New 2005 Silver Honda CRV..what to do...

S

SmoothAsGlass

New member
Just purchased a new 2005 Silver Honda CRV and would appreciate any and all suggestions of what product(s) would be best to use with my PC. No problems obviously, just looking to achieve the ultimate gloss.

Would Meguiars NXT do the job?
 
I didn't care for NXT on silver. It looked nice for 3 or 4 days and then it started to white out and the flake was totally muted.

I'd clay the car to remove any rail dust or contaminants and go with one of the options below. I think you'll be very happy with them.

AIO or Vanilla Moose + EX-P (you can top with Natty's for the best of both worlds)

AIO + 4* UPP

Both of these combos are outstanding on silver. AIO by itself looks so good you may be tempted not to top it, but with EX-P or UPP you'll be glad you did.
 
Thanks for the response....actually, I know what you mean about NXT. I used it on my previous Acura RSX and while it was great the first couple of days, the effects sure didn't seem to last long.

I have used clay before on my Acura and was always impressed with the results, however, I never thought of using it on a brand new car.

Sorry for all the questions, but would appreciate any and all feedback:

1. How often you would clay it after the initial time?

2. How often you would use AIO?

3. Is AIO a cleaner and a polish all is one? Would that be necessary on a brand new car after it is clayed, or just go right to a wax?

4. Would it be a mistake to clay it and then go with 4 Star's Ultimate Paint Protection?

5. Does Meguiars offer any product that compares to 4 Star's Ultimate Paint Protection?



mtodde said:
I didn't care for NXT on silver. It looked nice for 3 or 4 days and then it started to white out and the flake was totally muted.

I'd clay the car to remove any rail dust or contaminants and go with one of the options below. I think you'll be very happy with them.

AIO or Vanilla Moose + EX-P (you can top with Natty's for the best of both worlds)

AIO + 4* UPP

Both of these combos are outstanding on silver. AIO by itself looks so good you may be tempted not to top it, but with EX-P or UPP you'll be glad you did.
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1. How often you would clay it after the initial time?
Whenver it starts to feel gritty again. If your paint is loosing slickness then clay. You can go by that obvious rule or do it maybe 3 times a year. It never hurts to clay remember.

2. How often you would use AIO?
I think this is kind of a whenver you want to answer. I love aio prior to applying a wax or a glaze. You can do your process and then have the AIO right before your LSP.

3. Is AIO a cleaner and a polish all is one? Would that be necessary on a brand new car after it is clayed, or just go right to a wax?

You will want to polish after you clay. The AIO will get rid of anything the clay may have missed and get rid of any other residue leaving the finish clean and slick. Plus it looks really amazing!

4. Would it be a mistake to clay it and then go with 4 Star's Ultimate Paint Protection?

You will want to clay and then AIO or VM somekind of final polish and then UPP.


5. Does Meguiars offer any product that compares to 4 Star's Ultimate Paint Protection?

As far as looks im not sure. But i know they have sealants. I think #20 is a sealant. You dont necessarrily need to go with a sealant. You can just go with a carnauba wax.

Hope That Helps! Congrats on the new car!

Greg
 
SmoothAsGlass said:
I have used clay before on my Acura and was always impressed with the results, however, I never thought of using it on a brand new car.
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My dad just got a new 2005 Accord last week and all I can say is WOW this thing needs to be clayed.
 
Greg, thanks for the response and all the suggestion.

If you don't mind, I have a couple more: :)

1. How does MENZERNA FINAL POLISH compare to AIO?

2. So the approach seems to be to clay it, polish/clean it, then wax or seal it. Is it better to seal or wax it for the final application?

3. Just want to make sure I have the right pads and speeds for my PC...speed 6 for products such as AIO (any polish/cleaner) and speed 3 1/2 for products such as UPP (final sealant/wax).

4. White pad on the PCS for products such as AIO and a red pad on products such as UPP?
 
SmoothAsGlass said:
Greg, thanks for the response and all the suggestion.

If you don't mind, I have a couple more: :)

1. How does MENZERNA FINAL POLISH compare to AIO?
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Sorry never used FP so I can't compare

2. So the approach seems to be to clay it, polish/clean it, then wax or seal it. Is it better to seal or wax it for the final application?
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There is a difference in appearance so it depends on what you are happy with, some people prefer both (sealant then top with carnuaba)

3. Just want to make sure I have the right pads and speeds for my PC...speed 6 for products such as AIO (any polish/cleaner) and speed 3 1/2 for products such as UPP (final sealant/wax).
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That should work well
4. White pad on the PCS for products such as AIO and a red pad on products such as UPP?
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Different manufactures use different colors, so if it's polishing pad for AIO and finishing pad for UPP then you've got it

HTH
"J"
 
Good luck and be sure to post pictures.

You would probably have good results with clay, SSR 1,ex, and natty's. You might wanna throw PB's pro polish in there, its a chemical cleaner, similar to AIO.
 
The ones I have are "Advanced" Lake Country Pads:

- 6 " Hi-Gloss C.P. White Polishing
- 6 " Hi-Gloss C.P. Red Finishing Pad




jaybs95 said:
Sorry never used FP so I can't compare



Different manufactures use different colors, so if it's polishing pad for AIO and finishing pad for UPP then you've got it

HTH
"J"
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I have a Silver Satin 04 CR-V. I did not like NXT on it either. I have tried VM/EX-P/Natty's and VM/UPP/Natty's and definately prefer the UPP combo. I think it is definately worth the money. I do my QDing with PB's QD+ and S&G
 
So you prefer VM over AIO?

If you wouldn't mind, could you possibly elaborate on the products and type of usage?

I am guess that I need to first clay the vehicle even though it looks to be in great shape since it is brand new.

Then follow with either VM or AIO? Do you apply your products by the PC or use the PC to remove them?

After the clay, would you apply just one application of UPP and then move onto Natty's and then so several applications of Natty's?

After that, can you just routinely apply Natty's or go through the entire process each time?


mtwedt said:
I have a Silver Satin 04 CR-V. I did not like NXT on it either. I have tried VM/EX-P/Natty's and VM/UPP/Natty's and definately prefer the UPP combo. I think it is definately worth the money. I do my QDing with PB's QD+ and S&G
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SmoothAsGlass said:
....I am guess that I need to first clay the vehicle even though it looks to be in great shape since it is brand new....
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Yes, you absolutely need to clay a new vehicle. I bought a new truck this year (white) and pulled out a lot of contamination with the clay. So much so that it made the clay change color. did the same thing with my mother's new car (white also). Go ahead and clay it right off the bat. It won't cost you much time at all. :cool
 
On my wifes silver Sonata I used
PwC applied by PC with Edge polishing pad (on 5) removed w/ MF
EX-P(2x) first layer applied by PC w/ edge finish pad (3-4) second layer applied by hand both layers removed w/ MF
Then topped with Natty's, applied by hand w/ foam applicator removed w/ MF

It really brought out the flake.

HTH
Good luck,
"J"
 
I'm probably one of the few humans in the detailing universe who hasn't tried AIO. Both my cars are silver, and after looking at others results, I liked the combo's with VM a tad bit better. Both AIO and VM are very versatile products. Yes, definately clay the car....I did with my new V and didn't feel it was wasted effort at all. Follow with claying the windows...this is a perfectly good way to get a bit more use out of the piece of clay used for the car and remove water spots from the sunroof (BTW...I cut my clay bar into four pieces for a 100gm bar, then if I drop it, I haven't trashed the entire thing and I also hold it over my wash bucket when refolding and kneading for the same reason). VM is very thin stuff and a little goes a long way. It can be applied with a PC or by hand. I do it mostly by hand for better control of the stuff around all of the V's trim and because there is more sling using thin products with a PC and more product lost to absorbtion in a large PC pad, but that's just my personal preference. I then apply UPP or EX-P by hand, 3 coats, with 24 hours between coats to allow full bonding and crosslinking of the polymers. I follow with Natty's, 2 coats, by hand wither 24 hous apart or 2 coats at the same time via the spit shine method. I refresh the Natty's about every 2-4 weeks with a single coat, let dry to haze, give a light spray of S&G to buff off with a plush MF, final buff with a CBT. Intermittent cleaning with S&W for light soil or QEW for moderate soil followed by PB's QD+ or just S&G, depends on my timeline..S&G is quicker than QD+ but has no carnuba so I try to do a QD+ at least once between coats of Natty's. I've also found that VM applied with a 4" pad and the PC on the V's trim and buff with a plush MF has kept a nice satin gloss for 8 weeks now despite Oregon rain. I also like PB's TR for cleaning and bringing back a nice deep black to the trim...heaven knows the V has plenty of black trim. Hopes this answers you questions.....Another couple thoughts, if you don't have the four inch Spot-Buf pads, might consider purchasing a kit...they make using the PC around the V's side panel trim much easier and check out the Wolfgang Polishing Pal...it can also use the Spot-Buf 4" pads and it really reduces the effort of hand application, makes it faster and IMHO thinner and more even application of any product you use it with Enjoy your V
 
And here's the fun part about asking for opinions on how to optimize the appearance of our paint - we all have one!! ;)

Admittedly my V is not silver, but it is still a light metallic. On a full "clay on up" detail, I wash the car (PB Super Slick 'n Suds), then clay with PB clay & S&W. Then I go on to Klasse AIO to polish it out. I follow that with PB's SSR's (2.5 & 1) as needed & top that with PB PwC. Then a quick once over with ClearKote VM gives it the wettest look possible before I start adding coats of PB EX-P (allowing 24 hours bonding time between them) to seal it for the summer.

I don't wax here in the summer as it is just too hot to expect any "longevity" out of the wax.

I use the PC with Meg's polishing pads to apply the AIO & SSR's, and a Meg's finishing pad for the EX-P. I apply the VM by hand with a terry applicator. I use plush m/f's to remove all the products.

I maintain the look with a once over with a California Car Duster prior to PB S & W followed by S & G.
 
How many applications would you do before applying Pinnacle Souveran? After applying Pinnacle Souveran, do you then just periodically apply more applications of Pinnacle Souveran or what approach have you found to work best with it?


SilverLexus said:
Klasse AIO plus Pinnacle Souveran also looks great on silver. :)
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Nice looking CRV,
Are you asking how many layers of AIO? due to it being a cleaner it will remove what you had put down perviously. so you would only do that once.

As for how many coats of Souveran... as many as will make you happy :D

"J"
 
No, I have applied 2 layers of UPP already and still trying to determine is it better to apply one coating of UPP about each month or do another application of UPP and then apply a wax on top of it

jaybs95 said:
Nice looking CRV,
Are you asking how many layers of AIO? due to it being a cleaner it will remove what you had put down perviously. so you would only do that once.

As for how many coats of Souveran... as many as will make you happy :D

"J"
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