new paint - wet sand polish ?

A

amgtorre

New member
My car was repainted



It's got a noticeable orange peel



I'm planning to wet sand it , and polish



I do not own a polisher , and I'm planning to get one, I'm not sure a DA polisher will help much after wet sanding ...

altough a lot safer, if I get a rotary , I have an old jeep cherokee that needs to be polished, so I can use that to practice.



Here are a couple of pics of the hood showing the orange peel

100_3102.jpg




and a close up, same area

100_3100.jpg




so wet sanding and polishing is the way to correct this, right ?

and a rotary will be best (faster) ?



Thanks for your comments!
 
it was refinished because the top was all white due to being to long in the sun and neglected

the hood and front bumper were full of paint chips

the doors were starting to get oxidized

same as the boot

a couple of deep scratches ,

door dings



I do not know whow many coats of clear, but I can ask the painter



I basically paid for the cost of the paint.



A small area of the roof was wet sanded , less than 1" square, it is now smooth, no orange peel, hand polished so it is a bit dull.
 
Why didn't they wet sand the finish to closely match your current finish?



Anyway, ask if it was cured in a spray booth via heat. If so, wet sand away. If not, do not sand it for at least 30 days, but most paints today are waterborne.



Have you've ever wet sanded a finish before?



Deanski
 
I wetsanded my mustang the day after I painted it, 3 coats color 4 coats clear. Wetsanded with 1500 grit and buffed with a Makita 9227, foam pad, and megs medium cut followed by a good polishing



l_e043c9a8b39b0bb239fa25b5efcfa325.jpg




It was only my 2nd paintjob, so i wasnt exactly a professional, i had to wetsand out a couple of runs and sags. I was told the sooner i addressed the problems the better. I've never heard anyone say wait 30 days.



l_ed315b05d1a20a5730f1f1adb65a2ce4.jpg
 
There are more variables that you want to know. Don't just sand and polish

away without knowing if there will be enough clear afterwords. Imagine your

paint job failing in a short time and having to refinish again because of

insufficient film build; not enough UV protection.



I asked about the price because it can reveal a lot. Not all paints are the

same... it looks like you got, basically, a "quick" job and likely only 2 coats

of clear was shot which isn't enough to be sanding and polishing.



Is there s warranty? Was it a Maaco/1Day paint job?
 
Paint takes a while to fully cure, so 30 days can be a safe time to wait before

apply a wax/sealant. And there is an optimal time to be sanding and polishing.

Generally, you have only a few days before the paint starts really getting hard.
 
I'm not a pro but I have sprayed orange peel like that myself. A DA wouldn't touch it, had to wet sand and use a rotary. With a little patience you'll be fine.
 
Flashtime said:
There are more variables that you want to know. Don't just sand and polish

away without knowing if there will be enough clear afterwords. Imagine your

paint job failing in a short time and having to refinish again because of

insufficient film build; not enough UV protection.



I asked about the price because it can reveal a lot. Not all paints are the

same... it looks like you got, basically, a "quick" job and likely only 2 coats

of clear was shot which isn't enough to be sanding and polishing.



Is there s warranty? Was it a Maaco/1Day paint job?
Click to expand...



The job was not quick , they had the car for 4 weeks.

Other than the orange peel it has no other issues.



It has been 2 months since it was painted.



I've left a message to the painter to find out how many clear coats does it have ...



I have wet sanded a car over 30 years ago helping my Dad refinish a Ford Galaxy 500. Polishing at that time was by hand and it took us many, many weekends.



Thanks for the comments from everyone.
 
amgtorre- I'd take it back and have *them* fix it. "Fix it" being a broad net to cast as it simply oughta match the factory paint (including the texture).
 
How long they had the truck and how long they actually took are different

things.



There are many approaches to "painting" a vehicle. Never assume that it's all

the same. The price and quality of the materials can be dramatic.



Also ask about the materials he used. Specifically the clear coat (part number).

Generally, for most budget refinish jobs, only 2 coats are shot. If there is to be

some sanding and polishing 3 or more coats *should be done; regardless of

brand. It's not only about the quality of the clear (UV inhibitors) but also the

film build. If you know what clear was used, the manufacturer data can easily

be found and a slew of other other information that you really want to know.



I would hate to see you go through all the trouble for something that may fail

in a short period of time.
 
Hmm, only certain paints you can take out wetsand marks with a PC. It completely depends on how soft the clearcoat you are working with...
 
the painter told me he did 3 coats of clear, he can sand it polish it for me sometime in the next 4 weeks for a charge, or I can it give it a try



here is the car I'm talking about



100_2791.jpg




100_2794.jpg




and the vehicle I can use for practice is this one :

ago102008Huaxtla043.jpg
 
Deanski said:
Anyway, ask if it was cured in a spray booth via heat. If so, wet sand away. If not, do not sand it for at least 30 days, but most paints today are waterborne.
Click to expand...





Can someone explain to me why there's a need to wait 30 days? I know of many shops who don't even have a booth that sand the day after without any problems. :nixweiss



Also, most shops are not using waterborne paint yet. There's only 1 or maybe 2 companies that are producing a water clear. Most of the shops spraying water are using a water'd base with a solvent clear.
 
I'd only suggest using Megs Unigrit paper-2500 would be a good choice. You could go more aggressive with Unigrit 2000 but you really need a rotary, wool pad and compound to remove the sanding marks.
 
The reason why they wait is to let the paint cure and off-gass solvents.



This was true with solvent based paints, not todays waterborne paints.



Even when they shot solvent base, it's workable to a degree and yes it can be sanded, polished, BUT NOT WAXED, as you wanted the solvents to escape.



In untrained hands, we've always said to wait 30 days for paints to cure fully in an effort to prevent those unskilled from damaging the finish.



Yes, you can modify paint once it's shot and not fully cured, but this takes skill and trained eyes to accomplish this. It can be sanded, polished, and even glazed.



Regards,

Deanski
 
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