New paint-how long to wait?
- Thread starter Suzanna
- Start date
Personal opinion, but you should be able to wash and polish, (just polish with no protection in it), right away, but wax or sealant should wait for a while. I would probably give it 30 days, but your best bet is to ask the people that did the painting and follow their instructions. If you follow their guidelines and there is any problem, they can't blame it on you for waxing it too soon.Suzanna said:
Charles
dr_detail
Beautification Specialist
Only if using "body shop safe" materials, can you safely wash & polish right away. 3M, Meguiars, Car Brite, and Auto Magic (as well as many others) all have products that fall into this category. As an safe alternative to waxing, Auto Magic's BC-2 works great for meCharlesW said:
This is, of course, assuming that they re-painted as opposed to just doing some minor touch-ups (like chips). If it's the latter, I wouldn't worry to much about it after a week's wait.
Beemerboy
Just One More Coat
CharlesW said:
I'm with Charles on this one washing anytime, use a good car wash soap. Call the dealership and see what they say, typically glazes are OK on fresh paint offer no protection to speak of but can keep it look shiny...polish is OK for the most part but the people that painted will be better served answering this question.
audiboy
Hail the power of Quattro
I think Charles and Beemerboy pretty much covered it.
Why would "body shop safe" be of any importance after the painting has been done?dr_detail said:
Isn't the reason for "body shop safe" products to prevent having a problem when applying the paint? Not just the products on the surface, but even some of the stuff in the air when some products are used anywhere near a painting area.
After the paint is applied, isn't the real concern with allowing the solvents in the paint to escape/dissipate which the application of a wax or sealant would hinder?
It's a question I will try to remember to ask my friends at the body shop.
Charles
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
CharlesW said:
Charles..it's just another way of saying the products should not have wax or silicone ...unfortunately silicone has gotten a bad rap as most silicones used these days are water-based. More or less it's just a catch phrase now compared to what was available years ago.
Suzanna..you can use a polish, read the labels of what products you own and basically stay away from waxes and sealants for 30-60 days. As others have said, talk to the people who painted it since you don't want to be accused of voiding their warranty on the work
dr_detail
Beautification Specialist
Would Poorboys' polishes be safe for use on fresh paint ??
Steve will probably jump back in here, but IMO the Professional Polish and the SSR1 would be OK. I don't think I would use any SSR more abasive than the SSR1 on new paint.dr_detail said:
Either of the PwCs and the PwS would not be a good choice since they would leave a wax/sealant behind.
Charles
Poorboy
Founder Poorboy's World
es
Yes Charles you are right We do sell the more aggressive SSR's to body shops that use them after wet/dry sanding on fresh paint, but for Suzanna's purpose, the Pro Polish or SSR1 would be fine.
CharlesW said:
Yes Charles you are right
We do sell the more aggressive SSR's to body shops that use them after wet/dry sanding on fresh paint, but for Suzanna's purpose, the Pro Polish or SSR1 would be fine.
black bart
New member
As to can you polish new paint that is exactly what the body shop does just hours after painting. If it needs polished take it to the people that painted it and have them finish their job.
Cure time can vary a lot depending on what the shop put on it.
I would ask the shop that painted it since they know what they put on it.
I have a friend the works in a body shop and I loaf their some times and I know that he can also mix more hardener and change the cure time so ask the guy who painted it he is the only one that really knows what he put on the car.
Any advice you get here will be just in general and not specific to what is on the car.
Since clear coat is so durable their is really no need to rush putting protection on it. Wait till spring polish and do a full detail on it then. It will be just fine their is no need to rush it.
Until time to seal it you can use a glaze on it to keep it really glossy.
Last year I had some painting done on my show car and I used glaze on it for 60 days before adding a sealant
Cure time can vary a lot depending on what the shop put on it.
I would ask the shop that painted it since they know what they put on it.
I have a friend the works in a body shop and I loaf their some times and I know that he can also mix more hardener and change the cure time so ask the guy who painted it he is the only one that really knows what he put on the car.
Any advice you get here will be just in general and not specific to what is on the car.
Since clear coat is so durable their is really no need to rush putting protection on it. Wait till spring polish and do a full detail on it then. It will be just fine their is no need to rush it.
Until time to seal it you can use a glaze on it to keep it really glossy.
Last year I had some painting done on my show car and I used glaze on it for 60 days before adding a sealant
When I mentioned this to my friends at the body shop, they showed me a bottle of Wizard's Shine Master. It is what they suggest to the people that think they absolutely have to wax their car immediately.
1. They know nothing about the durability of the product.
2. It leaves a good looking finish.
3. Unbelieveable, but it is supposed to be safe for fresh paint. They have not seen any problems with fresh paint after using it.
4. This is not an endorsement of the product, just information. I've never used it.
Wizards Products: <h3>Shine Master™ Polish & Sealant</h3>
Charles
1. They know nothing about the durability of the product.
2. It leaves a good looking finish.
3. Unbelieveable, but it is supposed to be safe for fresh paint. They have not seen any problems with fresh paint after using it.
4. This is not an endorsement of the product, just information. I've never used it.
Wizards Products: <h3>Shine Master™ Polish & Sealant</h3>
Charles
BPO1
New member
Sorry to say but BC-2 contains silicone and would not be recomended for use after new paint is applied and is NOT Body Shop Safe. The silicone will seal in the vapors that are trying to cure. Since they have no where to go if this product is applied you will have a GRADUAL spyder webbing effect that gets worse over time. It will also look like you've run your car through 500 automatic brush type car washes, I know, I've seen it too many times.Curing time is normally 90 day's from time of application of paint. Try Car Brite's Black Pearl #4 Premium Polish followed by #5 Final Finish both Sil-Free. Quite Impresive resluts.
silcone will not cause "spyder webbing". The webbing is when paint issues from the paint gun nozzle and is accelerated by the airstream in which it divides into filaments which extend and then break up.
As said numerous times before, the reason why you do not apply ANY kind of wax is because there is a release process with paint refinishing. This release process is where isocyanates escape from the primary coats of the paint job, through the clear coat. Once the clear coat has hardened wax can be applied. Most paint manufactures will tell you anywhere from 30 to 90 days. This is time frame is really just insurance for the painter & paint companies. MOST production body shops use extremely quick accelerators to save time and money. I wait 2 to 3 weeks.
To properly accelerate the curing process the vehicle should be baked ONCE in the paint booth (if acceptible) and left outside for good ol' mother nature to take care of the rest.
There are a couple of Wax problems that WILL happen if the paint isn't cured completely.
Wax incorportation/retention, which are smears or dull spots under the clear coat. This also can happen if the buffer does not know what he's doing and burns through the clear, and polishes over it. (with polish/wax)
Body Shop Safe products are mainly used because they contain no silicones as most here know. But, it's not mainly used because of the freshly painted vehicle that is soon to be buffed. No matter if the compound/polish is body shop safe or not... if the compound/polish seeps thru the clear, the paint job is contaminated. The contaiminates will need to be removed using a detergent & followed by a 10-15% oxalic acid solution. Body Shop Safe products are primarily for the other vehicles that have yet to be painted.
Silicone Deposits-
A common misconception is "fish eyes, trash, or dirt" in the clearcoat. These are airbourne contaminates (otherwords silcone) & in rare occasion, industrial fall out. I have personally seen silicones travel a half mile! A friend of mine had a custom rod shop near a Waste Managment facility here in Georgia. Well, at the plant they spray the insides of the trucks with silicone... long story short, it made tons of problems. I've also had local body shop clean-up boy spray a silcone based tire shine in the parking lot and the next afternoon the truck in the paint booth was fubard.
Charles hit it on the nail, but I just went a little further, and added some experiences.
So, PoorBoy's is body shop safe, eh? Cool... I just ordered a ton.
As said numerous times before, the reason why you do not apply ANY kind of wax is because there is a release process with paint refinishing. This release process is where isocyanates escape from the primary coats of the paint job, through the clear coat. Once the clear coat has hardened wax can be applied. Most paint manufactures will tell you anywhere from 30 to 90 days. This is time frame is really just insurance for the painter & paint companies. MOST production body shops use extremely quick accelerators to save time and money. I wait 2 to 3 weeks.
To properly accelerate the curing process the vehicle should be baked ONCE in the paint booth (if acceptible) and left outside for good ol' mother nature to take care of the rest.
There are a couple of Wax problems that WILL happen if the paint isn't cured completely.
Wax incorportation/retention, which are smears or dull spots under the clear coat. This also can happen if the buffer does not know what he's doing and burns through the clear, and polishes over it. (with polish/wax)
Body Shop Safe products are mainly used because they contain no silicones as most here know. But, it's not mainly used because of the freshly painted vehicle that is soon to be buffed. No matter if the compound/polish is body shop safe or not... if the compound/polish seeps thru the clear, the paint job is contaminated. The contaiminates will need to be removed using a detergent & followed by a 10-15% oxalic acid solution. Body Shop Safe products are primarily for the other vehicles that have yet to be painted.
Silicone Deposits-
A common misconception is "fish eyes, trash, or dirt" in the clearcoat. These are airbourne contaminates (otherwords silcone) & in rare occasion, industrial fall out. I have personally seen silicones travel a half mile! A friend of mine had a custom rod shop near a Waste Managment facility here in Georgia. Well, at the plant they spray the insides of the trucks with silicone... long story short, it made tons of problems. I've also had local body shop clean-up boy spray a silcone based tire shine in the parking lot and the next afternoon the truck in the paint booth was fubard.
Charles hit it on the nail, but I just went a little further, and added some experiences.
So, PoorBoy's is body shop safe, eh? Cool... I just ordered a ton.
BPO1
New member
As Stated BeforeAndrewW said:
The silicone will seal in the "Vapors" that are trying to cure) Never said that silicone causes "spyder webbing" It's the vapors trying to escape that cause it.Try Car Brite's Black Pearl #4 Premium Polish followed by #5 Final Finish both Sil-Free. Quite Impresive resluts.
jaybs02
New member
I am sure sure tha Suzanna's paint is probaby cured by now.
Maybe a new topic about use of silicones and it negative effects in a painting environment could be started, so thiis topic can get back on course
I hope that Suzanna's repair will not be noticed and that the car is looking as good if not better than new.
"J"
Maybe a new topic about use of silicones and it negative effects in a painting environment could be started, so thiis topic can get back on course
I hope that Suzanna's repair will not be noticed and that the car is looking as good if not better than new.
"J"
cut and paste my ass... read the run ons... xxxx ALL OF YOU! (excludes poorboys & texastb) this forum is the worst. it's like everyones out to get me because i said, BMW= BIG MONEY WASTED will never consult business with detail city or autogeek again.
BEEMERBOY + JAYBS02 = PRICKS
BEEMERBOY + JAYBS02 = PRICKS