My 2009 Ibis White Audi A4 - S-Line

RL-Audi

New member
Thought I would share some pictures and some lessons learned while using a DA for the first time. I have owned this car for over a year and have only hand polished and waxed prior to this 'detail'.



A lot of people don't like white paint because it doesn't really show depth, but I like it because its easy to keep clean, and IMO difficult to see paint defects. I knew going into it that I probably did not have the correct tools to really 'correct' all of the defects... although I did remove majority of the minor swirls. The ones that are left will just have to wait until I have more aggressive pads and something more powerful (like a flex ;-).



I wash my car every weekend, so it is in pretty decent shape (ONR, clean towels, etc, etc). There are some minor swirls, but nothing major (at least not that I can tell). I did make the mistake of forgetting to tell the dealership NOT to wash my car... It came back to me looking worse than when I dropped it off (swirls, streaks on the windows, etc).



The products used on Paint were:

ONR

Mothers Clay

M Ultimate Compound

M205

Meguiar's G110v2

Meguiar's Soft Buff Finishing Pad (w9207) x 3

Meguiar's Soft Buff Polishing Pad (w8207) x 3

PP White Diamond

PP Ex-P

PP Natty's Blue

PP Trim Restorer

PP Professional Polish

Lots of microfiber towels

IPA



Products used on wheels and tires:

Pinnacle Gel Wheel Cleaner

Daytona Brush

Meguiar's Endurance Tire Gell



Products used on the Interior

Optimum Protectant Plus

Meguiar's Quick Interior Detailer wipes

Scotch Guard



Other

0000 Steel Wool

A few terry cloths

A few pure cotton cloths



The cleaning and detailing process was:

1. Wheels cleaned

2. ONR wash and dry

3. Clayed the car. There wasn't much contamination, but considering the polishing I was planning on I clayed anyway.

4. A few test spot tests with various combinations. I decided to use Ultimate Compound instead of 105 because I couldn't tell the difference with the pads I have, and I have read that UC is less aggressive that 105.

5. UC Compound with polishing pads.

6. M205 with polishing pads.

7. M205 with finishing pads

8. IPA wipe down x 2

9. PP White Diamond via finishing pad

10. PP Ex - P x 2 layers with 24 hours curing time for each layer.

11. PP Natty's blue x 2 layers with 12 hours curing time for each layer.

12. Dressed all trim, grill, etc with PP trim restorer

13. Dressed tires twice with Megs Tire Gell, with 24 hours between layers

13. Engine was wiped down with ONR, and then dressed with PP trim restorer.

14. Vacuumed Interior and wiped down dust.

15. Applied Optimum Protectant Plus to leather. Brushed suede/alcantara..

16. Polished exhaust tips with PP Professional Polish using 0000 steel wool



A few things that I learned (first time DA user):

1. Priming my pads appropriately made a big difference. At first, I wasn't priming my pads very well, and I a) used A LOT of product b) had a lot of dusting c) wasn't really getting the results I wanted.

2. Once the pads are primed, only 3 pea sized drops of product was needed.

3. Cleaning pads on the fly helps. I cleaned the pads every panel and then re-primed when needed.

4. SwirlX's working time is much less than M205. I much prefer 205. Perhaps I was using swirlx incorrectly?? Either way I didn't use it because I preferred M205.

5. Smaller working areas with more pressure made a difference.

6. I need more pads... especially something more aggressive.

7. Taping the car was pretty tedious. I'm sure it added some value, but I'm not sure whether just cleaning any 'mishaps' would of been faster...



It was pretty difficult capturing good before/after pictures that showed the defects (camera/user/white paint issue ?). Also, the lighting is a little different on some of the pictures...



Before - Hood

0hoodbefore.jpg






After - Hood

0bhoodafter.jpg






Before - Back left panel

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After - Back left panel

1bbackpanelafter.jpg






Before - Door Panel

2sidedoorbefore.jpg






After - Door Panel

2bsidedoorafter.jpg






Wheel - Before

3wheelbefore.jpg






Wheel After:

3bwheelafter.jpg






Taping the car...

4carpartiallytaped.jpg






Engine Before -

5enginebefore.jpg






Engine After - (ONR wipe down and dressed with PP Trim Restorer)

5bengineafter.jpg




Under Hood Before:

6underhoodbefore.jpg




Under Hood After:

6bunderhoodafter.jpg






Grill Before:

7grillbefore.jpg






Grill After (PP Trim Restorer)

7bgrillafter.jpg






Exhaust Tips Before:

8exhausttipsbefore1.jpg


8bexhausttipsbefore2.jpg




Exhaust Tips After (0000 Wool with PP Pro Polish, sealed with Ex-P)

8cexhausttipsafter1.jpg


8dexhausttipsafter2.jpg






Interior - Sorry, no before pictures although it looked about the same...

9interior.jpg






Back end before:

10backendbefore.jpg






Back end after:

10bbackendafter.jpg






Front before:

11frontofcarbefore.jpg






Front After:

11bfrontofcarafter.jpg






Side Before:

12sidecarbefore.jpg






Side After:

12bsidecarafter.jpg






And some other random after shots:

13after1.jpg


13after2.jpg


13after3.jpg


13after4.jpg


13after5.jpg


13after6.jpg


13after7.jpg






This first 'detail' of mine would not of been possible without the massive information here at Autopia. My next project is to actually remove all the defects... need to get my hands on a flex with some aggressive pads..
 
Looks great.



Sorry for the newb question but here goes. When you did the tail pipes you first used the 0000 steel wool and then used a polish and then sealed it? The polish you used was a metal specific polish and then sealed it with a metal specific seal or was an autobody wax?



Sorry, I see a lot of people talking about the tail pipe process but I can't make heads or tails of the polish and sealant. Is this the same process you use for wheels too?



Once again, fantastic job.



Thanks,



Tim
 
Thanks :). For the exhaust tips, I first wiped them down with an microfiber rag to get most of the dirt off. I then added polish to the steel wool and gently polished the tips. In this case, I used Poorboy pro polish, but I have used OTC chrome/metal polish before with the same result. After the polish step, I just wiped it clean and sealed it.



The only pure sealant I have is Poorboys ex-p. I'm not sure if there are specific metal sealants that are better...
 
That's an awesome car; are those alcantara seats? Very nice! I really like the led's around the headlights, but it's too bad that once it catches on you'll see copycats in every automakers lineup starting with the low ends like the chevy cobalt, scions ect.
 
shaunls1 said:
great looking car! good job

:thx





Smoothfinish said:
That's an awesome car; are those alcantara seats? Very nice! I really like the led's around the headlights, but it's too bad that once it catches on you'll see copycats in every automakers lineup starting with the low ends like the chevy cobalt, scions ect.

Appreciate it.. Yeah I wasn't sure about the alcantara when I bought the car as I didn't know how they would hold up. So far nothing to complain about...



I really like the lights as well.. hopefully the copycats stay away for the next couple years :nervous:
 
nice work. got that white looking real white and defect free. Looks really good man. Seeing you guys do these newer audi's is making me really want to get one.
 
Nice detail man! love your audi, megs products did the trick, just for interior improving buy the Audi TT pedals it will look much better!
 
Good job. Great car.



I don't think you need the flex to achieve more correction. Buy smaller pads 5.5" and try the surbuff pads with m105. 6.5" pads do not spin for me on a pc7336 and from what i understand that is where the corrective action happens.

I was able to remove some alarming scratches from my paint with the surbuffs.
 
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