New Car Paint

Mudd

Mudd

New member
What are the steps to protect the paint on a new car. Is it necessary to clay or can I go straight to paint protectant and wax.
Thanks,
 
You have to do a baggie test to see if it needs to be clayed - its likely it does. I would IronX it as well.

Despite what others have experienced, my experience is the paint on a new car rarely needs any polishing.

But, you have to assess the paint like any other vehicle. The car may be "new" - but It could have been sitting outside for months.
 
IMHO - ALWAYS CLAY.......

People think that just because it's new it doesn't need clay.

Here are some pics of clay off a brand new car










I think too many people rely on one "baggie swipe" and figure the car is completely good.

Claying really doesn't take very long and it will make your detailing easier as well as future maintenance easier

these pics are all from one car
 
Mudd said:
What are the steps to protect the paint on a new car. Is it necessary to clay or can I go straight to paint protectant and wax.
Thanks,
Click to expand...

Question?

Are you talking about a new car or a fresh repaint? Two different approaches is why I ask.
 
IMO, go with washing the car first following up with a visual inspection of the paint when it's clean then follow up with clay bar job. Now I have a question to the OP....do you plan to polish/compound the paint with a machine? if you do then follow up with polishing the paint then a wipe down to inspect the finish to make sure it will be ready for a protection product..like a wax or sealant. I recommend going with a sealant for durability and protection of your hard earn money and time you put into it. Always follow up after each wash with a detail spray that matches to the product you use to protect it. The great folks at the Autopia Car Care Store has a great " How-To Articles and Car Care Advice " on their site that you should read up on.
 
This is a new 2014 car. I asked that the dealer not let their people put anything on the car such as wax or sealent because I have heard stories about them putting a lot of swirls in the paint. Now I just want to put a protective sealent and wax on the car.
 
Mudd said:
This is a new 2014 car. I asked that the dealer not let their people put anything on the car such as wax or sealent because I have heard stories about them putting a lot of swirls in the paint. Now I just want to put a protective sealent and wax on the car.
Click to expand...

Thanks...then as suggested, wash with a good car soap...then clay the whole car to get the paint as clean as possible. You could use a light polish at this point, but since it's new I wouldn't...I like the shine of a wax on a sealant, takes a few extra steps but gives a quality shine and protection.

My go to is PB EXP for sealant and then follow that with Nattys Red paste wax
 
If possible this is what I do for off the lot new cars.
Pre soak with CG Citrus wash and gloss. Let it dwell as long as possible while keeping the car wet.
Power wash rinse.
Take the nozzle off your hose and sheet rinse the car. (No water pressure)
At this point you should be able to dry the car in 5 minutes.
Check for contamination. Plastic bag swipe the entire car. I only clay the spots that are rough with fine clay and plenty of lube. (No need to touch the paint if it's not contaminated.)
If you have to clay wash and dry the car again.
Seal and wax.
Then to the rims. Jack up the car and remove each rim. Wash with a quality wheel cleaner. Sheet rinse the rims and final dry with compressed air if you have it. Seal and wax the entire face of wheel. I use Finish Kare Hi-Temp wax for inside of rim and barrel. (I use it as well in the engine bay.) Do that for each rim twice a year and you will be able to clean your rims with car wash shampoo and very easy to take care of. Before you put the rims back on treat the wheel wells with vinyl, plastic rubber treatment. ( I use CG VRP)
Remember the more times you touch the car the more chances you can scratch the paint. And it does not take much to scratch paint.
 
Unless you plan on adding a layer every month or two you might want to consider a permanent coating

Sealants and Waxes only last 30-60 days typically
 
IMO, since this car is a 'virgin,' you should go through a somewhat extended (relatively) process of wash, clay, light polish (swirl remover) then wax/sealant depending on the color - light or dark. Claying is a no-brainer, there are a ton of ways that contaminants can attach themselves to the paint and only a good claying can remove them. The down side to claying is that while the clay itself will not scratch your paint, some of the contaminants it picks up can. Granted the scratches they leave will be small, but they will be there, and will be especially visible on dark paint. This is where the swirl remover comes in. Not only will it take care of these minor imperfections (plus I bet the dealer at least washed the car <improperly> for you leaving swirls), but most polishes have a chemical cleaning action to them that will remove what the clay didn't...light oxidation - yes even on clear coats, and the like. I have a SS red car and while clay does an excellent job of removing contaminants, it does nothing for fading/oxidation, leaving the car off-red/pinkish, which for me, Klasse AIO (advertised as NON-abrasive) took care of nicely.

Once you've washed, clayed and polished, your paint should be nice and clean, but the "pores" (microscopic hills and valleys etc) will be open and susceptible to accumulating dirt and contaminants again, this is why you need a good wax/sealant, to close off these "pores" and prevent dirt & contaminants from getting in and dulling your paint.

Picture a slab of concrete, it looks smooth at a distance, but when you look closely, you can see all the hills and valleys...that is the same as your paint...where dirt and debris can collect. A layer of concrete sealant will close off those valleys, preventing the dirt/debris from collecting, the same as a paint sealant does for your paint. Now all that's needed are regular washings to remove dirt etc, from the surface of the paint where they've collected. This is when you start using the baggie test, after the paint has been properly cleaned and sealed. I would say every few weeks or so, unless you notice unusually fast erosion of the sealant layer, such as behind the tires from kicked up road spray, or bugs that don't want to come off during the wash.

Other than that, once everything is done, regular washings (depending on weather conditions, & your Obsessive-Compulsive level...I can do it 2 - 3 times a week easily if the wife lets me) should be enough to keep your car in good shape between touch ups of the sealant layer.
 
I've done 2 new cars in the last few months. I used the same process for both. One black and one silver.

Decon wash with Dawn or CG Citrus Wash
Clay
Rewash to remove clay and lube residue
blow dry and towel remaining with Cobra WW
BF TPnS
BF WDAFPP
BF CS

One the black car I added a coat of BF MS Paste Wax on top of the CS.

I would highly recommend claying a new car and I would also use at least a light polish before putting on a sealant or wax.
 
Wow, thanks everybody for the advice. It blows my mind that so many people are kind enough to take time out of their day to help someone they don't even know. THANKS
 
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