How do you guys multi-step polish so fast with the PC. I always read on here of people both hobbyist and professional detailers that do a 2,3, 4 step polishing job of a vehicle they are detailing and i don't understand how you guys get it done especially with bigger vehicles like SUVs. I could spend 8 hrs detailing a car, half of which is on the exterior and might be for a 1 step polish, wax job. If the correct way to use the PC is to use very slow arm speed like 1 inch per second, how do you guys get a multi-step polish done in one day? Is there some tricks, tips that you guys have to speed the process up? Do you multi-step polish panel by panel or do you go around the vehicle with each step? Any tips would be much appreciated, because it would take me all day to do a 2 or 3 step polish. thanks for the help.
Multi-Step Polishing with PC
- Thread starter SR77
- Start date
Setec Astronomy
Well-known member
One trick I learned from Rod Kraft is to go around the car and space out lines/dabs of polish at strategic points. Then you can go around and polish the whole thing without stopping, putting the machine down, picking up the polish bottle, squirting, putting the bottle down, picking the machine back up...
Look, polishing properly takes a long long time. If you go around the car in 1 hour, your aren't removing many/much defects, if you take 2 hours...you're probably remiving about twice as much paint...pretty simple...Though good technique and proper pad/product selection can make a little difference. If you have heavy defect, it will take a long time to remove. By laying doing the polish before hand, you can save a few minutes (but it can actually take longer if you put too much polish down...till you get it down pat), but it isn't going to make up the difference SR77 is talking about.
Accumulator
Well-known member
RAG said:
My thoughts exactly. It takes me a *long* time to polish a car, even when I use the rotary for the major correction. I've spent hours on a single panel doing it by PC/Cyclo. I've been doing this for a long, long time and other than using the right tool (rotary, Cyclo, 4" pads on the PC) and the right product (aggressive enough to do some cutting) I haven't found any shortcuts.
Well, *one* shortcut- I'll sometimes leave the compound residue from the rotary on the vehicle when I switch to the Cyclo, I figure I'm taking out micromarring/holograms anyhow. Seems to work OK.
I approach it this way: I don't worry about how fast other people do things; I just take the time it takes for *me* to get the results that I'm after.
JasonD
New member
I just spent 45 minutes on a motorcycle tank yesterday using a PC w/ 4" pads. Good things come to those who wait!
imported_Cycopath
New member
speed and quality are 2 different things. just pick whichever you are after
Thanks for the replys. Speed and Quality are 2 different things, but I am trying to accomplish both if possible. i was just wondering how some people on here especially some of the professionals that do this for money can do a multi-step polish on a black SUV in the amount of time they post. Wondering if they could share any secrets or tips on how they accomplish this everyday. i have done a few side jobs for family and friends, but it seems to always take longer then expected and if i was doing this for money as a full time thing i would be losing struggling!!! thanks again
imported_Cycopath
New member
i dont think they are doin a true 3 step process. i can go around a H2 in about 10 minutes, and do that with 3 products. it was a 3 step process, but not the same i would do on my personal car
Envious Eric
New member
what about mixing products...does that count as a two step....if so, then there is a shortcut right there....like 106ff/rmg, PG/rmg....pg used to remove the defects, then the rmg glaze to fill in/remove any hazing....the pg has the ability to turn into a polish once the abrasives break down....does that count????
imported_Picus
New member
How fast are we talking here? My "Multistep Compounding" is 2-3 *full* polishing steps and takes ~6-7 hours. Thats full polishing steps (ie: Menzerna PG on an orange, Menzerna IP on a white, FPII on a grey, entire car) along with the wash/clay and sealant/wax + incidentals like trim dressing, tires clean and dress, chrome polish. If I was doing a half-*ssed job I wouldn't have clients; overtime you just get into a routine and assuming you're left alone and able to "do your thing" you just go to it. I've pretty much got my times set (for the most part), so I know how long each of my processes will take me.
If you guys want me to list my exact process I'll be happy to. Maybe next time I do a full detail I'll steal a camcorder and video it.
If you guys want me to list my exact process I'll be happy to. Maybe next time I do a full detail I'll steal a camcorder and video it.
imported_Picus
New member
Alright so here is how I go about a multi-step compounding. This is assuming there are no huge issues (one panel has been repainted and needs a lot of extra work, chip repairs, etc..). This also assumes I am not doing the interior.
1) Soak the front of the car in PB's bug remover and/or apc diluted 3:1 5min
2) Wash the wheels. In most cases soap and water takes care of this, if it doesn't I will try Eagle One's non-acid cleaner, if that doesn't do it Megs Wheel Brightener 3:1 10-20 min
3) Pre-soak with foam gun (or without) 10 min
4) Wash the car. Most take about 30-40 min, some a bit longer, some a bit quicker. Regular routine, two buckets, sheepskin mitts, rinse a lot, top to bottom.
5) Dry. Now on this part I don't dry all the way. I dry most of the way but since I usually clay I don't worry about a little dampness. 10 min
6) Clay. Time depends on the condition, assuming "moderate condition" 15-30 minutes.
7) Tape any trim/badges I think will be troublesome. 5 min
8) Start compounding. Let's do two steps and a glaze. This is how I deal with moderate cars. So this step would be Menzerna IP, Megs 80, Opt Compound on an orange. I go panel by panel over the entire car with the first step. I may not work entirely in one panel, I work with the car - so if I'm on say a front fender and I move a bit on to the front door, so be it. I also don't worry about wiping *all* the residue away, just enough of it that it won't impact the next polishing step. On my car (G35) which is medium sized, this takes about 90-120 minutes, sometimes a bit more. This will be the longest step by far, as it's removing the most imerfections.
9) This step will depend on how well the last step worked. For the most part at this point it's finishing, so I'll use FPII, OP, SFX3, etc... on a white or grey pad. 60-90min
10) ISA:water rubdown, the entire car, including windows, any dust bits, any polish residue in seams. 30 min
11) Apply glaze if Im doing it 15-30 min (RMG)
12) Sealant/wax. Liquids go on with the PC, 10 min. Pastes by hand, 20 min.
13) While the wax/sealant is hazing, dress trim, clean doorjambs, dress wheel wells, seal wheels, dress tires, clean windows, misc bits. 30-45 min
14) Remove sealant/wax, use a qd to get any more dust. If the customer requests it I'll put a wax over a sealant at this point.
That's ~450 min or 7.5 hours assuming I use all the longer estimates for time. Usually it's more in the middle, which is right about 6 hours. I'm not sure what I do that maybe you guys aren't that makes it a little quicker. I think preperation and just doing it over and over probably has a lot to do with it. I bring an electrical cord and hose/nozzle to all my jobs, I have a tote with all my stuff organized in it so I can just grab and go. I bring many pads so when one gets gummed up I toss it in a bag and grab another. I have a little belt clip that I keep my 8oz polish bottles on (I put all polishes in 8oz bottles for easier transport). I'll sometimes use my leaf blower to dry and/or blow dust off the car if it gets covered by polish dust. Obviously the most time spent is polishing, and there is nothing you can do to speed that up (you're kept in check by how fast the machine will work), so trying to mitigate time spent doing other stuff is what helps. One other thing - I am not sure how it works for you guys, but I get dirty when I detail. If I'm worried about staying clean that impacts how quickly I work.
Things like:
- Spending time cleaning pads
- searching for products/equipment, or changing products a lot.
- washing after clay
- doing one panel at a time with each step
- obsessing over polish residue between each step
I hope this makes sense and helps.
1) Soak the front of the car in PB's bug remover and/or apc diluted 3:1 5min
2) Wash the wheels. In most cases soap and water takes care of this, if it doesn't I will try Eagle One's non-acid cleaner, if that doesn't do it Megs Wheel Brightener 3:1 10-20 min
3) Pre-soak with foam gun (or without) 10 min
4) Wash the car. Most take about 30-40 min, some a bit longer, some a bit quicker. Regular routine, two buckets, sheepskin mitts, rinse a lot, top to bottom.
5) Dry. Now on this part I don't dry all the way. I dry most of the way but since I usually clay I don't worry about a little dampness. 10 min
6) Clay. Time depends on the condition, assuming "moderate condition" 15-30 minutes.
7) Tape any trim/badges I think will be troublesome. 5 min
8) Start compounding. Let's do two steps and a glaze. This is how I deal with moderate cars. So this step would be Menzerna IP, Megs 80, Opt Compound on an orange. I go panel by panel over the entire car with the first step. I may not work entirely in one panel, I work with the car - so if I'm on say a front fender and I move a bit on to the front door, so be it. I also don't worry about wiping *all* the residue away, just enough of it that it won't impact the next polishing step. On my car (G35) which is medium sized, this takes about 90-120 minutes, sometimes a bit more. This will be the longest step by far, as it's removing the most imerfections.
9) This step will depend on how well the last step worked. For the most part at this point it's finishing, so I'll use FPII, OP, SFX3, etc... on a white or grey pad. 60-90min
10) ISA:water rubdown, the entire car, including windows, any dust bits, any polish residue in seams. 30 min
11) Apply glaze if Im doing it 15-30 min (RMG)
12) Sealant/wax. Liquids go on with the PC, 10 min. Pastes by hand, 20 min.
13) While the wax/sealant is hazing, dress trim, clean doorjambs, dress wheel wells, seal wheels, dress tires, clean windows, misc bits. 30-45 min
14) Remove sealant/wax, use a qd to get any more dust. If the customer requests it I'll put a wax over a sealant at this point.
That's ~450 min or 7.5 hours assuming I use all the longer estimates for time. Usually it's more in the middle, which is right about 6 hours. I'm not sure what I do that maybe you guys aren't that makes it a little quicker. I think preperation and just doing it over and over probably has a lot to do with it. I bring an electrical cord and hose/nozzle to all my jobs, I have a tote with all my stuff organized in it so I can just grab and go. I bring many pads so when one gets gummed up I toss it in a bag and grab another. I have a little belt clip that I keep my 8oz polish bottles on (I put all polishes in 8oz bottles for easier transport). I'll sometimes use my leaf blower to dry and/or blow dust off the car if it gets covered by polish dust. Obviously the most time spent is polishing, and there is nothing you can do to speed that up (you're kept in check by how fast the machine will work), so trying to mitigate time spent doing other stuff is what helps. One other thing - I am not sure how it works for you guys, but I get dirty when I detail. If I'm worried about staying clean that impacts how quickly I work.
Things like:
- Spending time cleaning pads
- searching for products/equipment, or changing products a lot.
- washing after clay
- doing one panel at a time with each step
- obsessing over polish residue between each step
I hope this makes sense and helps.
LucasZCPM3
New member
JDookie said:
Sorry to hijack, but what counter weight do you use with 4" pads? Is the one that comes with the 7424 ok? Thanks
Accumulator
Well-known member
lucaszcpm3 said:
The bigger one, made for the 6" backing plate. Works great.
thanks for the replys
Picus, thanks for the break down. If it takes you 6-7 hrs on the exterior, how do you get the interior done too?
I am not too worried about time when I do my own cars, but after doing a few side jobs, I don't understand how everyone fits everything in. I know polishing takes up the most time and thats why I was asking how people can do a multi-step polish session with the PC, along with having the time to also do the interior, engine detailing, etc... I don't consider myself a slacker, so that why I was wondering how you all fit everything in and was wondering if there are any tips to speeding up the part that takes the most time, Polishing. thanks again for all the help.
Picus, thanks for the break down. If it takes you 6-7 hrs on the exterior, how do you get the interior done too?
I am not too worried about time when I do my own cars, but after doing a few side jobs, I don't understand how everyone fits everything in. I know polishing takes up the most time and thats why I was asking how people can do a multi-step polish session with the PC, along with having the time to also do the interior, engine detailing, etc... I don't consider myself a slacker, so that why I was wondering how you all fit everything in and was wondering if there are any tips to speeding up the part that takes the most time, Polishing. thanks again for all the help.
imported_Picus
New member
If I'm doing the interior I usually do the mats and carpets first then let them dry while I am doing the rest of the car. During sealant/wax haze I clean the door jambs, scuff plates, etc, then dress it. The mats and carpets are always the most work, i add an hour for moderate interiors.
On cars that require three steps I've started using the rotary to shorten the amount of time the car takes overall.
On cars that require three steps I've started using the rotary to shorten the amount of time the car takes overall.
Thanks for posting this Picus, I recently did my first ever full exterior detail. I think it took at least 12 hours, and I only did one polishing step (opt with orange pad) followed by AIO and UPP.
It was my first time using the PC and several products, I'm confident I could cut down the time signficantly with practice.
But ... how do you clay in 15-30 mins? Maybe I was just too careful or doing too many passes :nixweiss
I think it would be great if there was a video from start to finish, would probably pick up lots of tips to save time
It was my first time using the PC and several products, I'm confident I could cut down the time signficantly with practice.
But ... how do you clay in 15-30 mins? Maybe I was just too careful or doing too many passes :nixweiss
I think it would be great if there was a video from start to finish, would probably pick up lots of tips to save time
Picus said:
Exactly. The rotary is a huge time saver for defect removal. When we are talking about compounding and heavy polishing, the rotary works about 4x as fast...which doesn't exactly mean this step will take 1/4 the time...but probalby 1/2 time.
Other time savers?...I continously try to improve my skills and continue to experiment with products to ensure I am using the most effective products at my disposal, regardless of the cost. For me, the Menzerna polishing really make a huge difference via rotary - their superiority over other polishes more than makes for the time taken to clean up the dust. With Menzerna, I can basically cut out an entire step and achieve the same amount of defect removal. PG has the ability to cut heavily, yet finish down amazingly well...saving me huge amounts of time on multi-step jobs. FPII is nothing short of amazing, and dusts very very little - via rotary, I get about the same amount of defect removal as OC, SSR2, etc., yet it finishes down far better (halogram free).
I don't find I'm able to do interiors the way I like them done in 1 hour. Sadly, I usually spend 2 - 2.5 hours...but I charge $100 - $150. I wish I could do interiors faster, but to really scrub leather seats and vinyl to the pore, it takes time.
My process is nearly identical to that of PICUS. I even pressure spray and then shampoo the matts first so they'll dry (but I do the carpets last so I don't mess up the v-pattern from shampooing, and drying isn't an issue in our climate).