need help! washing car with no clearcoat tmrw

A

ASSALBERT

New member
i am washing my pastors old black toyota tacoma. from what i was told, the cars paint was so neglected that the clear coat is non existent. but the paint is still there without any type of fading but it has ALOT of swirls marks. here are the products i have on hand and i would greatly appreciate it if someone could help me out and with what products to use and in what order i should use them. i have the Mothers 3 step process which comes w/ a cleaner (#1) glaze (#2) and a pure carnauba wax (#3) i also have a bottle of Zymol cleaner wax along w/ Zymol qd, Meguiars NXT liquid wax, Meguiars NXT qd, a bottle of Eagle One Nanowax. this is what i have planned to do...

1. wash car with megs nxt wash

2. wash one more time

3. clay bar

4. mothers #1 cleaning step

5. mothers #2 glazing step

6. zymol cleaner wax

7. meguiars nxt or nanowax

8. then finish it off w/ mothers pure carnauba wax

9. qd the whole car

i am wondering about the 6th step which is the zymol wax, since its a cleaner wax, would it take off the glaze in the 5th step? should i just zymol it before the glaze? thanks.
 
If Mothers is a chemical cleaner it will help remove oxidation, so the paint will look crisper, but wont touch the swirls. If it has abrasives in it, it will help remove some.



Meg's Scratch-x or color-x would be a good start.



I hope your detailing clay is a fine clay, you may induce more marring than you can get out if you don't have an abrasive cleaner.



NXT has some cleaning and hiding abilities with its oils
 
ok, looks like i'll be picking up a bottle of colorx tomorrow. since colorx would take place of the zymol, would it be better to use the colorx before the sealer/glaze or after it?
 
Hey, it's great that you want to do a really good job on your pastor's car, but you have way too many products in there, you are trying to do too many things at once. If you are working by hand, you will likely not be able to do too much swirl removal, but you should still be able to make a big difference.



I'm not sure why you are doing two washes in a row. Do a good wash, then get a clean bucket of wash and use that to clay the car, then give it a good rinse. The Mother's #1 is going to be doing pretty much the same thing as the Zymol cleaner wax, so skip the Zymol. As far as the wax layering, I'm not sure it's a good idea to put the 'nuba down right on top of the NXT/Nano (not that it will hurt anything, you just might not get the full benefit of two different product types if the NXT/Nano hasn't cured fully by the time you go over it with the 'nuba and buff). I would pick one or the other, and just do two coats for full coverage. QD'ing after the LSP isn't really necessary, either.



IMO you have plenty of products and don't need anything else.
 
ASSALBERT said:
i am wondering about the ..zymol wax, since its a cleaner wax, would it take off the glaze in the 5th step? should i just zymol it before the glaze? thanks.
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Yeah, the cleaner wax would clean off the glaze, so jut skip the cleaner wax. I don't think I'd use the NXT either, or the QD at the end.



I wouldn't worry too much about putting on multiple LSPs, just try to do a good job and get something long lasting on there.



Only thing to think about related to the single stage is that single stage black is a very soft paint.



I myself would put Collinite wax on it after the glaze.
 
Don't bother with the clay bar, you will have a fun time trying to clay it with little/no clear on the paint (regardless how much lube you use). Sounds like if you want to do a good detail then concentrate on the shine and less on the swirls, then concentrate on the swirls after you have the shine. If the Tacoma is a 00' or so, the paint is more than likely to the point it needs to be buffed. Wax is not going to do it any real good. You will have a time with applying and removing, because the paint will soak it up, then you will have a wax removing problem.



My suggestions:

1. Wash it, do the interior

2. Buff it and do everything that you do with the buffing process

3. Don't worry about claying

4. Test the wax on one panel before you apply the wax on the entire vehicle. Check for quality after you remove it.
 
autoprecise1 said:
Don't bother with the clay bar, you will have a fun time trying to clay it with little/no clear on the paint (regardless how much lube you use)...
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I don't follow your reasoning...I clay single stage all the time and it works great :nixweiss



If the ss paint is very oxidized you'll load up/have to renew your clay a bit quickly due to all the "dead paint", but if it's in good condition the clay'll work same as it does on basecoat/clear. In either case, the claying is a good idea IMO.
 
Ah, good point, I skimmed right past that :o Thinking....



There are some single stage vehicles out there and I dunno from Toyotas....I'd be sorta surprised if a compromised (to the point of being gone) clearcoat paint would ever look remotely decent though. When ASSALBERT says it's not faded I don't see it as being b/c with the clear gone. In the absence of clearcoat, the basecoat part of a b/c paint fades/chalks pretty fast and it looks really awful.



Guess we'll all see what's going on when ASSALBERT starts the job. Being a big fan of beater-details I'm looking forward to hearing how it goes.
 
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