Need Help Pros! Porsche Paint problem!

Labster

Labster

New member
So I ran into a bit of a problem today. I have a customer with a modified Porsche GT3 and it's been swirled to hell! Anyway, I get a call today and I've done a few Porsche's in the past, mainly Boxsters but the paint was nowhere near this difficult to correct. I've tried just about every combination with my PC but nothing seems to touch it. Anyone dealt with newer Porsche paint recently with good results?
 
I've owned a few P-Cars - and some of the newer ones are a pain in the a$$. Even with mild marring, a one or two step process just doesn't leave me with perfection. Depending on how bad it is, I'll usually do a three to five step-by-step process, with fresh/new pads. If you're detailing under fluorescents ... you can think you're doing well until you see it in the sunlight. Detail to perfection with the halogens on and it'll dazzle in the sunlight!

It's not 'hard' to do right, but it's certainly time consuming. Very time consuming.

Good luck ...

(NOTE: there is an optional windshield application some dealers apply without much masking, if this gets into your pads/detail, you'll want to friggin kill yourself as it makes the car look lightly "fogged" in the sunlight. Find out if it's on the windshield and what they use to remove it so you can get it off the paint before the buffer touches the paint!)
 
JohnKleven said:
Porsches have soft paint and should be easy to correct. What kinds of problems are you having?





John
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I've tried IP with 4" orange pads and 6" yellow pads with #83 as well as other polish combos with the above pads and nothing seems to touch it. Granted I'm trying this with a PC. If I need to step up to a rotary so be it. My customer doesn't care how long it takes, he's putting it away for the winter so it's in his garage (by garage I mean it holds 8 bikes and ~10 cars with 3 lifts and more free room than I care to talk about). Let me know you're experience with combos that work well. It's black btw.
 
First of off, is the car black? You said you're using IP, is that SIP, or just IP? I always use a rotary, just keep the rpms low and work the polish quite a bit. Send some pics of the car if you have.





John
 
I worked on a blue GT3 not too long ago and the paint was harder than I expected. I ended up using PFW and SIP on a rotary for correction. It's weird becuase I worked on a similar color Cayanne earlier in the summer and it was extremely soft.



On my personal car (996 C2 Guards Red) the paint is pretty easy to correct.



Andy
 
I have a black 996TT and if you look at the paint, it scratches, but very very easy to polish, very soft paint. Depending on the condition, you may need to step it up to a rotary buffer.





John
 
Black? Ugh. I had real good success using #105 with a Meguiars polishing pad. It will leave hazing and holograms but it will take out the spider swirls. You will probably have to go back over it with #105 and a finishing pad before you go to a less aggressive polish. Single stage black Porsche paint you can usually correct with a PC but not the newer clear coated ones.
 
Scottwax said:
.. go back over it with #105 and a finishing pad before you go to a less aggressive polish..
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Hmm...interesting! So the M105 works well with a tight-pore finishing pad huh? I think you and I both lean towards aggressive product/mild pad combos (as opposed to the othe way around), but that combo wouldn't have occurred to me :think:



I'm learning as much as I can about M105 with the expectation of buying some eventually :D Woulda bought a bottle yesterday but my paint/body supply place didn't have any (hadn't even *heard* of it).
 
Accumulator said:
Hmm...interesting! So the M105 works well with a tight-pore finishing pad huh? I think you and I both lean towards aggressive product/mild pad combos (as opposed to the othe way around), but that combo wouldn't have occurred to me :think:



I'm learning as much as I can about M105 with the expectation of buying some eventually :D Woulda bought a bottle yesterday but my paint/body supply place didn't have any (hadn't even *heard* of it).
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Anthony Orosco also mentioned on black Porsche paint stepping down the pad first after compounding before getting into the finishing polishing. Calling him first would have saved me some trial and error!



I definitely agree with you about increasing polish aggressiveness before bumping it up via the pads. :xyxthumbs
 
Yea im going to start going that route by stepping up product but keeping my pads mild. It seems like the more i read that the way to go.
 
I think others already hit the nail on the head.



M105 & SIP on a PFW should knock out the swirls and scratches and follow up with M105 on a polishing pad.
 
I did this 997 last month, and the paint was so soft, I had to do several test spots before finding something that wouldn't leave buffer trails, or micromarring. It was in pretty good shape to start with, Bryan "gmblack3a" corrected it last year, so it only had light wash induced swirling and marring. I ended up using UltraFina with the Flex, and a blue CCS pad, at speed 5. That worked like a charm. I even did an alcohol wipedown, and let the car sit in the sun for a few minutes to double check...

Dogs381.jpg


Dogs380.jpg


Dogs377.jpg




Now, on that same car, the bumpers were in horrible shape. When Bryan corrected it last year in Atlanta, he spent 12 hours on it, and ran out of time before the client had to drive back to Charlotte, so he didn't get to finish the bumpers. The bumpers were rock hard, from the flex agent Porsche added in to the paint. On the bumpers, I tried everything from Presta 1500 with wool on the rotary, to UltraFina on the rotary, and what was happening, was buffer marks were being left on the bumpers, but no correction was taking place. I ended up having to use SIP, on a white polishing pad with the Flex. With this combo, I was able to put a lot of pressure on the Flex, and really work the SIP without the bumpers heating up as quickly as they would with a rotary. I then followed with a second round of SIP with the Flex, with no pressure, and then finished with Ultrafina on the Flex.



The metal panels on this car, and the plastic panels definitely responded oppositely.



By the way, here is the same car when Bryan worked on it last year...

http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-brag/99265-2007-black-porsche-carrera-s.html
 
Thanks for the help guys. Now the question arises, do I go with the Flex or Rotary? I need a new rotary, and my first flex gave me mechanical issues....
 
I have been working on my black 02' turbo and am having sucess removing wash induced marring with a flex, menz 106fa and a white LC pad. i was making the mistake a using a little too much polish on the pad initially and was leaving some hazing. Since then i gave it a good alcohol wipedown and used less polish and it has been coming out very nice.
 
If i have holograms introduced by a rotary buffer in a 993, will a PC be able to remove them? Was thinking of using IP with a white, and if it doesn't work and orange pad to remove.
 
weekendwarrior- Heh heh, you keep leaning on that Flex hard enough and you're gonna end up needing two of 'em ;)



windydog said:
If i have holograms introduced by a rotary buffer in a 993, will a PC be able to remove them? Was thinking of using IP with a white, and if it doesn't work and orange pad to remove.
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IME you should be able to remove holograms via PC...you can do all sorts of correction via PC with the right pad/product combo and holograms shouldn't be *that* bad. If the holograms *are* really severe that could be a different story...



But just because you *can* do something, that doesn't make it the best course of action. [Insert "buy a Flex 3401" advice here]



Now the question arises, do I go with the Flex or Rotary? I need a new rotary, and my first flex gave me mechanical issues....
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If my Flex died I'd buy another one in a hearbeat instead of getting one of my rotaries back off the shelf ;)
 
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