Is it as hard to avoid holograms with 1-2-3" backing plates as with larger BP and pads 5" and higher? Or is that it`s gets smaller buffer trails that makes them more difficult to see? And is it still so hard to polish with the new abrasives and pads on a rotary polisher when doing the last polishing step and not get holograms?
I have no experience with rotary polisher so is intrested on how it`s know days.
SWETM ---
As best as I can tell, and talking to some people who do production work very badly, it appears that when you rush the work, use high speeds, use the edge of the pad more than keeping it flat, there will be swirls, etc., in the paintwork...
I think that if you lift up and put the machine down while its running that can add holograms to the paint..
I never do this of course, but from looking at them, it might be what is happening there..
A lot of the defects are caused because the people are ill trained, use production type products that are made to somewhat clean the paint and hide defects quickly..
Perhaps they dont have good lights above and on the sides so they can see (if they are paying attention) what they are doing and if they are leaving each panel all swirled up...
I have had Clients with brand new Black Mercedes vehicles all swirled up, tell me that the Dealer said that the swirls are part of the Detail and dont worry about them..
Imagine!!!!
No one uses a Claybar to help clean out the paint beforehand, and probably everyone has seen a clean new claybar come out just almost black with gunk that was embedded in the paint that was never cleaned this way in its life, and probably had nothing but that nasty spray wax from the Brush-N-Scratch-Car Wash...
If a good wash with a good soap that helps remove wax, etc., from the beginning, and a good claybar/claytowel/media is used properly and every panel is silky-smooth, there will already be way less work for a Rotary to do and if done properly, there will be beautiful results quicker with no vibration to hurt body parts..
What has to be strictly adhered to in addition to what I have already said above, is that the pad must be moist, wiped clean a lot between passes, to get all the gunk it picked up out of the paint off so you are NOT re-cycling them back into your work, and that you do NOT put too much media on the pad to begin with, that you prime the pad with a pad conditioner and a little of the media you are using at the beginning, do not cross-mix media on the same pad, that you use pads that do not absorb quickly so they last longer, and that you have lots of pads available before you start..
The Rotary needs to be one that has soft start at 600rpm, so that you dont splatter all over the place and the pad needs some downward pressure depending on the amount of correction that is needed, and you are constantly LOOKING at the work, feeling how it is and slowing down or lifting up slightly if you feel it start to get sticky, grabby, etc., and either adding a little more moisture so it can continue to finish the process for that panel spot, or stop and gently clean off what ever is left if anything..
I personally like to work this process until there is pretty much nothing left on the panel spot, and I can see the difference compared to the area around this spot very easily, before I stop..
Sometimes depending on the paint type, it may take a few of these processes across the same place to get what you are looking for, but it for me, always comes out great, very clear, smooth, and glossy...
When I can read fine print in the paintwork (yes it will be backwards like a
mirror), then I know that it will be blinding in the sun for that sun check..
One machine, one little 1-1/2" spacer, backing plates from 6" to 1" and pads, very easy and fast to change out backing plates..
I use nothing but 5" pads and either a 3" or 4" pad for things like tail light lenses and headlight/foglights..
Dan F
