MF pads and single stage paint

R

Richard Grasa

New member
I've got a 1993 ASC Celica in the shop with badly oxidized red single stage paint. Has anyone used MF pads on single stage? I've got my guy knocking the oxidation off it now with foam pads because the dead paint won't allow a MF pad to clean up half a panel before it gets too gummed up. I did a test spot with MF on a spot after the oxidation was cleaned off and it still gummed up way too fast. I would like to use the MF when I compound this thing because the results are quite nice, but not if they gum up so fast. So my question is has anyone noticed that the MF pads gum up so much faster than the foam on SS, or would you say it's maybe just this car? Or are the MF pads just not a good match for SS?
 
ASC Celica??? Gotta see pics!!!



You gotta constantly keep cleaning or swapping them out with SS paint. Keep blowing them out after every pass and once they get too caked up change them. You'll easily go through 10-12 pads. If you don't have that many, wash them as ASAP and spin them out with your rotary so they can be 1/2 way dry.
 
Here's a couple teasers for you David. This car sat in storage for the past 10 years and just had a new top installed. Def needs some work, but a nice little car.



100_1104.jpg


100_1125.jpg




initial test spot using LC orange/D300.

100_1110.jpg
 
Why not just get all the dead paint off with foam and follow with your MF pads if that is your wish. I'd say it would save a lot of time. The 50/50 looks fantastic!
 
Thomas Dekany said:
Why not just get all the dead paint off with foam and follow with your MF pads if that is your wish. I'd say it would save a lot of time. The 50/50 looks fantastic!
Click to expand...



This is what I would like to do, but even after the dead paint is off, the MF's still get gummed up much quicker than foam. I was wondering if this is typical that the single stage, even with the dead paint removed gums the MF up so fast. The 50/50's I did with MF look even better than the one done with foam in the picture. Which is why I want to use the MF's but I don't have alot of them, but have tons of foam. Just trying to decide if I want to deal with the hassle of cleaning the MF every 5 minutes to get a little better result before the final polish.
 
Cut the oxidized off with a wool or foam pad.

Use the MF's to remove any swirls, like Tom says.

Don't waste time, the MF's will remove any swirls left by agressively removing the oxidation.

One other suggestion-about the time you "think" you have all the oxidized off, clean a spot with some IPA and water mix, dry, let set, and look again.

You may find that once any polishing lubricates are removed, there is still oxidation.

Grumpy
 
Why not use MF for your finishing step, or just a black foam instead. No way will MF finish nicer than black foam. What do you think?
 
Now that all (or most) of the oxidation is off, it's finishing down LSP ready using the LC orange/D300. The MF's are just gunking up way too fast, no way I'm going to attempt doing the whole car with them, I completely killed one after just one fender. I can get 3 times as far with the foam before having to clean it. This is not full correction, if it was I'd prob go to black/205 for a final polish, but considering the customer's budget and the overall condition of the car, I think they will be completely thrilled with the finish I'm getting in the 2 steps so far. Thanks for the input guys!
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Cut the oxidized off with a wool or foam pad.
Click to expand...



Great suggestion. This is where wool/rotary is your best friend to quickly cut through all that dead paint. And then DA for the final refinement.
 
A couple quick before/after, after the initial cut with orange/D300. The hood and decklid really need some wetsanding, but we will see if the customer wants to take it that far. The other panels have a few RIDS here and there but the hood and trunk are full of them. Already looking tons better though. If they don't want to wetsand I will hit the hood and trunk with MF/D300 to clean up the RIDS as much as I can without sanding. Then hit the whole thing with Optimum GPS for final polish/LSP.



celicabeforeafter.jpg




Not sure why the pic is posting so small. Will try to make it bigger when I have more time.



For now, bigger pic can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...0307192669.241879.105650322669&type=1&theater
 
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