Need Some Advice......

02 LTZ

02 LTZ

New member
Hello. I have been operating a detail shop in Kentucky for about 3 years now. I offer the basics (hand wash, hand wax, vacuum) and also have an extractor. I think I do a very good job on the interior of the vehicles, but I need some help on knowing how to detail the outside (waxing). All I do now is hand wax...no pre-cleaners or layers. I want my customers to have nice looking cars on the outside.....like it just come out of the showroom. Can anyone tell me what equipment and supplies I need to make customers vehicles look great. Also can anyone give me the steps to follow to wax a vehicle. Any help I get will be very appreciated.

I want to be the best detailer in my area. HELP!
 
I don't know if its been mentioned before, but I would suggest getting the Autopia eBook first. You can get it by clicking the store button at the top of the page. That is a fine guide to teach you technique on applying polishes and waxes.



Personally I don't know how you can opperate a shop for 3 years without having any polishing equipment. Are your services primarily just for people looking for interior details? I've heard of shops like that. Expanding to offer more exterior services is a great idea and will definitely bring in more business.



You'll need to get a machine. Probably just a random orbital polisher till you get the hang of it, or you could jump right in and get a rotary. It just depends on what services you plan to offer. Tell us a little more about what your plans are.
 
I know it sounds strange that I have been operating a shop for 3 years now without equipment but I have been doing everything mostly by hand. Mostly because I was afraid of hurting the customers vehicle. I guess I need to take the leap and learn, right. I detail for a dealership and they mostly like the interiors to look good. I could get more money if I detailed the outside too. I don't really know what kind of equipment to get. I plan to try to become a complete automotive reconditioner. Big words huh? I guess I want to be able to provide interior and exterior services.
 
Hey Red Truck, If you want a buffer that's easy to handle the Makita is excellent! I purchased it at Lowe's for $200.00. You can get the cheap orbital for about $25.00. If you have a chemical guy that comes to your shop he should be able to help you with the waxes for you to use. Once you get the hang of buffing it's easy you won't hurt there car as long as you go section by section and by not applying to much pressure. I hope that helps:nixweiss
 
Polishing is art form that requires practice. There are far to many variables to describe.



1. Machine

2. Pad / Product combinations etc.



The best advice I or anyone can offer is to practice practice practice.



Now, you don't exactly want to practice on your customer's vehicles.



I'd suggest going down to your local auto wreckers and asking them if they would let you practice on some scrap pieces or even whole cars in the scrap yard. Pay them a hourly rate or something.



Bring some QEW with you to wash up the cars. Don't worry too much about what towels you use. Use some really odd cotton towels you may have around. No need in ruining the MF you have.



You'll need to bring a generator with you, so if you don't have one already, rent one for the day from the Rent-A-Tool shops.



Seriously, practice on scrap pieces until you really get a feel for the machine, pad and product application.



Then, and only then, go for it on a customers car.



Paco
 
Paco gave some great advice. You can also purchase a door or trunk from a junkyard and take it home. Secure it to a saw horse or other work surface and buff away until the cows come home!



Also, anyone starting to use a wheel polisher or a high speed rotary and they are practicing on a junk door or trunk lid, might I recommend that you actually BURN the paint. Burn the edges, burn the center with a variety of pads and product. This way you will not only know what a buffer burn looks like but you will also know how long is too long or how hot is too hot.



This can be some of the greatest buffer schooling you can get. Learn and know your limits.



Anthony
 
Thanks,



I am thinking of getting a PC 7424(I think that is the #). Is that a pretty good one? Has anyone used this one before? I found one on the internet for $129.00. I really need one of these for my detail shop. That way I can make more money!



I would love to learn how to operate one of these babys.
 
Whereabouts in KY are you? I'm frequently around the E-Town area and in Lexington now and again.....



You can practice on my truck!!!:D
 
Pikeville eh? I was there around 2 weeks ago. I am originally from Hazard. I'm sure you have heard of that town before? Glad I don't live there now or I could never keep my vehicles clean (to many coal trucks) :)
 
I used the search function once, and found it to be very helpful.



More specificly, surface temp of the paint while buffing is critical. Get an infrared thermometer from Radio Shack for about $40 bucks...



I was applying a sealant this morning with a PC and CMA Orange pad... noticed the pad was breaking up (towards the edge of the backing pad, on the back side), I was runnig the PC at 5 with, I think, minimal to no pressure. Here's the kicker - temp on the back of the pad measured 198 degrees! Who said a PC doesn't generate heat?



I didn't get a reading of the surface - it was probably only 100, but I was shocked to see the CMA orange pad (and the PC 7424) generate so much heat!)



My analyisis is that I'm running the PC way too fast.



Any thoughts?



Jim
 
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