Motorcycle Detailing

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I just picked up a new (to me) 1999 Honda VFR and while it's in pretty good shape, it does have tons of swirls and small scratches from the previous owner. That an about 1/2 a can of simonize wax residue in all the nooks and crannies (and on a motorcycle there a lots of those). When I went to look at the bike the first time, the owner had the cover half off and was applying wax in an effort to "clean it up".



So I have a few questions:



1. Cleaning - Not too dirty, the wheels are the worst off, but still not bad. I was going to to the wheels with EO A to Z, the body work with GC. What should I use on the engine/frame/swingarm?



2. Paint Prep - The tank is steel, painted and clearcoated, sounds to me like any other car panel....got the procedures for that down pat. What about the bodywork? It's plastic (ABS), painted and most likely not clearcoated. Should I treat it like regular paint?



Bodywork seems smooth should I bother with claying?



I was planning to remove most of the fairings hit everything with some DACP by hand. Will probably take a few applications to get it to an acceptable level.



3. Protection - What would you protect it with? I have S100, Einzett Glanz, Klasse Twins, and some other cleaner waxes (mother's, meguiars, etc). I was thinking about going with the Twins.



4. Plastics - Lots of swirls on the plastic windscreen guages, etc. Will probably try novus system as I can get it locally at the harley shop. Any other suggestions?



Thanks,

Michael





Here are a few pics:



3249vfr_left_side.jpg




3249vfr_right_side.jpg
 
Nice bike! :xyxthumbs (I had a white '93 VFR about 7 years ago)



Today's ABS bodywork is usually clearcoated also. I guess once you hit it with DACP, you'll know.



A little tip on the cleaning. Clean and lube the chain first, otherwise the splatter is going to mess up the whole bike. I found out how far the splatter goes on the white VFR! :)



WD40 seems to be the best solvent for cleaning the chain AND the wheels. I know, I know...lots of people think it's a lube, but it's most a solvent. Spray liberally on the chain when the bike is on the center stand, use a soft toothbrush to loosen up any stubborn crud, and when everything is satisfactory, wipe down with a clean rag soaked with WD40. At this point, I'll actually wash the chain down to get rid of the excess solvent. Wipe chain dry, then go for a short ride to warm it up. Then lube with a chain wax, or a non-flinging lube like PJ1. If you are using chain wax, you have to let it set up for an hour or two, or it'll fling. That's why it's always best to lube the chain at the end of a ride instead of at the beginning.



Now you can go over the wheels with a WD40 soaked rag. Don't get any on the brakes, or you'll be in for some excitement! :eek:



I wouldn't use EO A2Z, as they seem to recommend using that cleaner on bike aluminum wheels. I think the WD40 is your best bet. I think they are powder coated black, so I would follow up with a sealant like Klasse or #20 afterwards, so that your next cleaning job is easier.



I haven't tried it myself, but Scottwax highly recommends S100 total cycle cleaner for the frame and all the metal parts. Up to this point, I had always used WD40 for the greasy parts, and carsoap for everything else. You're going to have to get a toothbrush into a lot of the small places.



I would not bother claying the bodywork myself, as a bike is different than a car, and you're going to be constantly touching the paint work to ride it, but YMMV.



I have never taken my PC to the bike, as I find it awkward for most places because of its size. One thing to remember though, is because of the flexibility of the bodywork, to prop it up so that when you are applying pressure (by PC or by hand), that it doesn't keep flexing away, or worse, crack.



I would use the Klasse twins topped with wax myself. Currently, on my two bikes, I have #7 topped with #26 on one, and AIO topped with Platinum UPP on the other (My track bike).



Anyway, enjoy racking up the miles on that sweet machine. Especially with that nice Corbin seat!
 
a lot of people these days recommend just using wd-40 as the chain lube as well. i use a spray-on lube, but i think i might just use wd-40 alone. waxes seems to attract and hold dirt a lot more.
 
With O-ring chain, lubes are not as important, I agree. However, if you live in a wetter climate like I do, the chain will rust, and the chain wax prevents that. It also makes the chain quieter, I find, and I like that. If you don't overdo it, chain wax isn't really that sticky after it sets up.
 
Did a test with DACP on the solo seat cowl (not in pics, won't fit with the corbin seat) and it's definitely not clear coated. Pink terry towel. Got all the swirls out, but now the scratches look worse. I'll probably be able to get rid of most of them and minimize those that are bad. Looks good so far though.



Working on these smaller, oddly shaped, flexible plastic pieces is so much more difficult than solid, steel panels that are mounted. It's tough to get any good pressure and not move, flex, flip, or crack the plastic. As 2wheels suggested, supporting each panel from the back works best.



As for chains, on my past bike, when it was time to lube (every 300 miles or so), I always cleaned with wd40 before a ride and then chain wax when I got home. I don't put on a ton of miles, but this method has seemed to work for me.



Thanks agian for all the advice. I think I'm going to try the twins topped with S100. I'll keep you posted with the results when I get the chance to do the work. Looks like riding is going to cut into my autopia time.......Sooooo nice out!!!



Michael
 
Just FYI for the next time you wash it...use S100 Cycle Cleaner. Spray it on, hose it off, dry and your bike is CLEAN! It is safe for use on all bike surfaces, including the seats.



Sounds like you have a good game plan to spruce it up.
 
Holy cow! What is it? Looks kind of familiar. Did you modify an old race bike? Not anything close to what we can get here in Canada. Nice Ohlins fork!
 
Hey, stop showing me up with pics of bikes better than mine (j/k)!!!!



Seriously, nice bikes. Aprilla makes some ridiculously hot bikes, but they were way out of my budget. When I knew I was in the market for a new bike I went to stop by the only area Aprilla dealer because I heard they give test rides. When I got there, it had apparantly closed up shop...after only a year or two. Guess sales weren't so good.



Michael
 
Try some SOWCO degreaser. It is non caustic and removes grease as well as any cleaner with less mess because it hoses right off. I do not remember the active ingredient but it works!



Also remember DO NOT wax or seal chrome.



Ryan
 
Got a chance to do a little more work on the plastic bodywork. This paint is SOFT!!!! I did a test with some DACP by hand which seemed to work well, but no matter which pad/towel, no matter how long I worked the product, or how lightly I went I was still getting a decent amount of self induced swirling (more like scratches in the direction I was rubbing). Then tried some #9 same thing.



The only thing that got it to a high gloss without marring the surface was einszett metalic polish by hand with a MF towel. The metallic polish is really mild and usually doesn't do much for swirls on a normal clearcoat, but on this single stage plastic, it's beautiful. There are still some of the original scratches that I'll just have to live with (afraid to remove too much paint), but overall it's looking great.



I'll get some pics when I complete the whole body and get the twins on.



Michael
 
Hey What's up. Here is how I detail a bike, maybe it can help. I am very busy so all my tips are time sensitive aswell which some people like and some don't.



I use a multipurpose cleaner on the wheel. I use Simple Green diluted at the high mixture to clean the wheels.

Spray it on let it sink in for a couple of minutes and use a white terry or a sponge to agitate it, and rinse. (awsome results).



Next I use Simple mixed at medium and spray all the plastics, frame and eveything elese(EXEPT THE GAUGES). the gauges can mark easy and you don't want to soak them anyways with all the wires and such. Concentrate on the high used areas like the front lights, front fairings, and where the oil builds up. If you have to use your high mix Simple on really dirty areas of the frame and stuff. Spary it on let it sit for a few minutes agitate it and rinse. Simple is great for bugs,tar, grime and oxidation (If used right). Simple Green is an awsome product for you and the vehicles you clean. Buy it almost any where and buy it in concentrate and read how to mix it on the back or on the net www.simplegreen.com If you use it right it won't leave spots or damage anything. I clean 30 cars a day and have never had ANY probems with it. The odd time it is not strong enough but thats the price for environmentally freindly. It just means you have to use a bit more elbow greese....LOL.



Next I soap her down, hand wash and rinse.



Dry it off.



Next I use G10 by Farclea(read the warnings) to clean the paint and to remove swirls and scratches. All done by hand. Sometimes I will use a SMR for the ones that don't come all the way out. By hand aswell.



Use some plastic polish on the lights and windscreens.



Coat of Wax



Send the bill.......................LOL.



Here is a bike I did last weekend. The tank was scratched like crazy from his belt and he removed a sticker and it was a real mess. But it came up pretty Good though.



Hope it helps



This usually take me around 45 minutes to do a bike.



Clint
 
Ryan said:
Yes it's true. Chrome will pitt if its sealed for a prolonged time.
Click to expand...



But that's the part I don't understand. Not trying to me a wise guy or anything -- if you seal something, it prevents oxygen and water interchange. And if I understand what you mean by pitting, it is corrosion. So if something is sealed, how can it "pit"?



I have never seen pitting on cared for chrome (ie., wax, sealed, etc.) but only on neglected chrome. Mind you, it's been a long time since I have chromed anything.
 
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