New Mazda, go at this with your rotary and wool pad!

M

Mike lambert

New member
These are before any correction of dealership wash scratches!
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Ah, I see they`re still doing `em thin just like on my MPV. Yeah..not much to work with there, and I`m betting that the out-of-sight areas aren`t cleared at all (mine weren`t).
 
That`s the reason I told a couple of "clients" that I wouldn`t touch a Mazda.

Sheesh. Last time I saw you (you, I think) post readings for a Mazda, they were at 3+ and now they`re less than 3? OH DEAR GOODNESS.
 
Mike, that is really, really, low... 2.727 mil = 69.26 microns 2.391 mil = 60.73 microns..
Dan F
 
Heh heh, just when I thought I`d spotted the explanation :o I gather it was all under 3...

IIRC, no place I measured on my MPV was over ~3.10 (forget the exact number, was using my painter`s gauge instead of mine).
 
I think this trend of OEM surface paint/clear-coat getting thinner and thinner is of great concern to both consumers and car-care professionals and do-it-your-selfer`s in the near future. This sounds like "planned obsolescence" to me where a manufacturer MAKES (not wants to) you buy a new widget that they produce more often because they do not last. it is much different than a technology device, like a computer or cellphone, whose "new" electronics are rendered obsoleted by advances in electronic engineering and software when they are just a few years (months!) old.
For both professional and do-it-yourself detailer this means:
1) The need to have an accurate Paint Thickness Gauge (PTG) to KNOW where these thin spots may be.
2) Taping off sharp panel corners or seam edges to avoid inevitable burn-throughs at these ultra-thin places (IE; using 1/8" wide tape on such places, which may have never been needed before)
3) Using a polishing machine , like the new Griot`s Garage G9, that does NOT remove vast quantities of paint/CC during the correction step.
4) Do corrections less frequently or not at all to preserve this OEM finish for the (shortened!) life of the vehicle.
5) Use a long-lasting Last Step Product (LSP) like a coating that requires application every 2 years, rather than "traditional" LSPs that may have been applied monthly or bi-annually, for that matter OR the application of Protective Plastic Film (PPF) to take the place of CC that is very thin. I see this as an "economic opportunity" for both dealerships and professional detailers for application of both.

It may come to the point where ALL new vehicles will have a white base coat and the PPF will be tinted to the desired color hue of the buyer/leasee. This will allow the owner/leasee to change out the color of the vehicle when desired OR have new PPF that makes the vehicle look brand new or only replace areas that are frequently marred, like front fascias or lower fenders or door sills. It will look "funny" to see white engine bays and trunks or storage areas on all vehicles and a different exterior color.
Remember when Henry Ford said about his mass-produced Model T in the early 1920`s" You can have any color you like, as long as it`s black." We are going back to that!
 
IMO, for the few of us who actually care about things like this it gets back to "don`t mar it in the first place".

But most people don`t care, and I do question whether "paint failure" is a genuinely significant (functional) issue since it`s mostly cosmetic, and isn`t as serious as something like rust in the places that normal people never pay any attention to. By the time "worn away paint allowing the underlying panel to start rusting" is a concern, I`d expect something else will have that vehicle down for the count anyhow.
 
Great points on many things !

I can offer this -- If you don`t want to risk hurting something like a sharp edge, then Do Not put the running machine pad on the edge... :)

Trust me - you will Never be able to detect imperfections that are noticeable without a magnifier, on a sharp edge, so just leave them alone.. :) It`s a sharp edge, how much imperfection/s could ever occur on it in the first place??? Leave them alone... :)

I use only Rotary Power, and the only thing I ever tape off is rubber/plastic trim butted up right next to painted surfaces, and I tape it very straight, tight, 1 continuous piece of tape, and know how to slightly stretch it, and if necessary, put a slight crease in the tape going around really curvy parts, so it all looks even, and works better..

I guess years of learning how to tape up vehicles before priming and painting them, the same for dozens of houses, taping around windows, etc., I really learned how to tape smooth, tight, and no weird accumulations of tape in places, that can sometimes make your paint spray process go off because of the excess amount of tape jammed up in places..

The best thing about taping as much as possible in 1 long piece of tape, is that when it`s time to remove it, it also comes off quickly in 1 long piece..

You need to hold the roll of tape in one hand and use the other hand to place the tape on the edge and press it down, smooth it over, and keep pulling it off the roll with the other hand at the same time..
Just keep the tape feeding out with the, for me, my left hand, while the right hand fingers are pressing the tape down - just perfectly- on that spot, all the way around the area you want to protect..

And yes, you will need to be able to do this with the tape in the other hand, etc., as well.. Any good Painter can do all of this including gunning the vehicle with either hand..

I don`t know why this Mazda has so little paint on it, I think they are opening up themselves for a huge amount of paint failures that may even look like the one GM had in the I believe early 80`s when a huge amount of vehicles had very early paint failure and the Dealers ended up repainting all of them...

Let`s hope history does not repeat itself..
Dan F
 
As I said on Mr. Phillips forum, we all have read the 5 day , 100 hours of polishing write ups. I’d like to see one of those people do that on a New Mazda and leave enough clear! I’ll refer you to the Ammo video from the Acura plant. Pay attention to what the paint division manager has to say about clear removal. And that car has almost 26 mils of paint!
 
Mike lambert said:
As I said on Mr. Phillips forum, we all have read the 5 day , 100 hours of polishing write ups. I’d like to see one of those people do that on a New Mazda and leave enough clear! I’ll refer you to the Ammo video from the Acura plant. Pay attention to what the paint division manager has to say about clear removal. And that car has almost 26 mils of paint!
Click to expand...

Mike - Wow ! 26 Mils = 660.4 microns !!!

I don`t know anything about Mr. Phillips forum, but if they are talking about 5-day/100 hours of paint correction, etc., I don`t ever want to have to do that.. Why would it ever take that long!!!

Is it some kind of gloss-o-meter-mine`s-better-than-yours nuttiness ?? :)

And after all that work, some yokel comes by and scratches the heck out of it when he puts his binder on the hood, top, or trunk.. :)

Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
Great points on many things !

I can offer this -- If you don`t want to risk hurting something like a sharp edge, then Do Not put the running machine pad on the edge... :)

Trust me - you will Never be able to detect imperfections that are noticeable without a magnifier, on a sharp edge, so just leave them alone.. :) It`s a sharp edge, how much imperfection/s could ever occur on it in the first place??? Leave them alone... :)

I use only Rotary Power, and the only thing I ever tape off is rubber/plastic trim butted up right next to painted surfaces, and I tape it very straight, tight, 1 continuous piece of tape, and know how to slightly stretch it, and if necessary, put a slight crease in the tape going around really curvy parts, so it all looks even, and works better..

I guess years of learning how to tape up vehicles before priming and painting them, the same for dozens of houses, taping around windows, etc., I really learned how to tape smooth, tight, and no weird accumulations of tape in places, that can sometimes make your paint spray process go off because of the excess amount of tape jammed up in places..

The best thing about taping as much as possible in 1 long piece of tape, is that when it`s time to remove it, it also comes off quickly in 1 long piece..

You need to hold the roll of tape in one hand and use the other hand to place the tape on the edge and press it down, smooth it over, and keep pulling it off the roll with the other hand at the same time..
Just keep the tape feeding out with the, for me, my left hand, while the right hand fingers are pressing the tape down - just perfectly- on that spot, all the way around the area you want to protect..

And yes, you will need to be able to do this with the tape in the other hand, etc., as well.. Any good Painter can do all of this including gunning the vehicle with either hand..

I don`t know why this Mazda has so little paint on it, I think they are opening up themselves for a huge amount of paint failures that may even look like the one GM had in the I believe early 80`s when a huge amount of vehicles had very early paint failure and the Dealers ended up repainting all of them...

Let`s hope history does not repeat itself..
Dan F
Click to expand...

Ford in the mid seventies had bad problems with paint adhesion. I bough a new Ford LTD II and all the paint came off the hood! My first new car and my last Ford. I had thought about buying a Mazda for my wife, they look good and the reviews are very good, but we keep our vehicles for awhile and I know I would be correcting any vehicle my wife gets, so it looks like a New Volvo or used BMW in our future.
 
Stokdgs said:
I don`t know why this Mazda has so little paint on it, I think they are opening up themselves for a huge amount of paint failures that ..[end].. up repainting all of them...
Click to expand...

Unless they`re genuinely afraid of what you might do to their business, IME you`re just gonna get blown off the way I was over all my Mazda`s (and Subarus, and and and) issues.

People aren`t gonna die over paint failures, and look how little gets done (or how slowly its addressed) over issues that *do* result in deaths!
 
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