Need desperate help

TheBeast

New member
Hi guys I need you help i tried using pc wiht properauto care lambs wool with meguiars DACP then followed by meguirs smr 2.0 on white pad on the black trunk of my mercedes i thought i eliminated all the swirls marks cuz that day it was cloudy so i can't see the swirls the next day i found out that i produced alot of swirl marks becuase of the wool pad.I made a big mistake i put alot of DACP and then not buffing them out until they disappear.Can i still remove the swirls produce by wool pad?i just want to use the yellow foam pad with the right buffing method.I need your advice guys.TIA
 
:) Don't worry, recovery is around the corner. I think you should go back and work DACP with the yellow pad for a little longer, then if necessary follow up with a slightly milder product like SMR with the white pad. Again, the trick it to make sure you work the product long enough. There are lots of good old threads on how to know when you're done- search on DACP or SMR or buffer and you'll get more than enough info.



Regards,

Robert



PS- my stress came from having talked up how good my buddy's car would look after a PC treatment. We went after it but not for long enough and when we stopped for inspection it looked like poop! Yikes, I was stressed!
 
I almost faint when I saw all the swirls,ONe more question I dont have indoor garage and it's already 50 deg outside can i still use the DACP and SMR 2.0
 
first of all don't use machines on a mercedes...the sikkens clearcoats are the hardest clearcoats and that is why they scratch so easily...I have many detailing customers who have black mercedes and bmw's and i would never use a machine on them. Back and forth motions will slowly remove swirl marks and

cleaning in the same manor will prevent future ones...as i've said to many people " cars are not painted in cirlces so don't clean them that way either" "go with the grain like woodwork" even if you pick up the smallest dirt into your cloth or pad it won't be noticable going back and forth. just think what happens when you go in circles, oh yea you already did. For mercedes I recommend using flannel even though it dusts(small price) or fleece which you can use the inside of a sweatshirt. If the swirls or scratches are too deep then you can try a little more agressive cotton cloth the first time, then switch to micr-cloths or the above mentioned flannel or fleece..hope this helps:D
 
Poorboy said:
first of all don't use machines on a mercedes...the sikkens clearcoats are the hardest clearcoats and that is why they scratch so easily...



I think AlBoston might take issue with that statement. Sure, sikkens may use a formula that results in a very hard clearcoat, but that doesn't mean you can't machine buff or polish them.
 
i've seen more with swirl and burn marks from machines than i have good ones...of course there are a few of us out there who can use a machine just like a hand, but the majority of people are NOT professionals, and are only weekend warriors and end up with the marks...always safer by hand if you have the energy. If you check out my web site you'll see a black 320E convertable

it was done by the owner (68 yrs young) not me. ron you make the choice!
 
First of all, the machine alone will NOT scratch and swirl the car. The pad and product combo is the biggest factor. With the right combo of Pad, Product, Machine speed and user you can polish ANY clearcoat finish.



Oh, BTW, I have used a random orbital and DeWalt rotary buffer on a Benz before and never left a single mark. It can be done.



I got a feeling Ali is going to brake out some pics of the ML. ;)
 
Poorboy said:
i've seen more with swirl and burn marks from machines than i have good ones...of course there are a few of us out there who can use a machine just like a hand, but the majority of people are NOT professionals, and are only weekend warriors and end up with the marks...always safer by hand if you have the energy. If you check out my web site you'll see a black 320E convertable

it was done by the owner (68 yrs young) not me. ron you make the choice!



Well we are talking about a PC, not a rotary. I think we would all agree that using a rotary takes skill and practice.



The photo of the Mercedes on your website looks nice. But, it's not very close up. My Volvo looks pretty darn good in a photo that isn't a close up. You only see the swirls in photos where I am trying to photograph them. Check my website, if you want to see what I mean.
 
Taxlady I reviewed you web and you did a very nice job. I remember you started out by hand. Did you ever make the move to a PC? I know it is hard to justify the cost with only one or two cars but then you are an Autopian.
 
the sikkens clearcoats are the hardest clearcoats and that is why they scratch so easily



Oh by the way, the "harder" (no clear is really harder than the other, it's just a different structure of the resin system) the LESS likely it is to scratch/marr. "Harder" clearcoats DO NOT equal more scratching and marring.
 
Taxlady you are right that pictures do not show everything because they are two dimensional and only if the marks were really bad an facing the sun would you probably see them in a picture.

the owner like i said is a car fanatic, usually stands over my shoulder for hours watching me work and asking questions.

reason his car is there is because he did the work this time and he hated the way it used to look under artificial lighting in his garage..no complaints now and they just bought a new dark blue jag and can't wait to use it on it too, that's car # 11 in his stable. The pc is only as good as the person using it. It is a professional tool, but like i tell a lot of people " we made cars look pretty good before pc's and micro-cloths" they just make the work a bit easier.
 
rightlane said:
Taxlady I reviewed you web and you did a very nice job. I remember you started out by hand. Did you ever make the move to a PC? I know it is hard to justify the cost with only one or two cars but then you are an Autopian.



Thanks. Yup, still doing the work by hand. A PC is definitely going to be acquired at some point. Hubby agrees that since it can also be used as an orbital sander, it sounds like a good investment.
 
I have little to add... I think Showroomlincoln and Taxlady covered it already! :xyxthumbs



Just curious ronald_m, why did you choose to use both DACP and wool pad? Wool pad is very aggressive (for a PC that is), DACP starts off aggressive.... was the damage really that bad?
 
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