need help with clay bar

R

rubenz

New member
ok guys i was told that this is the place to ask all and any detailing ?'s

well here goes.

I just bought a mothers clay bar kit with a lubricant and a carnuba wax. Well it doesn't really have any good instructions. so how do i use it? do i clay bay the entire car or just spots that seem to have debris/paint marks?

Do i wash the car before and after?

How hot is too hot to apply the wax?

Is there anything that i can do that will mess up the paint?

any other suggestions or answers to frequent problems with clay bars woud be GREATLY appreciated.

thanks alot :cool:
 
ok i read alot of the threads that i found wiht the search function about clay bars.

it seems like the whole process of cleaning and waxing the car is gonna take like four days for me to complete. (well not really)

But everytime someone asked about clay bars there were like 7 steps after the clay bar application.

Are all theses steps ACTUALLY required? of can i just wash the car at the local Coin Op place then clay bar it and then just finizh off wiht a wax. i can't really wash the car at my apartment so i would have to drive back out to the Coin Op to rewash the car after claying it. Can i just wax without re washing?

sorry for alll the ?'s but it's just alot more complicated than i expected. If it's that much of a pain then i might just take it somewhere to have it all done.:nixweiss
 
Welcome rubenz, this is almost the standard answer, but for claying technique I'd suggest a few title searches for old posts or (better yet) download the Autopia e-Book and check out its clay chapter (it is in the section you have to buy, but it's a good book to have around). It may be my personal opinion, but I found the little set of instructions included with the Mothers kit to describe pretty well how claying goes. It's not a hard process really and you pick it up pretty easy. Just don't let it dry out and don't use pressure. You can use car wash solution or the supplied QD for lube. Personally I don't "knead" the clay but just fold it over once and reshape it instead.



You can just clay parts that need it badly (just like anything else you can do) but I bet more than one person here has done that, only to find the remaining tiny bits of grit annoyed them enough to just end up doing the whole car!



Wash before, and after if you think it needs it.



It's best not to wax in direct, hot sunlight unless the wax says you can. Pull into the shade, let the paint cool down a bit (no more than "warm"), then start waxing.
 
rubenz said:
ok i read alot of the threads that i found wiht the search function about clay bars.

it seems like the whole process of cleaning and waxing the car is gonna take like four days for me to complete. (well not really)

But everytime someone asked about clay bars there were like 7 steps after the clay bar application.

Are all theses steps ACTUALLY required? of can i just wash the car at the local Coin Op place then clay bar it and then just finizh off wiht a wax. i can't really wash the car at my apartment so i would have to drive back out to the Coin Op to rewash the car after claying it. Can i just wax without re washing?

sorry for alll the ?'s but it's just alot more complicated than i expected. If it's that much of a pain then i might just take it somewhere to have it all done.:nixweiss
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Heheh, I replied just a minute after your post so I didn't get to read it first. Good for you, using the search function. :xyxthumbs It sounds like you just want a more simplified routine for your vehicle and just want to make it feel smooth and wax it right? Most of the people on the board want to (or attempt to) go all-out and many of the extra steps are just polishing to correct oxidation or swirls in the paint. Does your car have either of these or are you even concerned about them?



If your paint isn't in bad condition, you can certainly just use the Mothers kit and still end up with a car that's still better cared for than others. It won't fix any of the problems I mentioned, but your paint will feel terrifically smooth and slick, and the Mothers wax (which is apparently easy to use and very good for a cleaner wax) will protect it. When you're done you are still left with a useful bottle of QD too.



If you're done claying you can go straight to wax as long as there is no clay residue (shouldn't be a prob normally). As with waxing any other time make sure the car is clean and dust free first of course.
 
Before claying the car, is there a need to remove all wax that is currently on the car first?



I've searched around on the fourm and found people saying both ways but most people just say clay the car after a wash with no mention of removing the wax, is it because they "expect" us to know to remove the wax first or just because it's not a needed step?





Also, if I DO have to remove the wax, what is the safest/mildest way to do so? I'm sure a DAWN wash would do the trick but would that be hard on the paint??? maybe I should just not wax the car for a month then give it a good wash with standard car wash shampoo??? (I put on a coat of s100 every 2-3 weeks)
 
The clay will remove the existing wax. That's why there is a tiny little bottle of wax in the Mothers clay kit -- to reinforce the idea that you'll have to rewax any areas you clay.



Sean
 
Jonney_boy said:
Before claying the car, is there a need to remove all wax that is currently on the car first?



I've searched around on the fourm and found people saying both ways but most people just say clay the car after a wash with no mention of removing the wax, is it because they "expect" us to know to remove the wax first or just because it's not a needed step?





Also, if I DO have to remove the wax, what is the safest/mildest way to do so? I'm sure a DAWN wash would do the trick but would that be hard on the paint??? maybe I should just not wax the car for a month then give it a good wash with standard car wash shampoo??? (I put on a coat of s100 every 2-3 weeks)
Click to expand...



If you have prior wax coats like I always do I recommend removing wax. I had a friend who used a dish soap and it clouded his finish. I use a car wash only now. Wallyworld sells 2 3m products that will remove both waxes and sealants. 3M Adhesive, Sap and Wax Remover, and 3M General Adhesive Remover. You can also go to an automotive paint supply store and they have even less expensive products in larger quantities like Klean Strip Surface Prep. Remember let the remover do the work. Don't press hard. The Wax truly wipes off easily if the remover is allowed to set.



Using a wax remover beforehand has 3 advantages. It saves the clay for many more uses since it doesn't have to absorb wax. The clay will not have to go through the wax to remove enbedded particles. For a while, even after wiping most off, it provides an easier, lubricated surface so the clay bar slides easier.



Using the clar bar really is an easy process.
 
Hey rubenz:



I just bought the Mother's clay bar too. I am not using the wax though because i am going to AIO/SG/Sonus my car. It's a sunny 48 degrees in St. Louis right now, but unfortunately all the snow we got is melting and all the people are at the coin op today, so an enthusiast detailer would certainly not be too welcome at a coin op today, especially if he was planning to hand wash, clay, wash again, etc. I would love to get out there, but I don't think I will. If you use the mothers clay anytime soon, let me know how it goes!!
 
thanks alot for your responses. You guys are awesome.

yeah last night i read just about all the topics that were clay bar related and i seem pretty confident. one of you asked if my paint was really bad. well it's actually in good shape. the car is new with only 5000miles on it but it's just not as smooth as it should be.

so as it stands right now i just NEED to wash the car, clay bar the car, rewash if absolutley needed, and then finish wiht the cleaner wax right?

thanks:bow

edit due to the fact that i said the paint is as smooth as it should be. i added not.:)
 
Yep! It may not be "Autopian Hardcore", but it is easily do-able and not as overwhelming. Good luck. :xyxthumbs
 
As long as you wipe each panel down well after claying, there's no need to rewash the vehicle. Take your time, do it right, and you'll have no problems.



If your clay bar box didn't have instructions in it, let me know and I'll e-mail you either text or a .pdf version of the instructions.
 
Hey Rubenz im glad to see that you took my advice. Im accent718 from the hyundai board. Good luck with claying your car, i've yet to do it myself, im waiting for the summer. Like I said this is the best detailing car site ever I garentee youll be pleased.

;)
 
hey BMW530I2003, the kit works awesome!!! your gonna love it.

Ok here are the steps i took.

I first washed the car.

Second i clay barred the entire car.

Third i went back with the detailer spray and wiped down the entire car.

Fourth after i was sure the car was once again clean i began with the waxing.

I know this is not probably the PRO way to do it but it worked Very well.

My Neighbor used to be a Proffesional detailer and checked out my work. he was very impressed.

I dont' have a digicam but as soon as i get the film developed i will post pics.

Now another problem i kinda have.

What do you guys use to clean glass? i just can't seem to get the glass super clear.

thanks
 
What do you guys use to clean glass? i just can't seem to get the glass super clear.
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There are 2 great window cleaning products you can find locally: Stoner's Invisible Glass and Eagle One's 20/20.

For best results tough you need good microfiber towel and mix of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol. Wet your towel completely and wring it out till only slightly damp. Wipe your windows inside left to right and outside top to bottom, it's easier to see where you missed the spot this way. Do not wipe dry.
 
ok what ratio should i mix the water and alcohol ( the one your talking about is just rubbing alcohol isn't it?).
 
Yes, rubbing alcohol, remember you're using just enough to get your towel wet, so you'll need just a few spoons of alcohol. If your windows have heavy film use more alcohol, for weekly cleaning use water only.
 
I've heard lots of different techniques for glass. Among them are:



-MF and alcohol/water

-MF and water

-MF and glass cleaner

-newspaper (yes, newspaper!) and glass cleaner



Apparently the newspaper is supposed to work very well, but I haven't tried it (yet) myself. At the moment I use MF and glass cleaner. I think the keys to good glass cleaning is to use something lint-free (like newspaper or a quality MF towel), and to use automotive glass cleaner rather than household glass cleaner. Sometimes if you get streaking because you can't wipe it all off, I found buffing it with a dry MF clears it right up.
 
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