Need help for winterizing my auto.

S

silvercookie

New member
i dont even know if winterizing is a word but you get the idea.



So i have a 2005 Subaru WRX in PSM (platinum silver metallic.)

the last detail i did contained of meguiars gold class wash.

megiuars smooth claybar kit.

then megiaurs gold class wax applied with a buffer.



now the bufer i got is minorly adjustable, goes up to about 1500rpm.

its old but gets the job done.



apparently subaru paint is very soft.



what i need to know is, what should i use for a polish/wax and etc.



whatever would be the most durable.



thanks in advance.
 
yes but im talking about stuff specific for soft paint.



if another car has more layers of clear coat than mine, then a more agressive polish/wax will burn right through it.
 
Silvercookie -



I have a Legacy GT, and am going with this combination:



polish - menzerna po203s

sealant - duragloss 105



I'm told Collinite 845 is a better wax for the winter because of durability, but apparently it's quite tricky to apply/remove. I'm a first-time detailer and was told these 2 work very well and are easy to use.
 
duragloss 105 is a great product , you will like the results,but, I would not be afraid of 845 it is a fine winter wax and very, very easy to use.
 
My WRX was a bit older, but its paint wasn't all that soft...more like "medium" IMO. I never treated either of my Subies any different from any of my other vehicles.



I'd go with Collinite because of the durability, unless you want to do multiple layers of Klasse Sealant Glaze.



Since most waxes aren't abrasive, the hard/soft, thick/thin, etc. clearcoat issues don't really apply. And even with thin/soft clear, the "burning through" shoudn't be anything you really have to worry about unless you're getting *awfully* aggressive on a regular basis.
 
z28dreams said:
..I'm told Collinite 845 is a better wax for the winter because of durability, but apparently it's quite tricky to apply/remove..
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Nah, 845 is SOOOO user-friendly that when I gave my Volvo to my niece-in-law (zero experience/interest in detailing) I told her to use that on it. She's very happy with it..."it's so easy to use!".



Just don't put it on really thick and it's a piece of cake.
 
Accumulator said:
Nah, 845 is SOOOO user-friendly that when I gave my Volvo to my niece-in-law (zero experience/interest in detailing) I told her to use that on it. She's very happy with it..."it's so easy to use!".



Just don't put it on really thick and it's a piece of cake.
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+1, 845 is one of the absolute easiest products to use out there......
 
thanks for all the responses.



the other day i was bored and threw some mothers carnauba cleaner wax on the buffer with a wool pad and gave it a quick clean.



came out way better than i expected, took out some swirling and a slight "haze".
 
silvercookie said:
thanks for all the responses.



the other day i was bored and threw some mothers carnauba cleaner wax on the buffer with a wool pad and gave it a quick clean.



came out way better than i expected, took out some swirling and a slight "haze".
Click to expand...



I wouldn't use a wool pad with something light cut like a cleaner wax. Wool should be saved for heavier defect removal and a compound like SIP, because it really chomps through the clear.



If you just want to 1 step it and make it look 'okay', use something like optimum poli-seal and a green/white pad.
 
silvercookie said:
thanks for all the responses.



the other day i was bored and threw some mothers carnauba cleaner wax on the buffer with a wool pad and gave it a quick clean.



came out way better than i expected, took out some swirling and a slight "haze".
Click to expand...



Just apply 1 or 2 coats of the sealant and you'll be done.
 
WaxManRonnie said:
Just apply 1 or 2 coats of the sealant and you'll be done.
Click to expand...



Dunno how well a sealant is gonna bond to a cleaner-wax :think: I'd top it with Collinite instead.



efnfast said:
I wouldn't use a wool pad with something light cut like a cleaner wax. Wool should be saved for heavier defect removal and a compound like SIP, because it really chomps through the clear.
Click to expand...



..and it leaves micromarring too. Yeah, even "finishing wool" won't leave as nice a finish as foam (just ask SuperBee364, who really likes those no-cut wool pads).



I know people in my Jag club who do all sorts of [questionable] things with wool pads; they usually think it looks OK until they see how much better it can look when done with the proper approach.
 
Accumulator said:
..and it leaves micromarring too. Yeah, even "finishing wool" won't leave as nice a finish as foam (just ask SuperBee364, who really likes those no-cut wool pads).

.
Click to expand...



*cough* PFW *cough* :D (atleast my flex+sip+pfw always finishes out LSP ready)
 
Simply use a quality sealant (like an Opti-Seal, 4Star, etc.) and add Collonite (take your pick, really 845, 476, etc.). I just used Opti-Seal and added a layer of Collonite 845. Very easy to use both and supposedly, an extremely durable combination. Should be good for the winter.



Certainly don't be afraid of Collonite 845. Extremely easy to us. Especially if you shake the bottle really well (I should shaken it more to get into more of a liquid state).



See ya. :wavey
 
efnfast said:
*cough* PFW *cough* :D (atleast my flex+sip+pfw always finishes out LSP ready)
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Nah, PFW doesn't finish out *NEARLY* ready-to-wax for me, not even close :nixweiss



WaxManRonnie said:
Thats what I meant. I'm always saying sealant when I mean 845.
Click to expand...



OK, roger that, it's a pretty fine line between most of Collinite's offerings and "sealants" all right.
 
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