrotech pads.

On that tool, I really like Meguiar`s M100 on the original Buff and Shine microfiber pads, the version with the orange foam interface, and black fibers. Very aggressive combo.
 
king nothing said:
I currently have an old school PC non XP, 4 and 5 inch hydro-tech pads, and megs 105 and 205. I have pretty much given up as I cant seem to get any results with the under powered PC. Are there pads and products that I can use to get better results with the polisher I have or would I be better served to get a more powerful polisher to go with the pads and products I already have?
Realistically I`d go w/ another machine= at least a Griots 6`` or the next step up to a Griots 15 using m/f pads...That`ll keep you going for quite a long while.
Click to expand...
 
So someone bring me up to speed- what is the best new polisher available? I have a makita rotary that I can work however I am always hesitant with it.

Is there something that I can use that has the power of my makita rotary but the finesse of my porter cable?

I find myself finishing with the PC after I’ve done the bulk of the work with my makita.

I’d like to avoid this!


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Striker said:
So someone bring me up to speed- what is the best new polisher available? I have a makita rotary that I can work however I am always hesitant with it.

Is there something that I can use that has the power of my makita rotary but the finesse of my porter cable?

I find myself finishing with the PC after I’ve done the bulk of the work with my makita.

I’d like to avoid this!


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There is no "best" polisher. You will get answers all over the place: Makita P05000c (dual mode-forced, and free rotation DA), Flex 3401 (Forced rotation), Long throw free rotation DAs (Rupes 15 and 21 mm Bigfoot, Rupes 15mm and 21 mm Mark II Bigfoot, Rupes Duetto 12 mm, Griots Garage 15mm and 21mm BOSS, Flex XFE7-15), Rupes Mille, and a lot of others that I haven`t mentioned yet.

The major difference is the type of work you are expecting that the new polisher will do, and the cars that you work on. In very general terms, if you want the polisher to be able to get through large areas of curved surfaces (of the car body), then you probably want a force rotation polisher as it will tend to stall less; if the surfaces you are working on are mostly flat, then you want a long throw polisher of some type. You can make a long throw polisher go around curved surfaces, it just takes more time and concentration to make sure that the pad is rotating (i.e. not stalling). You could also look at the dual mode Makita PO5000c, as it has both fixed rotation and free rotation modes, although the free rotation mode is probably no better than your PC. In fixed rotation, it has a reputation of being a little bit better at paint correction that the Flex XC3401. The long throw polishers do cover more area than the fixed rotation polishers, but being free rotating, can stall on extensively curved surfaces. You need to think about what uses your new polisher will be put to, and what you expect it to bring to your polishing efforts that the PC and rotary you now own do not.
 
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