need "a bit more" protection

L

loodi

New member
there is this black bmw 3series 2010 that is parked outside cause the owner has no garage and is too lazy to buy a cover for it. i have to polish it. a few scratches and swirls, nothing that requires special attention. the car is...well, new.



the problem is that its parked in front of his house. under 2 huge pine trees. 15m from the sea.

the car gets washed every week and everytime after stronger winds cause it gets covered in salt. (told him that this has to be changed cause its not gonna last long... he seems to care but its just too lazy)



i planned to use the classic 3steps that use for such "normal" damage on the clearcoat: medium, fine, ultrafine 3m. after that, i thought about a final glaze (also 3m) and carnauba over synthetic wax.

now the question:

would it be better to cover the car with the marine teflon 3m glaze that i have in the garage instead of the 3m automotive final glaze (red cap)?



(could be a dumb question but im seriously worried about that car. once a week its almost white cause of the amount of salt on it. not to mention the tree sap)

will that marine teflon glaze help more or its pointless?

in that case, what would you suggest?
 
Teflon is not a viable detailing ingredient, it won't do anything to improve protection or slickness.



I've found that Optimum Opti-Seal offers great bird bomb protection so it should hold up to salt as well. However, unless the owner takes steps to protect the paint from the salt spray, I don't know that anything is going to work long term without very regular re-application.
 
opti seal is silicone based?

he said he will do something about it but right now he needs just to have it polished and protected as best as possible without having to spend a fortune for some expensive waxes. (there goes my chance for getting a swissvax)... :/
 
Wonder if this would be a good application for OptiCoat :think:



Otherwise, I'd probably use FK1000P. I sure wouldn't be doing multiple-LSP stuff like a synthetic, a glaze, and then another wax.
 
forget about the previous question about the optiseal. did some research. polymer synth spray, not at all what i first had in mind.



well im kinda limited in getting various products. i can use 3m, wurth, sonax, some of the meguiars stuff and then the funny "all in one" stuff like arexons and similiar.

thats why i thought about the teflon 3m for marine use.

i can get some opti seal but i will have to delay the polishing for at least 2 weeks then. and of course, ill be overbooked while now im polishing my GFs car cause of boredom.



why isnt the teflon good for it instead of a machine pass with 3m final glaze? shouldnt it protect better being a marine glaze, ment for salt water and crap like that? (not being a jerk here, i just really dont know why teflon is no good for detailing)
 
Although my experience is limited by comparison, I would agree with Accumulator. Even though our vehicles are garaged, my wife's Forester (our DD) is parked outside in a lot during the day about 4 times a week for about 8-9 hours. My Challenger is subjected to this maybe 1-2 times a week. Lately, my Challenger has been collecting some sort of fallout/contaminants that stick to it (mostly on the passenger side) from something around the lot but the Forester has very little by copmparison (except on the windows). Both are parked in the same end spot every time. The Subaru has FK1000P applied to it while my Challenger had Wolfgang Fuzion (I recently applied the sample of Wolfgang DGPS I had after my last "claying" a couple of weekends ago).



It's nothing conclusive, but seeing how easily FK1000P sheds contaminants during normal washes over the past few months, I can't help but think it has contributed in some way (given both cars are subjected to the same environments). If I were in a similar situation, that's a product I would at least consider (2 coats, leaving at least a couple of days between each).



I do think Opti-Coat would also be a good candidate but my only concern would be about the extent of the owner's laziness. While Optimum claims OC is tougher than your average clear coat, it is not impervious to blemishes caused by poor maintenance practices. If the car is going to need to be re-polished again in ~6 months, I may not even consider this product. I guess it would also depend on the color of the car and the owner's tolerance for such imperfections. However, if OC were correctable and layerable, it would be a different story in my mind. In fact, that's one of my "concerns" that has kept me from using my supply of OC as an LSP so far. ....although I do plan to apply it to the hood of the wife's car in the near future to test out my comfort level and the performance of the product.
 
loodi said:
.. i just really dont know why teflon is no good for detailing..
Click to expand...



Short answer: Teflon doesn't work the way people often think it does; you can't just mix it in with stuff and have it do its nonstick magic. You have to do all sorts of special procedures (baking it on at high temps, etc.) to make Teflon do its thing and Dupont is on record saying that it doesn't work for stuff like car wax.
 
I think Teflon's only generally good for the motorcycle crowd. I hear if they get the interior of their exhaust coated in it, ( heat coming into play there) it can prevent bluing and discoloring.
 
If money isn't an issue and you want something that will last you a very long time look into Opti Coat 2.0 (or have a pro detailer apply Opti Guard), CQuartz, AQuartz, GTechniq C1M (detailer only) or C2.
 
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