new paint job needs buffing?

Y

YoSteve

New member
Yo Steve,



I recently had a new paint job done in January of this year.

My question for you is do I need to have a professional detailer buff it?

I was told that any new paint job needs a buff after about a month of being re-sprayed?

I also might want to think about a wet sand not soo much for the OP but I ****ed up and clayed the hole car with (**EDIT**)water from my "well" which I now see that I need some type of filter system for my water because the hose shoot's dirt and sediment from the earth. So when I clayed with that water it was like dragging dirt and rock over every inch of my once perfect new paint... :(

Any advice would be cool, you may recommend that I post my problem on the Autopia MB and I will if you think that is a good idea.



Thanks

Matt
 
I wouldn't wet sand your car because of the clay mishap. You can use a polish which is abrasive but not "as" abrasive as wet sanding.



You'd be surprised how effective a polish can be. You just need to take your time and it sure will take alot of time.



I didn't know you needed your car to be wet sanded after having one area re-sprayed, I don't know man, I would look into that a little more. DLW on this fourm used to work in a body shop.
 
how did the shop paint your car. did they have a down draft heated spray booth. what kind of paint did they use. You should not have to wet sand your car. The shop that painted your car should have taken car of that for you. How did the paint job come out. Do you have fish eyes, orange peel, is the clear coat peeling off.?
 
Hello this is Jimmy Long the fellow with the New Paint job.

I should of made my post more clear.

This year my 1995 GTi VR6 got a brand new paint job the whole car was painted in the same stock color which is "Flash Red" now this is NO show car and I just wanted to get some fresh paint. We also did replace F&R bumpers Hood and modified all 4 fenders by pulling the fender arch's 1 1/2" - 2". Now the paint used was not OE from VW it was a paint called "Diamont" made by "R&M" my bodyshop man says this is a good product. I DO NOT have any major problems such as "Fish Eye" or "Clear Fail" I do however have OP but I can live with that and expected that as I only paid $3,500. for the whole job body work and all. Now to address my current problem, my first question was we did not touch paint as of yet except for a wash and a clay bar. I have heard from different people that after a new paint job cures about a month or so the body man should of buffed the car b4 he gave it back to me? Well that was not the case with my body man I got the car back untouched still with bodyshop dust on it. SO all I did was give the car a wash with "Dawn" and then a wash with "Zaino" as I was prepping the car for a Zaino treatment you know Polish Loc then some Z2. Ok well I messed up by using my water here on the farm which comes form a well system, ooopps that's were my problem comes in. The well water was contaminated with earth sediment such as sand, dirt, clay you know all that bad stuff thus ripping into my clear and leaving the finish looking swirled. Now I ask of you people what shall I do I have already fixed my water problem with a filter system so that's out of the way, but now I need to know how to go about fixing my swirls that I made? I would think these are not you average swirls because of the way they were made so I just thought that I may need a pro buff job. I asked the body shop man and he said to try to apply a polish and see if that helps and if not to my standards or liking he could "Jitter Bug" my car which I think means and orbital buff job BUT I am willing to pay a pro detailer to use a real buffer and do it right. SORRY for the long post I just could use some help!



Matt
 
here is what i would do....

take it back to the shop and make them rub the outside for you as they should have done it! if they want to charge you then you can do it yourself. We all have different steps we use but they are all along the same lines.

using a PC or rotary(on low) use some clear coat compound or vehicle correction cream and work it into each panel by machine and wipe off by hand. Then use a good machine polish and work each panel by machine if needed repeat each panel and wipe off by hand. take a look at the car see if the swirls are coming out.

sine the paint is so fresh and it sounds like the shop did not follow painting procedure, it is possible that the swirls are not on your paint but in your paint. if they are in your paint you can compound all day and get the same results. you may want to have the shop wet-sand your car, which they should have done as well.

Brian
 
Listen if you wanna make a good investment i would get the porter cable buffer and makesure to buy the metal backing plate from your local hardware store. Use what products you prefer for machine buff. Porter cable has the best buffer i think and so do others on the is board.

Professionals use high speed buffers that cover things up with bad glazes that show once you wash your car.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by TWOOD [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Listen if you wanna make a good investment i would get the porter cable buffer and makesure to buy the metal backing plate from your local hardware store. Use what products you prefer for machine buff. Porter cable has the best buffer i think and so do others on the is board.
Professionals use high speed buffers that cover things up with bad glazes that show once you wash your car. [/b]</blockquote>
Are you talking about all professionals or did you just have a bad experience with one. The pc is a great machine, but you can not compare the power of it to a rotary and a professional. As you said before that a speed buffer cover things up, what do you think the pc does. It is very hard to remove swirls, the deeper the swirls the harder they are to remove, and with some swirls or marks you need a rotary as the pc will not cut it. As for bad glazes dont know what you use or the pro's you know but i only use highend products with the best possible results. When the pc dont cut it you need a rotary. You can not do heavy compounding with a pc, if you use it you will not get the best results.
Brian
 
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