Need more cut than 105 and a MF cutting disc

Meticulous

Meticulous

New member
Yesterday I had an infamous black 2012 Audi A8, with heavy swirls and vertical RIDs. Customer had car detailed last month by car wash and it looks like they used a brillo pad on a rotary, it was that bad. I was using a 5 inch backing plate on the Meg's MT300 with a Megs MF 5.5 CD, speed was 4800, bumped it to 5200 and also tried a slower speed with no luck. I used the KB method of spritzing water on the panel to reactivate the 105, I also compounded each section of the car 2-3 times, cleaned my pads with a pad brush on the fly and used 4-6 5.5 CD's and 4-6 4 inch CD's on the entire car. I also tried the new megs burgundy with 105 and HD Cut, HD Cut with Megs MF CD, and 105 and HD Cut with yellow foam BnS pad. Swirls and haze was removed, but the back and forth (vertical scratches) still remained. Customer and his friends were happy and impressed, but I wasn't. Thoughts ? Maybe pick up some M101? Lambs wool for the MT300?
 
You didn't have any Menzerna on hand? I have corrected two Audi's, an A7 and a S7, and both were rock hard and loved FG400. Lake country wool pad or CarPro flash pad is something else I would probably consider. Haven't used a flash pad yet, but I've heard great things about it on rock hard paint.
 
Lake Country Thin Purple Foamed Wool is a Beast, especially paired with M100, which is a great value vs. M101 $$$$
 
Menzerna 400 with a rotary polisher and the Lake Country foamed wool pad for the initial cut to remove the old bad swirls and the scratches the other guys just scuffed over when they did their half assed cut. Then, remove the new and improved swirls, the nice, shallow, consistent, and wax and filler free ones left by the Menzerna with another pass with FG 400 only this time on a dual action machine like the Makita BO6040 or Flex applied with an orange foam pad. Run the material till a good shine develops, wipe off the residue then, using just the worn out material on the pad to make a final pass and wipe that residue off. With a little practice this should get you the finish you need.

I realize this is only a hundred thirty words but really, that's all it should take.

Robert
 
For compounds I've found...

M100 is best on a rotary.
M105 cuts best but is finicky and dusty.
M101 cuts good, is friendly & finishes nice.

Many times the pad is the answer...

Heavy Cutting:
Lake Country 5.5" Thin Foamed Wool
LC Kompressor Purple Heavy Cutting

I like the Carpro 5" Flash Pad
Not quite as heavy as the above.
Cuts great and leaves a nice finish.
 
I'd recommend you give Flattop from Shine Supply a try with a MF xtra cut pad. If you don't like it, I'll buy it from you at full price + the shipping you paid.
 
I don't have a rotary and don't plan on getting one at this time. I have Car Pro flash pads, but did not have them in my possession at the time. So it looks like the LC purple wool and M101 would give me some serious cut. How does Flattop from SS compare to M105 or M101?

I have only wet sanded isolated scratches and filled chips by hand, never an entire car, but yes I think wet sanding would have yielded better results just not at that skill level and it would have taken 2 days to do this car. This was a mobile detail.
 
Meticulous said:
I don't have a rotary and don't plan on getting one at this time. I have Car Pro flash pads, but did not have them in my possession at the time. So it looks like the LC purple wool and M101 would give me some serious cut. How does Flattop from SS compare to M105 or M101?
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Very comparable to M101. It's performance/cut is very similar to M101. It dusts some, just like M101. Wipe off is very easy, not really different from M101 there either. As aggressive as it is, it leaves most hard paints LSP ready.

Just to give an idea, I own and use FG400/M101/Uber/HD cut and find myself reaching for FT more often. I've corrected several MB and VW/Audi with the combo recommended above as a one step.

I was a skeptic of the product line for years until I finally tried it. I don't believe you'll be disappointed if you try it.
 
jsou said:
Very comparable to M101. It's performance/cut is very similar to M101. It dusts some, just like M101. Wipe off is very easy, not really different from M101 there either. As aggressive as it is, it leaves most hard paints LSP ready.

Just to give an idea, I own and use FG400/M101/Uber/HD cut and find myself reaching for FT more often. I've corrected several MB and VW/Audi with the combo recommended above as a one step.

I was a skeptic of the product line for years until I finally tried it. I don't believe you'll be disappointed if you try it.
Click to expand...

Thanx, I have heard nothing but good thing about FT, going to have to try some.
 
Meticulous said:
Thanx, I have heard nothing but good thing about FT, going to have to try some.
Click to expand...

Whatever you go with be sure to share your results here. I'm very curious to see/hear your results/thoughts either way.

Have a blessed day Meticulous!

-Jake
 
jsou said:
Whatever you go with be sure to share your results here. I'm very curious to see/hear your results/thoughts either way.

Have a blessed day Meticulous!

-Jake
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Sure. Well that car is done for now, but I have a personal test car that is always heavily swirled due to automatic car washes that I will test some FT on.
 
FWIW, I used M101 for the first time the other day, spot-correction *by hand* on one of the Audis. Cut great, seemed much better in that regard than M105. Residual micro-marring cleared up fine with HD Polish.
 
I've used it by hand too with great results. It's going to my go to for spot correction by hand
 
Car Brite Workout is the heaviest compound ever found on Earth. It's like taking M105 and mixing it with sand. Awesome stuff when you need something extra strong. Try it on a rotary with a wool pad. Stuff can easily remove 600 grit sanding marks. Nothing compares. (Yes, I know guys, I said Car Brite).
 
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