My weekend with the WG twins

pt91

pt91

New member
Actually it was my weekend with the menzerna twins and the WG twins.



I had already used IP/FP on this car before. This time I had better lighting. I wet sanded a few hairlines that I was having trouble removing with a yellow pad and IP. It was my first attempt at wet sanding so I was a bit nervous. It worked out great with 2000 grit.



Next step - shake the heck out of the WG prepolish. I applied it in my garage as the instructions state....one section then wipe.

OK, apply 1/2 hood, grab MF towel, wipe, wipe, wipe, curse, curse

:mad: I had a real hard time with this product. It left smudges that only hard work and WG QD would take off. I finished up, all the time thinking about some of the negative posts on WG I had read recently. My guess is the prepolish may be the issue with hazing.



Next step - grab WG sealant, apply with foam app to entire car, rest for a moment and wipe. Hey it came off just like it should. It removed much easier than the Z5/ZFX I had been using:xyxthumbs



I have to say that the look is a bit deeper than with the Z stuff. Not quite as glassy either.



The plan is to apply another coat tmrw night, then top it with Souveran on Tuesay night.



The pics aren't going to win any award, but here they are.
 

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ZaneO,

I put it on as thin as I could while still seeing some product going down.

I have always wondered if the hot halogen lights could cure or just plain heat products. I try to keep the light back a bit, but I really like to have lots of light at the right angle for polishing and applying.

Maybe I baked it on? I couldn't tell any improvement after using the WG prepolish/prewax stuff. The WG QD is nice but I bought for touch up not removing other product.
 
Should the PreWax be worked into the paint for a certain amount of time before removing? Wolfgang's instructions seems like it's just "wipe on, wipe off", but since it's a polish I'd think that working it for a little while (therefore being able to spread it as thin as you'd like) would be best.



Also, does it make it any easier or more difficult to remove if you let the PreWax haze and sit for a little before buffing off, or is taking it off right away best?



By the way, sweet lookin' car PT.
 
Nice car! Paint looks really wet too. :up



If you have a PC, try applying the pre cleaner using a finishing pad and a speed of 5, a panel at a time and wipe off immediately. Works amazingly well.
 
I only have white, orange and yellow pads, but next time I will try a finishing pad for the prewax.

What is the function of the prewax? I assumed it was to created a layer for adhesion with the WG sealant. The car had already been polished. If I had skipped the prewax, would there be any difference in durability or appearance?

Now that the sealant is on, when (if ever) should I use the prewax again?

Tks for the compliments.

I will try some better pics in a couple of days.
 
Very nice. I just picked up a bottle of Wolfgang sealant. I am really looking forward to using it this weekend. I plan on applying AIO then the WG on my silver 4Runner.



Pics to follow :D
 
Last week I detailed my Jet Black M3 using the Wolfgang twins. I used DACP where needed, #9 on the entire car, then Wolfgang polish and sealant. I did not have any particular trouble removing the prepolish. Also I felt I did not have any hazing issues. Two days later I applied another coat of the Wolfgang sealant, and again found it easy to remove and felt there was no hazing. The next day I am getting ready to apply a coat of P21S, and I notice there is a fine hazing over the paint. I washed the car, applied the P21S, the hazing is gone, and this car looks as good as it ever has. Is it better in appearance than P21S alone? I just can't tell. I do know that it looks very good as does your car. And I am, for the moment, very satisfied.
 
What applicator are you using to apply the pre-wax?



I recommend a foam applicator over the microfiber applicator.
 
I was planning on using a terry applicator pad to apply the PreWax by hand to give it a little extra "bite". I guess working it into the paint for a little while and buffing off right away would be the best way?
 
I used the WG twins this weekend for the first time. Fairly new Civic, white. Clayed first, then the pre-polish, then sealant.



The pre-polish stayed smudgy for a while, so I applied to the whole car to give it time to set up. Came off pretty well, but found that using a cotton towel to do first removal, then following with a fresh microfiber, really helped.



Should I take it off while it's wet?
 
Sherri Zann said:




The pre-polish stayed smudgy for a while, so I applied to the whole car to give it time to set up. Came off pretty well, but found that using a cotton towel to do first removal, then following with a fresh microfiber, really helped.



Should I take it off while it's wet?
Click to expand...



By hand, I have been using a foam hand pad and working the pre-cleaner into the paint, a panel at a time and immediately removing the excess. No smearing, no hazing, just wipes off. I don't think after you really work it in it is really 'wet' though.
 
OC S2K said:
I prefer the coupe as well. Ideally I would want a 94. I just thought it was a 95 by the wheels. :)
Click to expand...



Yes, 94 is the best of the pre-97 cars. The kinks had been worked out without adding weight.

I have 97 wheels. I sometimes forget about that.
 
Sherri Zann,



I've had better luck with the pre-cleaner by allowing it to haze before removing. When I've tried to work it in with the PC and remove immediately, it smeared/smudged, and took some buffing to clear it up. Allow it to haze, though, and it comes off more cleanly (in my experience, anyway). I generally do two or three panels, then go back and wipe off residue, repeat.



Tort
 
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